need advise a few questions.

[divewize]

Good morning fom the chilly North east.

many thanks on my bolster issue. I did use one pin and some devcon plastic steele all came out well.

anyway on to other things.

Ive never done any full tang work except wire wrap with full soldered or welded guards. Ive just found out what a pain it is to get scales to match bolsters esp since this project has a curved handle.

also I noticed the bolsters swelled a bit after I hammered the pin (file work Yuk).

OK short of ruining another set of scales I was thinking of cutting the scale back a bit and putting in a small spacer between the scales and bolster. I can get plastic engraving stock localy.

so if I decide to use the spacer whats the proper way to fit it?

Do I put the scales and spacers on together or Do I attach scale then slide the spacer in the slot? also is the spacer just epoxied?


2) im putting together some Kitchen knives for xmas presents, Ill be using diamond wood for scales ( I have 4 one quarter sheets of 3/8 to use in 4 diff colors)

since I have no grinder at the moment I will use pre hardend blanks and im wondering if I should just do the shaped scales like most commercial knives have Or should I add SS bolsters? If I add the bolsters Ill have to spot aneal the blade where ill need to drill for pins, does 303 SS make good fittings?


lastly I will be using mosaic pins That I made last week (first time, they came out fine)
whats the best way to cut pins? Hacksaw? I first used a dremel with a cutoff wheel but it got way too hot and melted the epoxy.


thats it for now I welcome and need the help.

great site great craftsman.

"John"

 

[L6steel]

One trick to get the scales to mate with the bolsters is to use epoxy with pigment in it, usually black pigment. When finished it looks like a spacer. If you don't have the pigment you can buy a jar of it for around $5 from most knife suppliers. It lasts for ages cause you use so little at a time. I bought a jar of red and a jar of black 5 or 6 years ago and haven't gotten half way thru it yet.
Square up the bolster end of the scales and prep the backs of them and the scale end of the bolsters and the tang and then tape up the bolsters and blade. Mix enough epoxy and pigment to attach one scale. I use an acid brush to apply it and a popsicle stick to mix it. Put a thin coat on both surfaces and then put the scale onto the tang and slide it up to the bolster leaving about 1/16" between them. hold it in place with some spring clamps. Spring clamps provide ample pressure while not over doing it and squeezing the epoxy out. Set the knife aside and let the epoxy set up over night. Drill the pin holes thru the scale thats already attached. Align and clamp the opposite scale to the tang and drill the pin holes. Remove the unattached scale and lightly sand the back of it to deburr the holes you just drilled. Clean the scale, the tang and the pins you'll be using. Push 2 of the pins thru the fixed scale and tang till about 1/8" is exposed on the bare side of the tang. Now you're ready to attach the second scale. Mix up some more epoxy and pigment, apply it to the tang and bolster end, scale back and end, fit the scale on and then tap the pins thru till an equal amount is sticking out both sides and then clamp up with spring clamps. Have a clean rag handy to wipe away most of the excess epoxy but be careful not to wipe too much around the bolster scale joint or you can end up with a gap or dip in the epoxy. If this does happen you can fill it in with more epoxy/pigment mix but if you're careful you won't need to.
Whew, didn't mean to sound like a know it all or like I was talking down to you. Just wanted to make sure I answered the question thoroughly!

2- I wouldn't worry about bolsters on the kitchen knives. They serve no real purpose other than cosmetic, plus they add weight to the knife. You can do some fancy work on the ends of the scales like Neil Blackwood does on some of his fixed blades. Instead of blunt ends, the scales can be shaped very creatively. Adds a real nice touch to the blade without the hassle or weight of bolsters.

3-Best thing to cut mosaic pins with is a metal cutting bandsaw, lol. But since you must not have one, you're right with the hack saw. Might want to even try a small tubing cutter if you have one on hand. If it works it would even taper the ends slightly so the pins would go into the holes easier.

Hope all the gibberish helps ya some!
Take care John and keep grinding!!

 

[peter nap]

I try to put a bevel on both scales and bolsters and grind the edges after they are put together. There are a lot of ways to get the bevel, most a pain on smaller stuff. The method I use if both are not straight and square is to use a safe edge, three cornered file. Place whatever you are working on on a flat surface and use the file, safe edge down, to cut the angle. Thake the matching piece and turn it over on the flat area and do the same thing.

File until you have a knife edge along the top and no matter what shape it is, the two will match.

 

[indian george]

John where in the Northeast are you. I am in Mass.

 

[divewize]

Gentleman,

thank you very much!! great info , A Big thanks To L6steel.

a question if you will be so kind with regards to the epoxy spacer deal.

Ok, is the point of using the colored epoxy to act as a spacer for both the back of the scale and between scale and bolster??

If so do the scales have to be fully finished or can more shaping be done when all is set up and hardend?

will the epoxy shine up with final buffing or will it go Matte?

is this a common technique or is it just for problem solving/

BTW Indian George Im in upstate NY, Albany area.


mucho again