Need advice using Shapton Glass

teudy

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Oct 20, 2015
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I've been freehanding it for about 10 months. Started with DMT Diasharps in course and fine, along with a medium Spyderco. I practiced quite a bit and was pretty satisfied with the results. By satisfied, I'm good with push cutting phonebook paper with the grain and slicing across.

After spent time on this forum, I was hot to try the Shaptons. As much as I try, I can't seem to properly apex my edges. This sends me back to the fine DMT or medium Spyderco to apex.

What am I doing wrong? Got the 500, 2000 and 6000 stones. Just using trailing strokes on the 6K. The edges don't suck, can slice with grain, but I feel there's improvment to be had.

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Something I am even guilty of is using too much pressure with my Glass stones. Like a diamond stone it is always best to use very light pressure with the Glass stones otherwise everything you don't want to happen, happens. With the correct amount of pressure you will feel like you are almost floating over the stone yet you can feel the abrasive grabbing the steel. It's a very smooth but aggressive action.

Starting with the 500 you should be able to get an edge that easily slices paper and with good burr removal effortlessly shave arm hair. You must pass this stage before any progression is possible.

I actually just sharpened my Native 5 S110V on the SG500, I was having trouble with my scratch pattern and burr when I realized I was using too much pressure. I eased back on the pressure and with a few consistent strokes I established a very uniform scratch pattern and was able to reduce the burr to almost nothing.
 
Thanks Jason. This sounds right and I'll dull up a knife to practice on tonight.

Being heavy handed plagued me when I first started. You're saying lighter than the DMT? Or maybe more consistent?

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About the same as a DMT plate, you can be more aggressive with the 500 and lower Shapton stones but they too will beneifit from the light use of pressure when finishing a blade.

I imagine it like I am just barely breaking surface tension of the water to make contact with the stone. After that I simply let the sound and feel guide me.

With the Shaptons it's kinda like a diamond plate in negative feedback. If you push too hard you will stick to the stone or have a very coarse feeling like it's really digging into the steel. You can also get heavy loading and a slippery feel to the stone surface which also indicates too much pressure and in some cases not enough water.
 
I don't have any Glass Stones, but I've been eyeing them.

I have the formerly recommended 3 stone Nubatama set. I find that, on the 1k speckled and the 5k pink stone, it's really easy to round over the bevel, or to just not get it sharp. Waterstones have their own technique, that I'm apparently not very good at. I've considered getting rid of mine several times because I no longer use them.

I find that a hard abrasive, like a diamond plate, or a vitreous stone (SiC, or AlO2), or true ceramic seems to work much better for me. It's probably just my lack of exposure and relative lack of skill with waterstones. Sometimes I can get a screaming incredible edge from the 1k and 5k. Other times it's just a wasted sharpening session with poor results.

I think it comes down to angle and pressure control, which are always a challenge with any sharpening medium. I think these two are much more important with waterstones than with harder abrasives. That's my working theory at the moment.

Brian.
 
You would probably like the glass stones, about as close to a spyderco ceramic as a waterstone will get.
 
Spent some time with the SG 500 and 2000 this afternoon. I tried to find my zen and got slightly better results. Will keep at it a lil longer.

I hear ya Brian, after buying three SG stones and a couple Atomas, I can almost get results as good as my DMT six inch combo. And it only takes me three time as long!

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Keep documenting your adventures. I've been eyeing some Shapton stones and really want to learn to free hand. I've had improving success using a Worksharp guided system, the angle blocks have been great in helping me build some muscle memory to keep a consistent angle. But I've been on the fence between a guided system like the Lansky or learning to freehand. I'm a new knife maker and completed my first knife last week, I learned a lot and I worked pretty hard to get a really nice edge on her. It push cuts regular paper with the grain but it's not the cleanest cut... I think I can do better.
 
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