Need advice on sanding Ti. and anodizing

J

Jackal

Joined
Oct 5, 1998
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1,830
I've taken in a couple Cold Steel Arc Angel bali's for anodizing. The first came out great without issue. The second has a more rough satin finish and after anodizing deep purple, you could see in the fine sand lines at the right angle that the color was off or non-existent due to the many angles throwing the appearance off. I'm sure you experienced makers know what I'm referring to. Looks a little like pitted and lightly ozidized aluminum sometimes does.

I consulted a knowledgeable Ti. anodizing vet and he basically agrees with the assessment that it is a surface finish issue. Regardless I am ordering some cold method multi-etch and niobium anode before reattempting.

In the mean time, I think the best course of action in surface prep would be to wet sand the handles. Only thing is I've never sanded on Ti. and am not sure which grit would be best for final outcome / appearance. I know that torch coloring Ti. can put off vaporized vanadium which is bad, but is the Ti. dust any more harmful than steel? If so, will a regular 3M mask from Lowes suffice?

Thanks for any advice / tips guys.
 
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I would think that any fine particulate filter mask would be fine, just make sure you wear eye protection as well. I also like to wear ear plugs when creating lots of dust. As far as what grit to start at, try your finest # first and work backwards.

For anodizing Ti, I tried this once about 5 years ago and it is suprisingly easy
http://www.popsci.com/diy/article/2005-06/titanium-technicolor

And you can drink your electrolyte after!


-Xander
 
for a nice even orangepeel finish get a nice big wire wheel for your buffer and go to town on the handle (it makes all the scratch patterns blend nicely )

get some mag wheel etching/cleaner (not jsut plain cleaner ) wash the handles with it and then do your anodizing
 
lol about drinking it.

and to think I spend $200 on the mini anodizer http://www.reactivemetals.com/
bummer!

any was I find that you can polish. satin. or beatblast. no problem
just make sure they are clean (I boil the parts)before anodizing
and use the right amoun of tsp and destiled wather.

I have a question to? If you don't mind,
for any body,
what type of wire you use to hang the parts?

best regards
 
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Most plating and anodizing shops I know of use either aluminum or stainless wire.


-Xander
 
Thanks for the help guys. First of all I am using a limited, but lab grade power source...no cola needed. Using 5% aqueous solution TSP / distilled water. Also have some multi-etch coming.

I just need to hand sand the parts, no need for power tools here except for maybe some polishing.

As far as anodes, you only want titanium or niobium to be submerged. This can be purchased from Reactive Metals in 12" min. lengths in several gauges / grades / hardness
for a buck or two I believe.

Now...anyone agree that 800 grit wet/dry would be a good start?
 
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