Need a Spyderco CPM 20CV consultation

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Terry_H

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Jun 2, 2023
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Hi members, I'm going to buy a spyderco endura with CPM 20CV,what you can say about heat threatment on this steel from spyderco, is it ok? How is it in comparsion with 20cv from benchmade or kershaw?
 
One of the few I haven’t tried from spyderco. In my experience they crush heat treatment. I find they usually get more out of steel Performance than the other two listed. In my experience
 
I have been carrying a 20CV Endura for over a month now and really enjoy it. I had a rocky experience with it a couple of weeks ago, which I described here:

Post in thread 'EDC XIII Which knife or knives are you carrying today?' https://www.bladeforums.com/threads...-are-you-carrying-today.1573161/post-21958082

Search around the forums and you will see several discussions of 20CV being brittle and chippy, often sustaining similar damage to what was inflicted on my Endura.

To be clear, I damaged my Endura by using it on a task for which it was not intended. I have since resharpened the edge, and given a couple of extra touch-ups, and have had good results. It's surprisingly easy to sharpen and so far it appears to hold a good edge during normal use.

I have never owned another knife with 20CV so I can't compare against other companies, but I am generally confident in Spydercos ability to deliver good steel.
 
I have a Manix2LW in 20CV and I've been pleased with it. I'm sure Spyderco's heat treat is spot on. Now for my purely anecdotal non-expert comparison to the only other 20CV knife I have, which is Hinderer, who's 20CV heat treat has been deemed by millennial garage testing knife experts to be garbage. When performing certain tasks (namely carving a branch into a walking stick on hikes), I've noticed that the Spyderco edge does actually feel more brittle. I've never had it chip, but I have had the feeling that it could be chippy if I pushed it too hard (again, just a feeling, purely anecdotal). This leads me to believe that the Spyderco is likely ran harder, especially since Hinderer is known for running his on the low end. This would be beneficial for EDC slicing and edge retention, but honestly for my uses as a hiking knife I don't mind the softer Hinderer (perhaps the guy knows a thing or two about knives over the internet "experts" 🤔 ).

In the end I'd say if you like the knife, go for it. I don't think you'll be disappointed with Spyderco 20CV (or their heat treat on any steel for that matter). As with any steel it's all about weighing the attributes vs. the limitations. For the record, my Spyderco 20CV has served me well on many outdoor adventures, no complaints here.

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Your heat treatment from reputable manufacturers has less to do with your experience than you think. It’s like worrying about the same octane gas from different gas stations. If you trust the brand, trust the heat treat. Benchmades 20cv and Spydercos 20cv won’t show you an objective difference on heat treat. Things like blade geometry and grind matter more.
 
I have repeatedly chipped Spyderco 20CV/M390 (Colorado made). So for me, it's too hard. But then, I've chipped Spyderco 4V as well, so I might not be the typical user.

It's optimal for rope and cardboard cutting tests .... until you hit a bracket.
 
There have been numerous tests conducted on the hardness of Spyderco knives on YouTube, consistently demonstrating their exceptional heat treatment. While it's important to acknowledge the occasional manufacturing error or possibility of receiving a flawed product, perfection is an elusive goal for any company. Nevertheless, when it comes to Spyderco and their range of steel options, you can generally have peace of mind knowing that their heat treatment is consistently reliable.

Regarding the 20cv steel specifically, it's worth noting that it may not be considered an exceptionally strong steel when compared to others. However, its standout characteristics lie in its impressive corrosion resistance and remarkable edge retention.
 
I’ve enjoyed my Spyderco and 20CV, but all of mine have came from Golden. Spyderco typically does well, not matter the manufacturers site, as other hav mentioned.

I can say I don’t prefer 20CV or it’s analogs to other steels. I’d much rather have Cruwear, 4V, etc.
 
I like 20cv but have found it takes a few sharpenings to really shine. Not sure if it's just easy to burn the edge from factory or not but after a few goes you get a really different edge.
 
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Judging by my Spyderco Mule in 20CV, the steel is fantastic. Spyderco would hardly deviate from tired-and-true heat treatments.
 
M390/20CV/204p is definitely not a "tough" steel from everything I've read. I don't use my knives super hard often, but if I do, I choose something that has better edge stability, like CPM-3V or CPM-M4, or even CTS-XHP.

Also note, Spyderco tends to make thin, slicy blades, which also affects edge stability.

I've also found many other companies tend to run M390 etc on the soft side, possibly for this reason. The best examples as far as edge retention (and therefore correct heat treat) have been 204p from Spyderco (Southard) and Cheburkov M390.

It comes down to the right tool for the job, which means the right steel and edge geometry.
 
I have a 20cv Watu from Spyderco and it is quite thin at 2.5mm I believe. Slices like a laser and the needle like tip has been tough enough for my everyday carry. I have not put side loading on edge but I do use this knife more than any other. I think Spyderco has their treatment down to a perfect edc balance
 
That is a thin blade with slightly brittle steel. It is a slicer, not a hard user.
 
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