need help from fellow busse brothers

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fastdad4

Joined
Oct 30, 2008
Messages
8
I am new to the busse game i have 1 bad pumkin and 1 yellow gw bought the gw off ebay new and bought bad from busse comp. store i need to know the best way yo sharpen them,what kind of stone and method thanks to anyone that can help me
 
fastdad4, welcome to Bladeforums. It really depends on personal preference.

Probably the "easiest" way to go is to use a sharpening system like a Spyderco Sharpmaker or an Edge Pro. These systems tend to keep the angles consistent every time you sharpen.

However, some folks here like to convex their knives with either a strop or even a belt sander. Others like to freehand. These techniques require more practice and touch to get consistent results.
 
I have used a Lasky on my Busse's with good results. I have also been trying padded emory boards and a strop on some of my folders and smaller knives with mixed results. I can produce a great convex edge on straight blades. The problem I have is with recurve blades. I accidentally convexed the tip of a BM Skirmish. I haven't tried it on a Busse yet. I want to get my technique down before I try it on them.
 
A ceramic steel and a loaded strop will give you a nice edge, cheap and easy, if reprofiling is needed than you should consider an edgepro. I find mine a pain in the a$$ to use. It puts on a very nice edge, but those lame suction cup feet...:rolleyes: well... they blow:foot:, get the better model with the better design, for lots of extra money:eek:. A belt sander is my preferred method at the moment, with a leather belt loaded with polishing compound for all blades or a 1200 grit belt for those convexed ones, and leather belt . And last but not least you could always send it to Busse if you're really aprehensive about doing it yourself, Im sure they'd help you out.
 
I have used the Sharpmaker, Edgepro Water Stones and diamond stones and have just recently started trying the leather sandpaper convex method.I got the sharpest edges with the EdgePro or the Sandpaper.
I just did not get along with the sharpmaker. The built in angles just didnt work for me and it is no good for reprofiling but if you are unfamiliar with hand sharpening it might be a good choice to maintain a edge.
The Edgepro works great but is not good for narrow knifes (think most traditional slipjoints) but that shouldn't be a problem for most Busses except maybe the Hack also it creates a asymmetrical angle as one side of the knife will be at a slightly different angle than the other and the radius at the tip is usally a shallower angle the the the rest of the blade it is also pretty messy but makes a razor edge.
Water stones didn't work well for me they seemed very sensitive to the slightest variation of blade angle and were also messy.
Diamond stones work for a good utility or slicing edge but I could not get the polished edge on them I like, although I do like a course one for reprofilling
I just started using the Sandpaper to put on convex edges but it seems to be working pretty good but it takes practice.
No matter what method I use I always strop with leather loaded with polishing compound as the final step you would not believe the difference it makes to even an already sharp edge I also hit my EDC on a stop every day or so to maintain the razor edge.
 
I freehand sharpen using a coarse diamond stone, then a fine one, then I use 400 grit sandpaper, then 800, then 1500, then 2200, and then I strop with cardboard. This produces a mirror polished, crazy sharp convex edge. It takes a while to get your technique down, but freehand sharpening is the best. If you want a toothy edge, just use a diamond stone and give it a couple swipes with a chef's steel.
 
freehand sharpen with oil stone and strop to ploish all my knives. Takes some practice but gets em hair poppin sharp !!
 
I am very glad to be part of this hog snorting family!!!!!!!!!!!! keep info coming I am bound to learn something
 
Well, since you are dealing with INFI .. You really don't need to take any steel off to get a decent sharp edge.

If you don't need to repair any damage and just want to make the edge nice and sharp I would use a Ceramic rod and then a leather strop with diamond compound..

When I re profile an edge I just use my belt sander.. 120 grit belt and finish edge off by hand with 800 grit sandpaper - then strop..
 
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