Need help choosing a knife

Joined
Jan 15, 2008
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2
Basically, I'm looking for a durable, high quality knife. It will be put through constant abuse. One day it will be immersed in salt water, animal entrails and fire, and the next it will be used to cut through rope and metal, break glass and occasionally pry open containers. Edge retention is a priority. Concealability is a plus, but I wouldn't sacrifice quality for it. I'd also prefer not to go custom.

I'd appreciate any recommendations.
 
Welcome to the Forums. How much are to looking to spend and what size blade are you looking at?
 
spyderco salt serrated edge along with a str mini pry bar. thats the >$100
for more about $300 buy a strider sng.
im assuming you want a folder??
 
Welcome to the Forums. How much are to looking to spend and what size blade are you looking at?

Thanks. Price isn't an issue and anything from 3-8 inches will work, whatever's best suited.

spyderco salt serrated edge along with a str mini pry bar. thats the >$100
for more about $300 buy a strider sng.
im assuming you want a folder??

Thanks for the answer. I'd prefer a fixed blade.
 
Here's an answer you'll hear more than once in this thread: Fallkniven. The F1 falls just short of your minimum length (it's about 3.8 inches), but the S1 or A1 would be right there sizewise. Your stipulation about salt water would seem to exclude carbon steels, and your mention of fire might preclude the thermorun handle of a standard S1/A1. Therefore, you'd be best off getting a blade blank, and sending it out for some custom micarta or G10 scales.
 
You should look at the Rat RC-3 from Rat Cutlery. It is well-suited for all the tasks you mention, and salt water won't kill it, although you'll want to wipe or rinse it off after exposure. I'll also agree the Ranger and Fallkniven recommendations are spot-on.

The Benchmade Nimravus is a solid choice also.

For any of the models mentioned you might want to consider getting partial serrations. Serrations are good for cutting tough materials like rope.
 
Fallkniven F1 is by far the single most popular knife in these forums, (what would be second? couldn't guess) which was why I ordered one. Spend any time around here at all and you will have to get one eventually.
My cousin is not a knife guy and he handled an F1 in black micarta and almost paid 400 bucks for it! I asked him to check it out and see how it felt for me, and now he's scouring the net looking for deals and asking me for advice. Such is the power of this blade.;)
 
Along with Busse and Fallkniven, the one piece knives from Chris Reeve are well worth considering.
Then there are a number of fixed blade models from Strider.
 
get a busse combat battle mistress. i am in love with them. they are very expensive though.
 
You should try to keep the knife away from fire. It might destroy the blade treatment.

One option is to get TWO F1s. Have one in your belt that you use and one spare in your pack. Get different versions or get the spare engraved with something to remind you that you are using the spare. The Swedish airforce do not use their REAL survival knives on training, they get yellow painted ones to distinguish them from the REAL ones that should not be used unless for real.
If you want a smaller knife than the F1, get the WM1. A bigger is the S1 etc.
There is a new folder coming in April from Fallkniven too.
 
I am sure that lot of people thought what I am about to say... but since this is a knife forum... none else will tell you :D

GET THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE RIGHT JOB The suggestion of getting a knife for cutting rope (maybe with protruding tang so you can break glass) and real tools for wire cutting and prying... seems correct to me.

Seems like you are going to beat the hell out of the knife but you stil consider concealement a plus? At first I thought you would be working with it in a regular basis... using it as a tool... I feel there is no need to hide it away then.

The F1 is a great knife, no doubt, and what Liam Ryan says about staying here for a while and getting one is true... it happened to me (it is on the way though). But beware of edge chipping if you plan on cutting metal. If you look at Nosh destruction test of an A1, you will see how the inner core of the laminated blade is somewhat brittle... Try to cut steel and stuff like that... and you will probably ruin the edge. That is what pliers are for.

Sorry for being so hars but I just feel that even if a knife is capable of taking abuse once in a while... they are still task to which they are not designed for. And the high end knifes that some are mentioning here... are excelent knives.... but stil knives. You could get a Busse and use it for prying and lots of more things... but you will eventually damage a really expensive knife. In the other hand you could get an F1 for cutting and a prybar for less than 1/4 the cost of a Busse. You can use the prybar to work arround fire (I still don't know what you mean when you say fire). And both will last longer.

Mikel
 
Basically, I'm looking for a durable, high quality knife. It will be put through constant abuse. One day it will be immersed in salt water, animal entrails and fire, and the next it will be used to cut through rope and metal, break glass and occasionally pry open containers. Edge retention is a priority.

Quite frankly, that sounds like something I wouldn't do with any knife, unless I had absolutely no other choice and something important, like my life, depended on it.

If I were you, I would get a good fixed blade knife, and an entry tool like the Ranger Knives Entry Tool. The knife would cut well and handle skinning and rope, and everything else you could do with the Entry Tool, from hacking through car doors to chopping metal, breaking glass and prying open manhole covers or containers.

Now, if you really for some reason want to do all of this with just a knife, then I feel that few knives will be able to do the job. Knives with rubber or natural handles (most Fällknivens) are right out, because they will not like being near fire. Knives with stainless steel blades will not like cutting metal, they will chip their edges very quickly. Knives with carbon steel blades will not like being in salt water, their edges will corrode away with relative swiftness. No knife will like fire, because high heat may damage the heat treatment. It would be a compromise, but I would go with a Busse in the 5" + range, perhaps a CG Badger Attack TAC, or if you want something larger, you could go all the way to a CG Fusion Battle Mistress, although that would be an enormous knife, long and heavy, and very cumbersome in small tasks. There's a lot of stuff in between, too.

So, why Busse? Well, because of INFI. INFI is the steel used in Busses, and it is rather excellent. It is hellishly tough, which is good for what you want. It does not chip, which is good for what you want. It can take high temperatures better than most steels, which is good for what you want. It holds an edge very well, especially in hard use, which again, is good for your uses. And it's also very stain resistant, inspite of not being "stainless." A CG blade with a coating will only be able to develop rust in the exposed edge area, and if you wipe it clean after salt water immersion and preferably wash it with fresh water, you shouldn't have too much trouble with rust at all. Best of all is the warranty - you break the knife, Busse fixes it for you.

The downside to Busse is the relatively high price and also the relatively poor availability. You'll have to look for what you want in the secondary market, eBay and this forum's exchange forum and such, to get what you want, unless you get lucky in the Busse company store.

There are somewhat similar knives that could do well, like Ranger Knives, but most of them use more rust prone steels, like 5160, which might be an issue with salt water. However, they're much cheaper and much more available, so, it's a difficult choice.

But again, if I were you, I'd just get any good small to medium fixed blade, like a Fällkniven F1 or even A1 (for salt water use, you'll want it with the black coating), and on top of that, a Ranger Knives Entry Tool.
 
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