Need help Reprofiling

S

StevenC

Joined
Jul 8, 2024
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I have an LT Wright Genesis Scandi grind that I'm trying to reprofile and it seems like it is taking way too long. I've used several different "course" stones, but they don't cut as quickly as I'm expecting. Maybe I'm expecting too much. I'm coming from a world of sharpening hand plane blades on sandpaper glued to a granite flatplate, freehand, but all of that was before I ended up with a paralyzed arm due to a stroke 4 years ago. I'm using a TSPROF, KO3 for reference and the initial side took almost 2 hours of grinding with TSPROF extra course, Atoma 80 grit, now I'm using a Hapstone premium Diamond in 80 grit.What am I doing wrong or am I just expecting too much?
 
It has to be a labor of love. Don’t let it become a chore.

If i have a blade I’m trying to thin, or reprofile. I do it only as long as I feel like doing it. Then I put it down and do something else. I get back to it when I feel like doing it again. It can be a therapeutic process but only in short bursts.

Best wishes.
 
eveled said:
It has to be a labor of love. Don’t let it become a chore.

If i have a blade I’m trying to thin, or reprofile. I do it only as long as I feel like doing it. Then I put it down and do something else. I get back to it when I feel like doing it again. It can be a therapeutic process but only in short bursts.

Best wishes.
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That’s what I’ve been doing. If the amount of time is normal, I’ll stop fussing. I had plane blades the took a long time. The factory at John, this knife was done on a belt, sander buffer, so I had to completely reestablish an angle
 
What do you mean by reprofling? Normally that means profile. The outer shape.

Or are you talking about thinning the edge.

Scandis have a ton of face that needs to be removed when sharpening.

I prefer more of a flat to convex grind. Easier to sharpen, too.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
What do you mean by reprofling? Normally that means profile. The outer shape.

Or are you talking about thinning the edge.

Scandis have a ton of face that needs to be removed when sharpening.

I prefer more of a flat to convex grind. Easier to sharpen, too.
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I'm creating a whole new flat at a slightly different angle to make the angle known and consistent. I understand about convex, but prefer to do a flat as the knife maker intended.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
What do you mean by reprofling? Normally that means profile. The outer shape.

Or are you talking about thinning the edge.

Scandis have a ton of face that needs to be removed when sharpening.

I prefer more of a flat to convex grind. Easier to sharpen, too.
Click to expand...

Alberta Ed said:
An extra coarse (220 grit) DMT works well for reprofiling.
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I agree, except that with a paralyzed arm, it’s impossible for me to hand sharpen anything. One hand just doesn’t work
 
I ''reprofiled'' scandi grind on my Bahco 2446 - practically identical knife as Mora Companion except the blade is a little thinner. It's 12c27 steel and I measured 59HRc on my knife.
Well; in fact it was not truly reprofiling job - I just followed the factory angle. The scandi grind looked to me more like a very shallow hollow grind and just for fun I wanted to make it straight.
It took me more then 2 hours with my ''scandi grind jig'' and electro plated diamond files. The first plate I used was #120.
 
I'd offer to help you out because of your situation.....But, I would be completely changing the look of your knife, and it's grinds, to a thinner, convex grind. And your logo might get removed, idk what your exact knife looks like, but I personally have a few LT's too.

Can you post pictures?
What steel is this?

If you change your mind, let me know.
 
TheOne45 said:
I ''reprofiled'' scandi grind on my Bahco 2446 - practically identical knife as Mora Companion except the blade is a little thinner. It's 12c27 steel and I measured 59HRc on my knife.
Well; in fact it was not truly reprofiling job - I just followed the factory angle. The scandi grind looked to me more like a very shallow hollow grind and just for fun I wanted to make it straight.
It took me more then 2 hours with my ''scandi grind jig'' and electro plated diamond files. The first plate I used was #120.
Click to expand...
I'm starting to get there. One side is now reprofiled and exhibiting a burr on the opposite side. I just needed to be more patient and realize it was going to take more time than I expected.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
I'd offer to help you out because of your situation.....But, I would be completely changing the look of your knife, and it's grinds, to a thinner, convex grind. And your logo might get removed, idk what your exact knife looks like, but I personally have a few LT's too.

Can you post pictures?
What steel is this?

If you change your mind, let me know.
Click to expand...
I'm starting to achieve what I've been chasing, it's just taking some time. I' appreciate the offer, but I don't want to change the grind to convex.
 
StevenC said:
I'm starting to achieve what I've been chasing, it's just taking some time. I' appreciate the offer, but I don't want to change the grind to convex.
Click to expand...

Still, keep us posted......
And, Welcome to bladeforums,you'll meet a lot of great people here. Stick around
 
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