need .25 in x 3 in wide x 48 in long 1095

[DaNoog!]

I usually order from NJ Steel Baron but the shipping is craycray these days.
Anyone here on the West Coast or central US that has w2 or 1095 in these dimensions?
Apologies if this is posted somewhere Im not aware of.
Da Noog!

 

[Joseph Bandeko]

Jantz has got this https://knifemaking.com/products/1095-hi-carbon-steel-mill-finish?_pos=2&_sid=d56de7553&_ss=r
But it’s more expensive then at NJSB.
That’s all I know of, sorry I couldn’t be of more help.

 

[Richard338]

Jantz only has 36", Pop's has some 48", but only 2" wide. My guess is you're stuck with NJSB.

 

[fitzo]

Admiral has hot rolled 1095 bar in your dimensions but six foot bars. Look in the online blade steel shop.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Aldo (New Jersey Steel Baron) has it.

 

[DevinT]

What are you making with it?

Hoss

 

[Richard338]

What are you making with it?

Hoss

I figure it's either 1 big sword, or 96 lapel daggers...

 

[DaNoog!]

What are you making with it?

Hoss

I got a sort of commission from someone, no rush.. do it right.... stroke me a check when it's done kinda thing. I e of those few whose word is good for it.

It's the biggest sword I'll ever make. Lots of jewels

 

[DaNoog!]

Aldo (New Jersey Steel Baron)

Njsb is my go to for sure... but that shipping is pricey...Admiral may be ok but...I dunno.

 

[Taz]

They want 1095 for a large sword? I would go with 80CRV2, 8670, 5160 or something along those lines for more durability and easier heat treating?

 

[DaNoog!]

They want 1095 for a large sword? I would go with 80CRV2, 8670, 5160 or something along those lines for more durability and easier heat treating?

im about to learn something new today. tell us in what way is 80crv2 is easier than 1095 for heat treat? ive never worked with 8670 that i know of.

 

[Taz]

1095 needs a longer soak and is more picky about overshooting the temp and the grain growing. 80crv2 and 8670 are more forgiving about temps in heat treating and are often considered much tougher for a larger impact weapon.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

When possible, I make large swords out of 1075 or 1084.

 

[DaNoog!]

When possible, I make large swords out of 1075 or 1084.

10 series steels are all fairly similar in heat treat IIRC.. i can't imagine 80crv2 would be easier than 1095 to heat treat. Is taz correct?

 

[Tyson A Wright]

For what it's worth, Arms & Armor make their swords out of 6150 (and I seem to recall that Albion does too, but I'm not 100% sure of that). I have done a lot of fencing with A&A blunts (and a little cutting with their sharps), and know of many hundreds of other martial artists who've put far more miles on their A&As than I have. I can say that this steel can take a lot of bashing and banging and wear and tear. I don't know what steels the other big HEMA sword makers use, but this is at least one data point for a steel that has been used to make swords that actually see a lot of use.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

The closer to the eutectoid, the simpler the HT. Technically, 1084 has no soak time needed. 1075 and 1080, being slightly sub-eutectoid is similar in ease.
As the amount of carbon or other alloying increases, the need for longer soak times and more precise temperature control increases.
Simple 10XX steels don't present much trouble, but as the carbon percentage approaches 1% it requires more time to put the excess in solution and better temperature control.

Steels with sub-eutectoid carbon content and moderate chromium also HT fairly easily. These are the 4XXX and 5XXX series steels we use in knifemaking.