Need advice from you hogs...

T

THE BARON

Joined
Aug 18, 2006
Messages
164
I am on the verge of purchasing my first Busse knife.. . Woohoo!

She is a big fat FBM that has been stripped but not polished. I plan on using her in the field a bit and am somewhat concerned about oxidation damage, pitting etc to the blade.

I spoke with someone who suggested spraying WD-40 or something similar on the blade to prevent damage.

I guess my question is: Does anyone have experience with a stripped blade? Did you encounter any problems? What do you do for protection etc? Will polishing the blade help at all??

I appreciate any input you wise ol' hogs can give a young pig.

Thanks!
 
Watermelon juice will stain a stripped blade if left on it for an hour or so. Gotta go get my scotchbrite pads out.

Food-prep seems to be the biggest culprit. Same blade - hacked on some wood, washed it off a few hours later. No ill effects. Fruit juice in general is pretty acidic. I used my GW-LE to chop up a cantalope a week ago - no problems b/c I washed it off right away.

My thin-NICK has a multicolored stain on the blade that goes away when oiled. Not sure what it is. Sort of like the look of a drop of oil on a darkened puddle. That multi-colored look. Disappears with some mineral oil and not an oxidation stain by any means, but I oil it more than I did my Henkel.
 
A quick wipe down with WD40 will be good enough, probably more than enough. INFI will oxidize, but not like anything else I have ever seen. It will get a bit of red rust that will usually easily buff off with some fine steel wool and then it leave a black patina. I have yet to have any bare INFI, double cut or satin finished, really rust and pit like some steels will do.
 
All my INFI ends up satin and no ill effects yet. I do not put anything on them but simply clean them with warm soap and water after use. :)
 
Blood will also cause the blade to stain if left long enough...:eek:

Easily removed by light buffing though.



Dennis in MA said:
Watermelon juice will stain a stripped blade if left on it for an hour or so. Gotta go get my scotchbrite pads out.

Food-prep seems to be the biggest culprit. Same blade - hacked on some wood, washed it off a few hours later. No ill effects. Fruit juice in general is pretty acidic. I used my GW-LE to chop up a cantalope a week ago - no problems b/c I washed it off right away.

My thin-NICK has a multicolored stain on the blade that goes away when oiled. Not sure what it is. Sort of like the look of a drop of oil on a darkened puddle. That multi-colored look. Disappears with some mineral oil and not an oxidation stain by any means, but I oil it more than I did my Henkel.
Click to expand...
 
My FBM LE and my stripped Ruck got stains from chopping deciduous saplings/branches. So the tree sap did something. Soap and water did NOT remove the stains, nor prevent them from developing.

It's a Busse, use it!
 
I was told to use Renaissance Wax, very lightly applied on my SRKWs stripped M6. Should work for INFI I am assuming...
 
resinguy said:
My FBM LE and my stripped Ruck got stains from chopping deciduous saplings/branches. So the tree sap did something. Soap and water did NOT remove the stains, nor prevent them from developing.

It's a Busse, use it!
Click to expand...

How did the Georgia Mud work on the Ruck Blade ? :D

Or the Georgia vegetation work out on it ?:D
 
Worst staining I've gotten was on a satin LrMS, after an evening at Fogo's, the next morning the blade had the most interesting blue patina, the INFI had soaked up some of the fat ?

Soap and water no help, tried toothpaste no luck, when I got home a little semi-chrome fixed it right up.

Most of the stains I see are coming from cooked meat.
 
Keep in mind where people are posting from... If you live in Houston, the humididty is definitely a factor. INFI will rust here if not protected.

I prefer satin and double cut blades, so I know that I have to do a minimal amount of maintenance to keep them looking good. Clean after any hard use, then either oil the blade (this has to be done every few weeks) or use Ren Wax (which will last essentially forever or until used hard again.)

I think polishing it would help some, but if it's going to be a real user, get a 10 dollar jar of ren wax and don't sweat it.

Of yeah, and as the guys above said, if it does start to oxidize, it is pretty easy to sand off. The knife would have to be neglected for a very long time before serious pitting resulted...
 
From what I'm hearing it sounds like there would be quite an upkeep involved. I am usually in the field for a few days at a time, and won't always necessarily have the means to tend to my blade.

I wonder what I should do?

Does anyone know of a best-of-all-worlds metal cleaner that you use on your uncoated user blades???


Jimmyjones - What exactly is this "semi-chrome?"
 
Oh, and I've got another question too!

Is there a difference between a "stripped blade" and one that comes satin-finished from the factory in terms of resistance or vulnerability to wear / damage??

Would both blade types experience the same problems or issues with blade staining and/or oxidation?
 
THE BARON said:
Oh, and I've got another question too!

Is there a difference between a "stripped blade" and one that comes satin-finished from the factory in terms of resistance or vulnerability to wear / damage??

Would both blade types experience the same problems or issues with blade staining and/or oxidation?
Click to expand...

The little imperfections under the coating of a "stripped blade" will make it more vulnerable than a satin finish from the shop. The CG blades will have grind marks and other small valleys and pits that will hold moisture more readily...
 
I carry a tuf-cloth when out for more than a day or two, and use it when I get home otherwise (if needed). I just give the blade a wash in soapy water, or wipe with a damp rag, let it dry then wipe it over with the tuf cloth. Never fails. It seems to give good protection in storage and for light use. Heavy use will take the coating off.

Rick.
 
THE BARON said:
From what I'm hearing it sounds like there would be quite an upkeep involved. I am usually in the field for a few days at a time, and won't always necessarily have the means to tend to my blade.

I wonder what I should do?

Does anyone know of a best-of-all-worlds metal cleaner that you use on your uncoated user blades???


Jimmyjones - What exactly is this "semi-chrome?"
Click to expand...

simichrome.gif


Happich Simichrome Polish - premier metal polish in the world.
Shines and brightens all metals including chrome, brass, bronze, silver and gold.
Comes in a squeezable tube. Keep your metal polished and looking new.

http://www.hirschauto.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=27&Product_ID=58&CATID=15

But I disagree about the amount of upkeep, I switched from carbon steel to stainless, traded upkeep for chips and broken tips, then I found INFI, no matter how badly I neglected it ( I left a wet FBM (coated !) in the sheath for days, it was embarrassing :o), looked like rust and crap everywhere, wiped right off, some of the real ugly stuff along the edge needed a scotch pad. But cleaned up good as new.

Jerry should sell shinny INFI coins folks can abuse, leave out in the rain, soak in salt water ....... just to build confidence in how impervious INFI is compared to other high end steels. I've had 420, 440C, ATS-34 and cpm-154 tarnish up worst than INFI, at the same time under the same conditions.

But, none of it was ever more than a surface issue, no pits.
 
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