Need help choosing a bandsaw

L

lightman

Joined
Dec 8, 1999
Messages
36
I have been looking at some old threads and I find many of you have a Grizzley 1010. Harbor Freight has a model for about $160.00 and the shipping is free. The only difference I can see in the two saws is that the Harbor Freight has a 1hp motor while the Grizzley has a 1/2hp.

Does anyone have any opinion as to which way to go?

Thanks for your help past and future,
Cliff
 
I bought the one from Harbor Freight and have not had any problems with it. They are probably all built by some little old lady in a small shop in Taiwan anyway. There isn't much difference in them, besides the color, that I can see. I went with Harbor Freight because the shipping was free. I've had it a couple of years.
 
go with a delta 14" platinum edition, it costs $800. it comes with a closed stand, 1hp motor, rip fence, mobile base. definetly worth the money. don't go with harbor frieght you can't buy any parts for it, and they aren't made like delta saws. if you can afford it after you buy it, if you buy the delta, buy carter guides made for the delta, they improve resawing accuracy greatly. i ordered mine just before the new year, but they haven't gotten them to me yet. also get power twist plus v-belt. it's a link belt that reduces vibration in your saw, which increases the accuracy and smoothness of the cut. and get steel machined pulleys.
i have a RIGID 14" bandsaw, it's is a fantastic saw, costs $500, very versitile, and built well, and i recommend it, but you have to buy carter guides directly from carter, if you want them. you can buy it from home depot.
the only other band saw i recommend is JET 14" saw, model number jwbs-14csw. i've heard jet equipment to be ammong the best along with delta and a few others. it's $554, i suggest buying the moble base made for it.
the guides i wrote about are called CARTER guides, they are the best in the industry, and will improve your resawing and ripping accuracy. if you want carter guides for a delta or jet saw, you can order them from tool crib. but if you want them for a RIDGID saw you need to call CARTER to have them ordered.
you can order all these, except the rigid saw and guides from tool crib (1-800-635-5140)
CARTER's number is (616-451-2928)
the rip fence i plan on buying is the fasttrack bandsaw fence, it's machined from aluminum, and supposedly one of the most accurate on the market, i'm going to buy a drop stop and micro adjust with it.
you can buy that from woodcraft at 1-800-225-1153.
i hope i didn't sound like an advertisement, but i know my bandsaws and i believe in these saws and accesories.
 
I have been using my harbor freight saw for a good while, with no problems. All I use it for is profiling blades and cutting stock, I can't justify spending five times the money to rough out a profile. I do all my finish profiling on my 2" x 72" anyway.
 
I have a JET-14MW, a 14" Metal-Woodcutting Bandsaw. The slowest I can get it down to is 700F.P.M. Is this going to be slow enough to profile blades with. If not, is there anything I can do to modify it so that I can use it for profiling. Thanks...
 
no way! stainless and tool steels need to be near 100fpm. you can raise that speed to 200fpm, if you have mist coolant system.
i thought you wanted to use these for wood cutting too. i resaw exotic hardwood boards. if you guys resaw too you'll find out that you need a very, no extremely percise bandsaw. and i tri-master 3/4" resawing blade from lenox, cost near $100.
generally the more persion you want your bandsaw the more money you spend, and how well built and long lasting your bandsaw is. a well aligned and set up bandsaw will cut more accurately the any other saw, plus it's less dangerous.
i think if you guys can spare the money, if you can't spare to much, trust me i know how you feel. but if you can go for the best 14" bandsaw you can buy. the 20" bandsaws are a little out of our leage, or needs.
i forgot to mention, you should get a 3/4hp or 1hp motor with it, it takes alot of force to cut metal.
the bandsaws i suggested are for cutting WOOD
only (i though you wanted to resaw, rip boards, and cut out handles). don't try and cut steel with them, you won't like what happens!
guys, i've done my homework on bandsawing and read a book on it, so if you have any questions reguarding it, just e-mail me.

[This message has been edited by magnum .44 (edited 01-09-2000).]
 
Sorry I wasen't more clear on the type bandsaw I am looking for. I am interested in a metal cutting bandsaw to cut out knife blanks and cutting bar stock. I am a woodcarver and have a wood cutting bandsaw for my rough outs.

Cliff
 
get a real metal bandsaw, don't try and save the money, becuase you won't like what you get. i can't afford metal bandsaws, so i use the plasma cutter, it's faster anyway. you'll never forgive your self if you buy a cheaply made bandsaw.
 
Magnum

Tell me about a plazma cutter. I'm not familiar with that term. Is it a better way to go? I'm an amature knife maker who does not sell much so my investment in new equipment is limited. Most of the knives I make are wood carving detail knives. They don't show much profit. I make knives for the satisfaction of making them.

Cliff
 
For light work such as cutting flat stock and profiling blades, the Grizzly or the Harbor Freight will work fine. If you need to cut out anything that has been hardened, a bandsaw is not the tool. Nothing short of a torch will cut it out.
I have had my Grizzly for about a year and I am pleased with it. Bear in mind that all I do with it is to cut out blades. I was using a "Port-a-Band" before but was awkward.
Just make sure that you buy good bi-metal blades.

C Wilkins
 
well, the plasma torch costs about $1,500. it's very quick, but leaves slag, so if you use one, cut about a 1/4" oversize, so you leave enough room to grind off slag, and the effected steel. see the steel near the cut was melted and that may effect the edge, so i grind it off. the plasma torch is like using a flame torch, except it's cleaner and has a lot less slag. instead of having a big flame, it has a smaller/ hotter flame. this is for cutting out big knives. i make knives from 8"- 16" so i use the torch. a GOOD metal bandsaw may be the way to go for you, since you cut small blades. also a good bandsaw is usually under $1,500. i don't sell my blades, except to relitives so i don't have alot of money to buy machinery ethier. i get lucky and strike a deal sometimes. you may want to look into this a little more, before you buy one.
and you should only use one if you have a concrete floor and fireproof walls.
 
Thanks to all, I think I have enough information to make a decision. I'll let you know how I make out.

Cliff
 
look into the bandsaws them selves before ordering anything. i.e. bladesize, the normal size is 93 1/2" for a 14" bandsaw. how far away the bottom guides are from the table, the closer the better.
the type of guides, the best being carters. if i were you i'd buy a delta becuase most after market parts are made for delta closed base saws.
how easy is it to change speeds?
how many speeds?
solid construction, usually the heavier they are the more solidly they are built. how easily you can change blades.
how much vibration the machine makes (the lower the better)
is the table insert flush with the table. do you hear strange noises when running the machine?
how well does it track?
the apperance of the machine.
these are the main factors i look at when i want to buy a bandsaw.
the blade speed you need to cut all blade steels is 100fpm. with mist coolant you can go with 200fpm.
most of all, make sure you can return the machine if it isn't any good.
 
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