Need help from the Fallkniven folks...

Pokerface

Pokerface

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I'd like your thoughts on the custom Fallkniven F1's. I'm looking for opinions regarding comfort and quality of wood or micarta scales. I already know that some of these are beautiful, I'm not wondering about the aesthetics. I'd like to know if the customs are that much more comfortable than the regular F1 that it warrants that much more money....$80-$150 more. I'm leaning towards the black or green micarta, but would like to know if it's that much better than the regular F1. Many thanks!

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Ill be honest with you. My F1 is my beater woods knife that just gets used and abused. Under these conditions, I think the regular F1 handles are ideal because they offer a bit of cushion and insulate your hand in the cold.

It really boils down to what you intend to use the knife for.
 
That's what I was thinking...I like how my cheap Mora's have some give to the handles. I just received the Becker BK16 and I didn't like how the handle is small and rigid, so I figured I'd ask before I make the same mistake again.
 
If you don't like the bk16 handle because it is small and thing then you will find the samewith the f1. If the f1 its going to be your beater knife that just means most loved to me.get the micarta
 
You can always purchase an F1 blade blank and slap on your own handles for approximately the same price of a standard F1. It's not that hard to do.
 
I bought my son a Fallkniven for his graduation...he loves it. I think it is very comfortable and provides good grip.
 
PB Wilson said:
You can always purchase an F1 blade blank and slap on your own handles for approximately the same price of a standard F1. It's not that hard to do.
Click to expand...

I have to respectfully disagree with this. The F1 blanks and the standard F1s are mere pocket change in difference. Knifeworks has the blank at $117 and the standard at $123. A finished handle and a sheath for an extra $6 is a lot more than the cost of the materials, the equipment to make those handles, the equipment to grind down the unfinished tangs (and they are very, very unfinished) of the blanks, and the time and labor to put it all together. I will say however that this F1 I made by myself out of a blank is the most rewarding and most favorite knife I own, despite how imperfect it turned out.

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Anyway, you won't really find many definite answers when you're generalizing about customs, simply because "custom" doesn't mean anything definite. You just have to go by your own experience and preferences for what handle materials, shapes, and sizes you prefer. For a small knife like this, I don't mind something slick like wood. Considering the prices, though, I would not mind paying around $200 for a custom one (without a sheath).
 
Alright guys. I think that I'll be purchasing the regular F1 and enjoy it for the time being. The F1 is running about $120 on average and once I add another $100 for handles....I can easily buy the 3G version for the same money. At the time being, I just don't see a reason for the handles aside from aesthetics. I'll play it buy ear and if the handle is too small, I'll exchange it for a custom. Thanks for your help.

UYTOG, that looks like a very nicely made handle. From the pictures, I can't see any imperfections, looks great.
 
Thank, AM515 :) I'm probably going to make several more because I enjoyed it so much.

You're right, the customs are mostly for aesthetics. The only thing people ever change are the handles anyway--I've never seen any customs with other modifications--and Fallkniven's Thermorun handles are already a very usable material, so all that's left for you to decide on are the shape and size.
 
PB Wilson said:
You can always purchase an F1 blade blank and slap on your own handles for approximately the same price of a standard F1. It's not that hard to do.
Click to expand...

I wonder if someone can answer a question I have had about the blanks and their use on custom models versus the standard F1 tang. Are the tangs exactly the same? By that I mean are they the same shape and same weight? As a previous post stated, the blanks are somewhat rougher in appearance but is that the only difference?

I've tried searching the internet for side by side comparisons but haven't had any success. Trivial question I know but it might make the difference between making a choice. Any images for comparison? Thanks.
 
digdeep said:
I wonder if someone can answer a question I have had about the blanks and their use on custom models versus the standard F1 tang. Are the tangs exactly the same? By that I mean are they the same shape and same weight? As a previous post stated, the blanks are somewhat rougher in appearance but is that the only difference?

