Natural Outlaw Review

nick681

Gold Member
Joined
Nov 22, 1999
Messages
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I thought I should post something instead of always asking questions of my fellow forumites so here is my first review.
As an Infantry Squad Leader in the First Infantry Division, I need a knife that I can depend on. My choice, after a lot of deliberation and lurking in the forums, was the Busse Natural Outlaw.
I have taken my Natural Outlaw to the field three times now and I can only say that it lives up to the "Nuclear Tough" standard.
The first trip to the field was running a station for "Individual Readiness Training", while the knife did not see much hard use I did chop some good size branches and a frozen tree stump between tests. This caused much damage to the surrounding foliage and only minimal damage to the edge. After some work with a ceramic rod from my sharpmaker I was able to get rid of the nicks in the edge.
The next test came during two rotations to the Combat Manuever Training Center in Hohenfels, Germany. This is one of the muddiest and wettest places in the world. My knigfe was wet and muddy for two weeks at time both times and showed no signs of corrosion on the exposed edge.
I used my knife to chop branches to build a hooch, pry open ammo crates, pound stakes with the butt end, chop through recovered commo wire and trip wire, and also opening the ocasional MRE. My Natrural Outlaw did all these tasks easily with no damage to the knife.
The crinkle coating also held up well, in fact better than any other coating I have ever had on a knife. Even after repeated use the worst damage to the coating is a "smoothing out" effect.
The Quilted Micarta Handle provides a secure yet comfortable grip even when muddy, cold and wet, the three prevailing conditions at CMTC. The quilted handle is a vast improvement over the handle on my old Steel Heart II. The only improvement I would make to the handle is subdued handle fasteners. I colored in mine bith a black marker.
In addition to field use I have pried open a locked file cabinet drawer and destroyed various items in the scrap metal and wood bins in the motor pool. The comment I hear the most is "I wouldn't do that with my knife!" to which I reply "You CAN'T do this with your knife"
The only drawback to the Natural Outlaw was the Cordura/Kydex Sheath. Mine is deteriorating rapidly. Somehow while mounted on my LBV a spot rubbed through the black trim aroung the edge and the metal gromets on the bottom of the sheath are getting corroded.
In addition to the durability of the sheath I think there are two design flaws in the sheath (at least for military carry on an LBV). First the whole sheath comes up when you draw the knife if you don't have it tied to your leg. While tying the sheat to your leg at the bottom may work for some people it hinders you if you need to remove your equipment in a hurry. This could be fixed by adding a piece of kydex to the belt loop as a stiffener. The second flaw is the outside pocket/pouch. I like the pocket and use it to carry all manner of things, however it need some improvement. The velcro is noisy and therefor untactical, in addition once it becomes muddy velcro does not work. A simple fastex buckle would fix this (I have always been taught not to bring up a problem unless you have a solution
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).

Overall I would give the Natural Outlaw and A+ and the Sheath a C-.

In my opinion the Natural Outlaw is the perfect Infantry Field Knife (possible future model name?
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). Performance, size, quality, and price put it light years ahead of the competition. Mine is now scratched, beat up, starting to look ugly,and I wouldn't trade it for anything.

Now all I need is the Folder.

Yours in Nuclear Toughness,

Nick


------------------
Arguing with a GRUNT is like wrestling with a pig. Everyone gets dirty and the little pig loves it.

The reason the U.S. Army is so successful in combat is that war is chaos; and the Army practices chaos on a daily basis

[This message has been edited by nick681 (edited 06-18-2001).]
 
nick:

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">After some work with a ceramic rod from my sharpmaker I was able to get rid of the nicks in the edge.</font>

Chips, dents or rolls? About how big?


<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">This could be fixed by adding a piece of kydex to the belt loop as a stiffener.</font>

Kydex isn't that strong, I have fractured kydex sheaths like than in the past because of a forceful draw.

Generally you are working along a mix between security and ease of draw. I have several sheaths that draw very easily but I can snap the sheath off of the knife with a quick wrist piviot. If the security is raised above this then it becomes difficult to draw the knife even with a full kydex construction, unless it is strapped to your leg.

Interesting comments about Velcro and the corrosion.

Nice job.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Now all I need is the Folder./</font>

Yes, you are not alone there.

