Need Bladesmith for Custom Work

J

joeG26er

Joined
Mar 29, 2000
Messages
297
I would like to get price quotes from Makers to make my design a reality.
Also want a multi-position kydex sheath to go with it.

Also, suggestions on handle / blade material.
I was thinking of black linen micarta and something like a CPM440V but more chip resistant.

thefixed_blade.jpg


Please let me know
Thanks


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Well, I just got back, so I figured I would answer your question in the other post, over here. I would go with CPM-3V because it is more resistant to chipping, even though it does not hold an edge as well. Since this is intended as a fighter, it will need that. If you want it do be better for day-to-day use, one of the other CPM steels should be good. 440V is intended to be mroe stainless, but has less toughness and wear resistance, so 420V might be better if stainlessness isn't that important. While it doesn't include 420V and 440V, Crucible has a chart covering their other steels:
http://www.crucibleservice.com/coldftol.htm

--JB

P.S., anyone know where there is a similar chart that includes 420V and 440V?

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e_utopia@hotmail.com
 
Here is the url for all Crucible steels. Fact is, that is a pretty short blade so almost any decent knife steel will work. There are a couple things about that drawing that are a bit Escher-ish is their look. The spine runs from a flat to a false edge, if I'm not mistaken. And the edge appears to be saber ground over a hollow ground middle. Not a trivial effort. Nice drawing though.

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
 
John - that's exactly what I intend for the blade...

Will someone give me an estimate for making this?

Thanks

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RKBA!
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joe i want this folder see in real, do i have permission to have one made? i promise you will the first one who gets some high res pictures
biggrin.gif


oh nice design, but i'm stuck with that tanto folder

[This message has been edited by BladeMan (edited 04-11-2000).]
 
Very nice pic. The difficulty factor on that grind is not trivial, and it may be difficult to find a maker willing to commit to an exact reproduction of all of your elements. A couple of questions, just for my information. At what point on the spine did you want to start the false edge? Somewhere ahead of the filework? Did you want the false edge saber ground so as not to show a transition line from the flats to the false edge bevel? How critical to you is that double recurved ricasso line? I am not aware of any technique that will allow the initial hollow grind to produce that curve that follows the line of the handle and still produce a high enough grind to allow the secondary saber grind at the height you show. (if a more experienced grinder wants to enlighten me, please feel free). It looks to me like anyone who attempts this is going to need at least a 10" contact wheel, and quite possibly it would have to be done on an even larger wheel.

Over all I would have to admit that this design is beyond my skill and equipment at this time, but I think that it is very interesting and would be very interested in seeing some more technical discussion about it.

James

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