Need a simple, but good, sharpener- advice?

B

Bluecanoe

Joined
Mar 30, 2016
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Hey guys, so I've been using this to sharpen my knives:

Smith's PP1 Pocket Pal Multifunction Sharpener (http://www.amazon.com/Smiths-PP1-Po...d=1459379543&sr=8-11&keywords=knife+sharpener)

Thing is, I'm finally starting to get some actually decent knives (like my beloved Benchmade Triage), and every time I use this thing it makes the hairs stand up on the back of my neck. It just FEELS cheap.

I'm not ready (yet) for a complicated sharpening apparatus, but I feel like my knives deserve a better tool. Can you all give me some advice on the next logical step up from where I'm at?
 
A Sharpmaker was a great step up from my entry level stones. Even with my complete lack of knowledge.... I consistently get good edges with it and I learned a lot.
Next I'll be spending money on real stones and try to get serious about freehand sharpening, but I'm a big fan of the Sharpmaker for someone starting but who wants to get better and serious.
 
Run from the pull-through devises. They'll rip your edge off, scratch the blade sides, and never allow you to refine the apex.

How about a non-complicated sharpening apparatus? Check out KMEsharp dot com. Your Benchmade's will thank you for years to come.
 
Well first off, I will second bflying's tip on the KME--their stuff is awesome--if you are wanting to stay on the low end of the budget I recommend strongly the Work Sharp guided hand sharpener. It is really easy to get an edge reworked with the diamond plates, and is also enough to reset the bevels if you want--just use the coarse diamond plate. I really like the leather stropping plate--I have used it to resharpen almost any of my knives, and it has a great feel as you use it.
 
Wicked edge. It will help you learn about edge geometry and prary and secondary bevels and microbevels...........
 
Before Spending $500 on a guided system or getting a Sharpmaker that's really only good for keeping a sharp knife sharp, I would recommend getting a basic bench stone and freehand sharpening. It's been done for thousands of years this way and is a fairly simple process that most humans have more than enough mechanical skill to accomplish.

On the low cost side you have items as simple as the Norton India stone, a highly effective tool that will easily sharpen most knives. On the high side you have Waterstones and Diamond stones, they cost more but also offer more to the sharpener in terms of grit selection and sharpening ability.

There are lots of options so let's start by first getting to know what type of budget you have to work with and what method of sharpening you are most interested in?
 
Jason B. said:
Before Spending $500 on a guided system or getting a Sharpmaker that's really only good for keeping a sharp knife sharp, I would recommend getting a basic bench stone and freehand sharpening. It's been done for thousands of years this way and is a fairly simple process that most humans have more than enough mechanical skill to accomplish.

On the low cost side you have items as simple as the Norton India stone, a highly effective tool that will easily sharpen most knives. On the high side you have Waterstones and Diamond stones, they cost more but also offer more to the sharpener in terms of grit selection and sharpening ability.

There are lots of options so let's start by first getting to know what type of budget you have to work with and what method of sharpening you are most interested in?
Click to expand...

Wow, you guys are awesome!

I actually took Fish's advice and ordered a Work Sharp guided hand sharpener (after reading reviews on it and watching some videos), but I'd also like to learn how to do freehand sharpening. I actually started collecting knives when I was a little kid and my grandfather gave me one- I remember he always sharpened his by hand with a stone, so I'd like to learn that skill.
 
Bluecanoe, you are actually doing a version of free hand sharpening with the Work Sharp guided sharpener. Bing able to use stones to work on your edges is always a positive IMO--I have way more sharpening stuff than a normal person needs to have--and have more on the way right now :rolleyes: But...as far as stones go, I would highly recommend obtaining Diamond stones to work with--they will handle any steel and that is just not the case with some of the modern 'supersteels' I have a nice collection of beautiful Arkansas stones, but they don't touch some of my high Rockwell steel knives, The Work Sharp has diamond plates, which is a big reason I am a fan of it. Best of luck to you with all of your sharpening efforts!!!
 
Our own Jackknife on freehand sharpening:

[youtube]SEMLu8e34ck[/youtube]

and with improvised sharpening methods:

[youtube]Twduvki8m90[/youtube]
 
bflying said:
Run from the pull-through devises. They'll rip your edge off, scratch the blade sides, and never allow you to refine the apex.

How about a non-complicated sharpening apparatus? Check out KMEsharp dot com. Your Benchmade's will thank you for years to come.
Click to expand...

I would agree but not for the pull through shown below, which leaves a polished refined edge and allows the user to refine every part of the cutting edge including the apex itself.
The angles indicated on the degree dial are correct and this tool is adjustable from 16 to 44 degrees.

http://edgeru.com
DSC00104.JPG


If you doubt this statement I would be happy to send you one of my bench ERU's and you can prove it to yourself.

Regards, Fred
 
bflying said:
Run from the pull-through devises. They'll rip your edge off, scratch the blade sides, and never allow you to refine the apex.

How about a non-complicated sharpening apparatus? Check out KMEsharp dot com. Your Benchmade's will thank you for years to come.
Click to expand...

I will add a +1 to the KME. It's been my primary sharpener since I got it. It's a great system. I also have a KO Work Sharp but that only comes out for any heavy lifting, everything else is done with the KME.
 
The Spyderco Sharpmaker is the way to go.
I have the same Smiths sharpener and mostly use the diamond stick on it but the pull thru part works in a pinch.

I really don't get the whole tearing your blade off thing.
With correct pressure and angle these work ok.
 
I have to say that I have never used sharpmaker and I am not taking a shoot at it. But just by imagination, it seems it is more difficult to maintain a consistent angle with sharpmaker than with a stone. With a stone, the other hand can be put on the blade to guide the sharpening, but with sm it is basically one hand job.

Am I entirely wrong?
 
Couple things

1) Benchmade uses a 60 degree inclusive grind. The Smiths pull through is a 45 degree inclusive so it will be removing metal from the blade at first and not really sharpening it.

2) Benchmade sells pull through carbide sharpeners made by Redi-Edge. They aren't going to leave your blade razor sharp but with a light touch will touch them up nicely.

I keep a Redi-Edge with me but it's only for field repairs, I sharpen with a Lansky Master's Edge to hair shaving sharpness.
 
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