-Cliff
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by nick681:
The comment I hear the most is "I wouldn't do that with my knife!" to which I reply "You CAN'T do this with your knife"

</font>

AMEN!!!!

Nice Review, I'm glad you took the time to share your observations with us.
You may want to contact the shop about the sheath, I'm sure they would want to know about it. There email address is info@bussecombat.com
Thanks again




------------------
Eric Isaacson
 
Excellent review Nick,

I appreciate the details included in your review. Thank you very much for taking the time to write it.

Jerry Busse
 
Fascinating review. I agree 100% about velcro. I learned in rescue work that muddy velcro straps do not hold. In my regular job I use my flashlight several times a day; I learned velcro fasteners do wear out. A good snap will last longer. (A Streamlight Poly-Stinger will not hold up as long as the standard Stinger. The Stinger XT is a tad longer than the std. Stinger, lacks the std. switch near the head, and will not fit the same leather sheath and still let you snap the flap.)

I am just learning to use surplus web gear in the woods, instead of the large pack/day pack choice. I am interested in the best sheath for inverted carry on suspenders. Quick access is great, but losing a knife is BAD.

Like "Grasshopper," just seeking knowledge...
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Lane
 
Nick,

Thanks for running that blade through its paces and posting the results out here for us. It's heartening to hear from the field that Busse blades will stand up to that level of use.

More importantly, thank you and those you train for standing on the frontline for all of us. I appreciate deeply your commitment which is too often overlooked and too seldom recognized by those here in the USA who are the direct beneficiaries of your efforts. Having been there, although not in many years and not at the level you have achieved, I do not forget.

Yours in nuclear gratitude,
Greg
 
Nice job, Nick. Very thorough field testing. I enjoyed your review very much.

Thank you--Will
 
Hey Nick, Drink a flippy for me.
I was in that hole 4 or 5 times myself.
23rd Engr. Bn. 74-77
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Chuck
 
Nick,
GREAT POST!!!!!!! I love to hear about a Busse being put through the paces. Your insight was great.
Thanks,
Andrew Pinchen
 
I am glad everyone liked my review and appreciate all the kind words. I really enjoy the forums and felt I should contribute.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2"> chips, dents, or rolls </font>

Cliff-

The damage to the edge on my NO was actually some of all three; chips, dents and rolls.

The chips and dents were fairly tiny only a milimeter or two, I was able to deal with them with my sharpmaker pretty easily. They were the result of my assault on the frozen tree stump, which got the worst of the exchange by far.

I did however put a pretty good roll/dent on the tip. I'm not sure what it was the result of. I haven't decided how to tackle the problem yet and I don't think the sharpmaker will be able to deal with it properly, especially since the convex side caught the worst of it. I may just send it back to Jerry to resharpen it. I'm not really worried since the damage is at the tip and doesn't affect the function.


I also agree with you on the sheath issue. I am interested in a sheath that offersw a balance between secuirty and ease of draw.

I am also concerned with replacing the knife in the sheath.,this is another problem with the stock sheath. Much of our training is at night and I have to be able to replace the knife by feel. as well as in a hurry or while doing one or more other things at once.

I am working on designing a sheath to fit my needs. The only problem will be finding someone to build it.

Lane

I don't carry my knives on on the suspenders of my LBV or allow my soldiers to either. If you have to replace your knife rapidly you can seriously injure yourself.

For civilian use however this may not be an issue. I think the best method for this would probably be something like a Bladerigger "Static Cord" setup where you have the knife and sheath on a "leash". You pull on ther knife and the whole thing moves to the length of the "leash" before the knife is drawn. This ensures the knife is safely away from you for both drawing and replacing the knife while still being handy.

I agree with you on the use of a snap versus velcro. A snap definitely works better and makes less noise, which is a big factor for me.

Chuck-

I will work on that flippy tonight
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Now I just have to decide what my next Busse purchase will be. Possibly a Natural Outlaw Variant.
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Yours in Nuclear Toughness and German Beer


Nick

------------------
Arguing with a GRUNT is like wrestling with a pig. Everyone gets dirty and the little pig loves it.

The reason the U.S. Army is so successful in combat is that war is chaos; and the Army practices chaos on a daily basis

[This message has been edited by nick681 (edited 06-21-2001).]
 
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