Need design help

J

jawilder

Joined
Jun 27, 2006
Messages
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I have a request for a skinner type knife with 6" blade in stainless with hidden tang. I had this piece on hand in ATS 34. It is 1/8" x 1.5" wide.

I put it on the bandsaw last night to come up with this general shape, but it doesn't look right to me. I think 1.5" is too wide for a 1/8" thick blade. I will be flat grinding it. It would have to be full flat grind to take the grind to the tip, but it will be awefully thin.

What do ya'll suggest? Should I turn it into a clip point?

Thanks, Jason

6inHiddenTang001.jpg
 
I think the problem , if there is one, is that the blade is too long and makes its use as a skinning knife hard to use. Looks like the work is very nicely done, however. Frank
 
6" long is a lot of blade,if your gonna leave it that long either clip or drop point.IMHO
Stan
 
I agree that 6" is too long for a skinner but that's what he wants. I think it will be looked at more than used. Is 6" too long for 1/8 thick
 
Why not just drop the tip instead of clip it? That spine is just begging for some sort of gentle curve.

--nathan
 
i would say leave the profile as is unless you can sweep it back more. i like using more of the curve of the blade, so im using more edge and less tip.
 
fishunter219 said:
Personally, I think a 6"' blade is way to long for a skinner no matter the game.
Click to expand...

I agree, IMHO for deer even 5" is pushing it. Although the last few deer I've killed I've skinned by pulling the hide off with the truck, comes off like peeling a banana.

Either way though, the skinners I've worked with have always had some degree of upsweep.

Like this 4 3/8" bullnose from Gil Cote, not that I'd ever buy anything from him again...
knife-for-sale-bullnose-skinner-f-lg.jpg


Or this fine example of a 3" skinner from Don Long in Idaho- this to me is a perfect design for a deerskinner:
DSC00256.jpg


However there are a few long skinners around. My opinion is a knife like that is for pulling double duty, a butchering knife you can use for dressing game. Here's a 6" from Forschner, designed for hogs and cattle:
forschnerskinningknifebig.jpg
 
silver_pilate said:
Why not just drop the tip instead of clip it? That spine is just begging for some sort of gentle curve.

--nathan
Click to expand...

I agree! A nice smooth drop is just what that spine needs. I think you'd be surprised at how nice it will look. Granted I'm new at this, but when I'm deciding on changes to a blank, I draw the changes on the steel with a carpenter's pencil, then if it's not what I'm after I can erase it and do it over. Test out a few different things to find what looks good to you:thumbup:
 
try the bullnose idea like that Cote knife - drop the spine and tip a tad and leave a little nessmuk hump - I tried to do an example using Paint but messed it up, it looked pretty nice though.
 
The design of that Cote did catch my eye. I'll profile it in wood and see how I like it. I'll keep everyone updated and maybe turn this into a WIP
Jason
 
I think it looks like a small Leuko, and those are good enough for reindeer/caribou. Enough belly to be useful, and long straights for slicing. It depends on how he butchers. Ask the soon to be owner if he likes what you have.
 
You could just trace your blank on something like a file folder a few times and draw in some of the suggested mods to see what they look/feel like. I'd stay away from the clip for a skinner. As for length, I didn't see where you indicated what he wants to skin. The old Green River skinner is a classic and pretty long. It was real popular with buffalo and beef skinners.


 
Well the the Green River knives do work well especially on large animals like moose. Thefirst knives I made were made in there likeness as I saw them. Frank
 
I do the full flat all the time and it makes a good slicer, I would not clip the point or the tip will get really thin, too thin. the 1/8 just does not give you much left at the point.
 
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