Need advice on surefire lights

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Sep 13, 2007
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I want to buy a surefire flashlight for working use. Apart from the normal flashlight tasks close up one of the primary uses is going to be seeing down into the bottom of steel grain bins that range from 40 to 60 feet down.

Will one of the compact models such as the L2 or Outdoorsman be able to do this? I dont need extreme illumination but enough to ensure the bin and the auger is completley empty. I am looking for a model that could be clipped in my pocket.

in the five years I have worked there we have gone through countless 20 - 30 dollar huge plastic lights... quite frankly im sick of it. these lights dont last long with those huge 9 volt batteries and we are lucky to make it thru one before the plastic casing and bulb breaks.

Which brings me to another important point. I need a light that can take a bit of a bashing. for one to two hundred dollars I need this light to way outlast its replacements.

Thanks
-Otto
 
Another thing, are there any surefire lights that would not be good for my needs listed above?
 
I'm not nearly as current on the lights on the market as some others who will offer their input. However, I wouldn't limit myself to Surefire. There are many other lights which cost less and perform just as well. I'm not trying to discourage you from Surefire, I really like mine, just encouraging you to keep your options open.

I'd certainly consider LEDs if I were you. The two lights you mentioned can accommodate the tasks you anticipate.
 
I'd suggest you look for LED lights, filaments can still be fragile.

However I'll go on to say that Fenix lights give you more power, more options at about half the price.
 
I have a G-2 but those lights give 1 HOUR battery life ! I bought a Pelican LED 3330 with the same batteries ,half the brightness [but still a lot] and battery life of 4 hours full light then gradually dropping over many hours.
 
Get a Surefire E2L Outdoorsmen. I have it and you will never need a new light, I guarantee it. Goodluck.
 
g2 led would be a good choice. the battery life is longer than with the incandescent model.


any light with greater than 30-40 lumens should do nicely. just depends on how much you are willing to spend.
 
I find myself using a Surefire U2 for almost everything now. The adjustable intensity keeps me from having to carry 2 lights. For close work in a dark place, 125 lumens is just too much, but for illuminating something a good ways out there, you need some power. The U2 fits the bill either way. It's priced a little higher than what you specified, but worth a look. I completely agree about the LED, too. Incan. just doesn't give the same battery life.

Just MHO, YMMV as always. :thumbup:
 
Get a Surefire E2L Outdoorsmen. I have it and you will never need a new light, I guarantee it. Goodluck.

+1. Make sure you get the new version with the CREE LED. It will emit a constant level of light for 9 hours on one set of batteries. I use the Surefire E2L on walks at night without worrying about using up the batteries.
 
Had a surefire G2 , it was a good light for homedefense to keep w/ your handgun in a night stand but it only last about 45min ~ 60min & thats not good enough to work with everyday since the batteries will cost you about $8.00 an hour :eek: I own 2 pelican lights , these lights are super bright & tough as nails ! Very good quality.
 
I need a light that can take a bit of a bashing.

I'll recommend the E2L outdoorsman as well. This light should fill your needs perfectly. Its large clip allows it to be clipped to your cap as well. As others said, get the latest generation ones that use the Cree LED.
 
Take a look at Fenix lights. They make some great lights that take AA or AAA as well as Cr123 batteries.
 
I'm surprised no one has mentioned the L1. I have more than a few lights, including an HDS U60XR; a plethora of ARCs; Surefire L2, G2, 6P, some weapons lights, and the new Surefire L1.

With your job description the L2 might not be the best fit. The L2 is a great light, but it puts out a wall of light with no real hotspot. You'll get a lot of backscatter/reflection from the dust floating in the air.

The new L1 has almost the same output, but a much tighter hotspot. You'll have no problems looking to the bottom of the grain bins. It uses 1 battery so it's short, and it's got great regulation and mucho runtime. The combination of momentary push or twist constant-on is simple and foolproof.

I love my HDS, but for your description, I think the momentary pushbutton on the L1 is a better option. You can keep the L1 hanging around your neck and use the pushbutton one-handed. Twistys are almost always a two-handed deal.

I've seen some spotty quality control with Fenix. And they are so smooth that you about have to wrap them with grip tape to not drop them while turning on or off. I really think you would do better to spend a little more for the L1 and NEVER have buyers remorse.

Did I mention I like my L1? If you're still hesitant about the price, try to find one at a brick and mortar that will let you take it into a darkened room. If for some reason, you just don't like it after you buy it, I'll buy it for $100! I need another one.
 
I have a Surefire E2e , and although it is a good torch , it does not compare on price or performance with my latest purchase - a Fenix L2D. this Fenix is POWERFUL , and it runs on AA batteries , and should be just what you need.
 
I have a Surefire E2e , and although it is a good torch , it does not compare on price or performance with my latest purchase - a Fenix L2D. this Fenix is POWERFUL , and it runs on AA batteries , and should be just what you need.

I have a G2 and a G3 but I really love the Fenix lights. I had a L1T (not version 2) and thought highly about that light. So much so I bought a P3D. I gave the L1T to my wife to keep in her pocketbook and I EDC the P3D. Love this light. The L1T runs on NiMH AA's and the P3D runs on 2 123A batteries.

KR
 
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