Need A Good Hammer

B

Bruise Lee

Joined
Aug 4, 2002
Messages
363
I just bought an inexpensive tool set set from Costco. Everything looked pretty decent except the hammer, which was a very basic old tech wood handled affair.

Since the only other hammers I have are from my dad and at least 50 years old, I think now would be a good time to upgrade to something more state of the art.

I noticed that some hammers now boast a graphite core. Is this going to offer a significant strength advantage? I play racquetball with a friend who has destroyed several graphite racquets.

What about all these claims of anti-shock/vibration technology?

What's a good weight for all around work? 16 oz.? 20 oz.?

I'm not a contractor. Just planning to use the hammer to hang pictures, remove nails, etc. Still I did manage to break the head off an old wooden hammer while working on my car!
 
There's a huge variety in hammers and, like everything else, the "best" one is determined by what you want to do with it.

I'd buy a bagful. Get a 22 ounce framing hammer or maybe a 16 or 18 ounce claw hammer for general carpentry (actually the claw hammer is probably a better idea as it is more versatile), an 8 ounce finishing hammer for hanging pictures and other light work, a rubber mallet for moving stuff into place without putting hammer marks on it, and a 2 pound engineer's hammer (like a short-handled sledge) for pounding stakes. I actually have a 4 ounce finishing hammer that I used to use on my model railroads that my wife uses for hanging stuff now.

Select the hammers by hefting them and choose the one that feels best - don't pay any attention to high tech features like titanium, carbon fibers. core materials, etc., as you are not going to use it enough for this to make a difference. If you can strike something or drive a nail with the hammer before buying you should do so. I've found some of the "never break" plastic handles to transmit a lot of the concussion to my hand - not comfortable when hammering a lot of nails. Stay away from the framing hammers with the cross-hatched striking surface if you prefer to keep the flesh on your thumb when you inevitably strike it with the hammer.
 
I like Estwing. But Plumb and other common brands are good to. I still have the figerglass hammer my Dad gave me when I was five years old, and use it regularly - I don't know what brand, the marking is long gone (Stanley?).

Working residential construction, some of the 'serious' carpenters had $100 hammers they ordered from somewhere. Titanium maybe?

Anyway, the thing about hammers is, they all work.

-Bob
 
Stanley makes a really nice hammer. They have one with a tuning fork in the handle that's supposed to lessen fatigue during use. My personal favorite- and I'd have to google it- is one that comes with a black handle and is labeled the "Death Stick." THAT one makes me laugh every time I think about it :D !
 
I like Estwings. They just keep on going.

I have a 16 oz. claw hammer for trim work, a 20 oz. "do it all" rip hammer that stays in my belt most of the time, and a 22 oz. framing hammer.

They've never let me down.

For the tasks you mentioned, I'd probably get a 16 oz. claw hammer. Maybe even a fancy leather grip...

leather_claw.jpg


http://www.estwing.com/
 
16 oz. is a nice, all-around weight it seems, but don't neglect a lighter hammer like an 8 oz. hammer for smaller tasks.
 
Still have my Estwings. They are indestructable, and the blue handles have all but fallen off. Hammer still fine though, also have that ergo Stanley graphite/nylon model. It's lasted through severe punishment, though I find the Estwings dont dent as easily.
 
What is the difference between a claw hammer and a rip hammer? Besides looks (one is curved, the other staight iirc), what funtion do they serve and how useful is each?
 
While I totally understand where you are coming from, honestly if you won't be using it that much I am sure the one you have will be fine. If you plan to do some major work that requires swinging a hammer for most of a day even just once then it is worth getting a better one. If it is just to hang an occasional picture then I bet you will never notice the difference.
 
Clint Simpson said:
What is the difference between a claw hammer and a rip hammer? Besides looks (one is curved, the other staight iirc), what funtion do they serve and how useful is each?
Click to expand...
From This Old House... "Although straight-claw hammers look more powerful and are better at prying, a curved-claw model is more compact and better at pulling nails."

The straight (or rip) claw is better IMO when you're framing or doing form work. Lots of times, you'll need to pry a board this way or even knock a notch out of a board. The straight claw shines in those jobs.

Here's another good site with just some basic description: http://www.hammernet.com/select.htm

SHS, nothing wrong with a Plumb. Our local Sears Outlet has tent sales periodically, and I picked up a Plumb 16 oz. curved claw with a nice ergo grip for about $7. Good hammer all around.
 
I have about 7 hammers. Although I love my wood handles, The one I reach for most is a plastic handle with a rubber grip. I used it in construction for a long time, and still use it around my house. It is a cheap "workforce " hammer. Although I'll probably buy an estwing next time out, with a rubber handle.
 
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