Natural handle materials

V

vaquero57

Joined
Nov 12, 2000
Messages
131
I asked my problem to my friend Bruce Evans and I know he is rioght with his response but wondering about other peoples experiences. I have a hell of a time getting natural materials to not warp over time and peel away from the tang. My last knife I made out of 0-1 and a walnut handle with nickel silver pins epoxied in. After 3 weeks of hunting and sitting in our warm house at the very end of of the handle the wood separated a few thousandths from the tang from shrinkage and I can catch my fingernail on the tang. My colt peacemaker replica that I made custom purpleheart grips for and tung oiled them has the same problem. Bruce told me that everyone had problems and I am working on stabilizing but no luck yet. The handle on the above knife was soaked in oil based step saver brand wood sealing and protectant stain for 10 hours and I guess it did not work. What do you guys do short of buying already stabilized materials?

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" I am a shootist."
Clay Allison
" Does this mean we are bladists?"
Vaquero57
McAlpin Bladesmithing
 
Send your wood to Wood Stabilizing Specialists Int.

http://www.stabilizedwood.com/index2.shtml


Mike will do an EXCELLENT job with whatever you send him and at a very fair price. This is extremely cheaper than buying stuff from the supply houses. Also, you know exactly what grain pattern you're gonna get this way.

It just makes sense to get it done, instead of the head-ache and stress over whether or not you're gonna have a cracked or warped handle.

Just some thoughts.
Nick

[This message has been edited by NickWheeler (edited 12-22-2000).]
 
i score the areas on both the wood and steel. making sure to leave a flat around the edge. i use the two part epoxy from K&G its thick! also i couter sink the holes on the inside so theres plenty of surface area to bond. and then add a clamp on both ends while drying. one more thing to remenber is that it is cold out now so i have one all glued and clamped sitting next to the heater right now. so tomorrow morning i know the epoxy will be dry.

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Laurence Segal www.RHINOKNIVES.com
 
Wow Nick! That is good advice. The supply houses charge quite a bit for stabilized wood and if you do this, you do know just what you are getting or getting back rather.

If the wood is not stabilized or properly sealed, it may move on you. If you have ever worked with water buffalo, it will expand and contract at will.
 
Also make sure you sand and scrupulously clean the surfaces to be bonded together (metal and wood) immediately before using the epoxy. I do think stabilizing is probably the way to go on future knives I make however, considering the amount of time involved in finishing a natural wood handle it must be frustrating to watch it warp and pull away. -Guy Thomas
 
I give all my wood handles two coats of thinned (50%) Tung oil. This seals the wood before epoxy is put on.

BlacksmithRick
 
Rick-

Do you just thin it with paint thinner? or something else?

Where is Custer??? I'm actually in Winlock now, not Vancouver anymore.

Thanks
wink.gif

Nick
 
Rick, I rubbed 2-3 coats of tung oil in my pistol grips but did not use epoxy? They shrunk badly hanging in my room although I do have it hanging above a baseboard heater. (shame on me) What do you mean applying epoxy?

------------------
" I am a shootist."
Clay Allison
" Does this mean we are bladists?"
Vaquero57
McAlpin Bladesmithing
 
I never thought to mention what Bruce told me. Maybe you guys know about it and I have a kindergarten mentality on this. Bring the material in for about a week to the house and let it shrink up like it is going to. Then build your handle and when it goes outside it will expand a little insterad of shrinking and pulling away.

------------------
" I am a shootist."
Clay Allison
" Does this mean we are bladists?"
Vaquero57
McAlpin Bladesmithing
 
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