Need help selecting belt flavors...

Daniel Koster

Daniel Koster

www.kosterknives.com
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 18, 2001
Messages
20,978
Yes, I know this is an old argument and Yes, I have read the archives on this subject. My problem is, though, that having read all that info has made me even more indecisive that I was before!

Here's what I'm looking at:

I do mostly flat & convex grinding on a newly acquired KMG-PL.

Here's the setup I am imagining so far:


Before Heat Treat:

Rough grind with 3M 967 at 36, then 60 grit.

Then ______ at 120 - 220 grit.


After Heat Treat:

Clean up with ________ at _______ grit

Final edge grinding with Norton 150 - 400 grit belts.

Hand sanding with ______ paper at 600 - 1200 grit.

Sharpening with either 3M Micron or Trizact belts.



How's that look? Can anybody help me fill in the blanks? Am I missing anything (or in the wrong order)?

I've been doing everything on a 1x42 and so this will be a great improvement no matter what it is. Just need to make the right decision on the belts.

Thanks!

Dan
 
 
Actually just ordered belts from Trugrit - Great minds do think alike :). Anyway, I use Norton Ceramic in 50 and 120 grit, then move to Norax in 320 or 400 depending on what final finish will be and esp if S30V ( use the 320 for faster/better polishing ). I do all my bevel grinding after heat treat. Not sure if that helps, but this is the best system I've come up with after 7 odd years with my wilton ( prior was a homemade rig running 1x 30 and 1x 42 belts. Neat little grinder only took a minute or so to switch from one size to the next ). Way back then I started at 50 grit, 120,220,320,400 and final on 600, ie lots of polishing. - Charles
 
Mike,

I just can't get that cork belt/green chrome thing to work on S30V. I hate the stuff. (I just might sell what I have left. Is it that much better than ATS34 to warrant the extra work!?)

Acutally I can't get anything past 220 to work on it, except ceramic waterstones and SC paper. I can't even get green chrome to finish it using a belt or wheel(I know some can). The only decent finish I can get is:

Machine sanding thru 220 (Norton ceramic)
320 waterstone diagonal
(1000 waterstone on smaller bevels)
Handsand with 320 long-wise
Handsand with 800 diagonal (not removing all the 320 marks then long-wise
Handsand with rubber backed 1500 long-wise until all the stop marks are gone and the finish is consistent.

FWIW - I'm finally sold on Norton over 3M (hard to switch religions). Including Norzac vs. trizact.

---------------------------------
Dan, if you're using S30V - forget anything past 220. Even a 220 ceramic is good for only one small knife.

I'm interested in what other folks use past 220, because I'll I've done is ruin belts. If the cork thing works on ATS34 - yeeehaa count me in.


Steve
 
Steve,
Sorry it doesn't work for you, :confused: perhaps you should come over to the dark side and use carbon steel? :D Works great on 1084!!! I polished a field knife with the cork belt, then started back over it with 600x thru 2000x paper. Kinda seems silly but I think the nice polish gives a good foundation for the hand rubbing.
 
Originally posted by itrade
Mike,

I just can't get that cork belt/green chrome thing to work on S30V. I hate the stuff. (I just might sell what I have left. Is it that much better than ATS34 to warrant the extra work!?)

Acutally I can't get anything past 220 to work on it, except ceramic waterstones and SC paper.

I'm interested in what other folks use past 220, because I'll I've done is ruin belts. If the cork thing works on ATS34 - yeeehaa count me in.
Steve
Click to expand...


Steve, here is a link to a discussion on the subject of what works on S30V.
And yes, the cork belt thing works great on ATS34, 440C, and BG42. :D
http://www.ckdforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16696
 
Thank Mike - After reading those posts I don't feel so bad struggling with S30V - thought it might just be me. I'll try the micro-mesh sheets (You've mentioned them before - suppose it's time to try!)

Will, The Dark side - LOL! Is that what you call it? I've tried 1095 - can't heat it right. 52100 - very happy - very expensive. I found a 1/4" leaf spring at the dump (5160?) I'm gonna bang on that stuff for awhile. I'm afraid the darkside is just hard to join - but I'll get there. Just don't call me at home breathing heavily thru a helmet chanting "Luke, Luke" - OK?.

I hope this is answering Dan's question.

Steve
 
Steve I promise I won't call doing that. ;)

I was kinda dark after being out there with my coal forge, wifey would make me change on the porch. :mad: Now I'm cooking with gas and can come in like a human.
 
I'm doing O-1 and 5160. I might sneak a lil' 440C and ATS-34 in there, but mostly I use carbon steels.

I think we're getting closer to an answer. I need to go back and read Mike's links first...
 
So, the idea (from Mike's links) is to start up with a rough grinding belt after HT and then go straight to a 400x cork belt, right?

I'm game for just about anything, so what-the-heck...



How about this then?


Profile, edge grind - 36 & 80 grit 3M 967 (ole yeller)

Prelim. finish - 220 grit (any type belt work here?)

HEAT TREAT

Clean up on 80 grit "yeller"

Go straight to 400x, then 600x cork

Handrub finish



Ideas? Suggestions?
 
I go 60x Regal, 220x to refine plunge.

Heat treat

60x Regal, 400x AO (this is important) THEN 400x Cork belt and don't forget the green chrome compound.

Make sure you break the cork belt in for 10 minutes. 10 minutes, not less than 10 minutes.

It works for me on 1085 and 1095.
 
I read a thread a while back that seemed to suggest cork belts have a nasty habit of breaking. I don't use them, and I am now wondering if the breakage actually that frequent, considering the amount of folks using them. ARE they that good and dependable, or is the percentage pretty high for breakage? I'm not trying to hijack a thread, just wondering, while we are on the subject of belts.
 
John,
I've read of guys using the same cork belt for 2 or more years. The one I've got is a couple of months old. If it survives the breaking in I can't imagine it breaking from anything I'm doing. I guess if you run a point into the belt :rolleyes:
 
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