I've tried searching the internet for side by side comparisons but haven't had any success. Trivial question I know but it might make the difference between making a choice. Any images for comparison? Thanks.
Click to expand...

No, they are very different. This post below shows it. The first picture is of the F1. The second has A1s, but the blank's handles are pretty much the same shape as the F1 blank's, just with three rivet holes instead of two.

tek77 said:
Here are some pics posted on fallkniven forum by Mikael W.
F1tang.jpg


The difference between the tang on the regular model and the blank is visible in this pic (goes for all models)
Fallknivenwithouthandle.jpg
Click to expand...

Part of the reason the blanks cost almost just as much as the finished knives is because the blanks have more steel in them. Not just speculation... I asked them myself.

As for what I meant by them being very, very unfinished, it wasn't just "rough in appearance." The tang wasn't squared off correctly at the edges, so it was a grinding job in addition to a finishing job. It's like the blank was punched or die cut from a big sheet of laminated VG-10 or something.
 
UYOTG: How do the pins go on to hold the scales? I've never done it before and I already modified the BK16 and will need to make some grips. Do these screw on or do you saw them off?
BTW...I placed the order for a regular Thermorun Fallkniven
 
AM515 said:
UYOTG: How do the pins go on to hold the scales? I've never done it before and I already modified the BK16 and will need to make some grips. Do these screw on or do you saw them off?
BTW...I placed the order for a regular Thermorun Fallkniven
Click to expand...

Most pins don't really hold anything. The epoxy does all of the work. The pins are pretty much just decorative and don't contribute much to the bond. I would say even Corby bolts, or anything with a lip/step/shoulder, lend less to the setting of the scales than epoxy does.

You make holes at the size of the pins in the wood, use a tapered ream to enlarge them just a little bit, cut the pins as close as possible to the length you need, then epoxy everything in place. After that, you sand and file everything down.

I used this guide: http://www.castbullet.com/makeit/scale.htm
It's not much so I had to learn a lot of it by myself and through experience, but I did pick up the reamer tip. Better than having the wood crack on me out of nowhere now that it's summer here. I never would've foreseen that otherwise.
 
As nice as they look and probably feel , I just can't justify for myself the extra $100 for the custom handle. I have an F1 , A1 , and 2 S1's all with VG-10 and thermorun handles. I like how they fit and feel , so I see no need for the micarta /wood handles.

I never buy wood-handled knives , and the micarta I've seen is probably more slippery than Thermorun . I never considered 3G steel either because the price difference/improvement over VG-10 seems unjustified.
 
I just thought of something as I sit here and wait for my F1. I ordered the knife along with the DC4 stone. As far as sharpening at home, can I use the leather strop along with the black, green,and white compounds on this blade? I heard Virtuovice on the "tube" say that this knife is not a true convex (micro-V). Although I don't argue that he knows his steel, I've watched maybe a dozen of his videos and he seems a bit partisan to the Bark River brand over the F1. Do I get a hard stone like the DC or will the leather strop work just as well?
 
I use a DC4 and leather strop with only the green compound. Works very well and I find it's all I need. Going from the ceramic to the green compound is not too big of a jump ,Imo and produces a fine edge. My second F1 is inbound any day now. Outstanding knife. :thumbup:
 
Any word on the concex vs non-convex? In any case, I'm not damaging or losing the edge by stroping a non-convex right?
 
Virtuovoice is correct. The knife is not a true convex. It has a micro-v grind for the true final edge. IMO, you should just sharpen it one the DC4 and go to work. The micro-v vs. true convex final bevel is more academic than anything. If you sharpen it on the DC4 you will be putting a micro-v on it anyway.

Also, the DC4 is VERY rough out of the box. It's also quite common for the two halves to separate over time and need to be epoxied back together. Note the DC4 is rough by design, it will very quickly restore your edge. Usually the ceramic side is ll that's that needed as the diamond plate is very aggressive.
 
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