Need advice for Re-Profiling with the Lansky 70-grit hone

T

tinnitus

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Jun 28, 2022
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Hello all, I’m looking for a quick lesson on how to re-profile the damaged bevels/edges on a basic set of kitchen knives. I’ve abused them for years, dragging them roughly through one of those $4 yellow pocket sharpeners every week or two. This shows in the form of visibly ragged edges

What I have to work with is the Lansky Deluxe kit with 5 hones (non-diamond) including the extra coarse 70 grit black hone for re-profiling. I’d like to make them all smooth and 20 degrees.

YouTube is bristling with various how-vids demonstrating coarse (red) to extra fine (yellow), and stropping, but I’ve not found anything about how to use the extra coarse stone, how hard to bear down, how many passes, etc., etc.

Can someone please recommend a video or some specific instructions on how I might restore/create those edges with the black hone - without ruining my knives?

Thanks.

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None of the videos I've viewed address the black hone beyond a quick mention... "that's the one you use for re-profiling." Then they go into great detail about all the others.
 
tinnitus said:
None of the videos I've viewed address the black hone beyond a quick mention... "that's the one you use for re-profiling." Then they go into great detail about all the others.
Click to expand...
One piece of advice i can give you is, take your time, not too much pressure and keep inspecting your progress. Make time your friend.
 
I prefer to use a sawing action on the extra course, course and medium stones. You want to apply enough pressure for the stone to bite. Keep the stone lubricated and go.

The extra course stone doesn’t require and special instructions. Use it on the edge until you feel a burr form and flip to the other side. Deburr that side and repeat.
 
I got into sharpening using the same Lansky Deluxe kit and went down the same learning path with knives like this. So I'm familiar with it.

It'll take a long time - likely very long (hours) with large blades like kitchen knives. But the technique and use of the coarse hone isn't any different than with the finer hones. You'll get a sense of how it's working as you go. Resist the temptation to press too hard in trying to speed the grinding pace up. Let the grit do the work. If your hands/fingers are getting very tired, very quickly, that's a sign you're pressing too hard. Too much pressure in grinding will cause the blade to twist/flex away from the hone and might also make the clamp shift or slip in its position. So pressing too hard will create many more issues than it'll solve.

Make sure to keep the stone well-lubricated. The combination of a very small working abrasive surface area, and the heavy grinding being done with lots of metal removal, means the hone will clog very fast if it isn't kept lubricated. Grinding becomes exponentially slower if the hone gets clogged.
 
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I'm no expert, but I started relearning to sharpen using a Gatco system very similar to the Lansky. Mine's diamond, so it's a little different in that regard. With that said;
1. If possible, start with a forgiving steel, in a blade you don't really care about. That way, if you ruin it, you can learn from it and move on.
2. Take your time. You can always take more metal off, but it's really hard to put it back on. So you want enough pressure to abrade the steel, but you don't want to grind it hard.
3. Keep your stones lubricated. Oil is cheap.
 
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