Need help heat treating 1095!

S

samwereb

Joined
Aug 3, 1999
Messages
441
I have already taken the time to read the previous posts, and still can't find what I need. Please help if you can.

The problem: -------> I am making fillet knife blades from 1095. The blades are 7 1/2" long, and .072" thick at the thickest. After quenching, in water, the blades look like strips of cooked bacon or, worse yet, they crack beyond repair.

I have tried a simple propane torch and an MAPP torch - both produce a flame that is too small to be useful. My oxy/acetlyne torch warps the blade before it even goes into the quench.

(Outsourcing the heat treating is not an option in Columbus, Ohio.)

I realize that fillet knives are the red-headed stepchild of custom knifemaking but I really need help to fill some orders. Thanks.
 
i think your blades may be too thin, thicker blades don't warp easy. and check to make sure that your grinds are even.
 
Try using Canola oil instead of water. Water without clay for quenching is a very bad idea, IMHO.

Ravenclaw
 
Hi,

I would have to start by saying 1095 wouldn't be my first choice for a filet knife. But if that is what you want to use there are a couple ways I can think of that might solve your problem.

1. Heat treat before you grind the bevels then very, very carefully grind without getting the blade hot enough to burn your fingers. If it changes color farther than dark brown you are damaging the heat treat.

2. This would be my choice. Grind the blade to almost finished then clamp or wire tie the blade between two pieces of 1/8" thick mild steel. Now heat this ALL up to non-magnetic (inthis case about 1500 F)make sure that all the steel is the same color. Quench this in oil moving the piece up and down (never side to side). As soon as you can hold it in your hands clean it up and temper at 450 F for two hours. While it is still hot from the first temper check for straightness and if it is a little off one side or the other tweak it gently to straighten. But do it quickly while it is still 450 F plus. If you want a more flexible spring temper, Temper at about 600F. It wont hold an edge as well but it will be a lot tougher. On all blades, temper at least twice, preferably three time for two hours allowing a natural cool down to room temp between tempers.

Hope this helps. It wore me out.

GaryB
p.s. Start thinking about getting a small gas forge. Using a torch on blades over 4" is pretty difficult to get an even heat throughout the blade.

[This message has been edited by GARY B (edited 17 November 1999).]
 
I like all of Gary B's ideas! Use oil for a quench and grind thin after heat treat. L6 makes a good fillet knife!

Doug
 
For ultra thin blades I heat treat the blade bolted between two thick bars of steel. Quench the entire bundle and temper the entire bundle in an oven for at least 2 hours. It's the only way I can get them to come out straight.
 
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