Need help sharpening 1985 110

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Oct 30, 2015
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Have a 1985 Buck 110 which I would guess has the 425 steel if I am correct . 2 dots either side> question is ,what is the best way to sharpen these knives . I bought the knife new 1985 and never sharpened it .It is still not bad but when I went to sharpen in wow is it tough to get an edge. What is the routine for this . By the way I am using a Smiths diamond stone then a arkinsaw fine stone

Thanks
 
pheasent, welcome to the Buck Forum. Just because you purchased you 110 in 1985 does not mean it was mfg. in that year. You say it has 2 dots on the blade stamp. This puts it between 1974 & 78. The blade steel would be 440C. If your diamond stone is a new coarse stone that will do it. Those blades were given a semi hollow grind so, they'll have a thickening near the edge. You can either put a 20* edge on it. Which reduces the amount of metal you need to remove. Or put a 15-16* bevel edge on it and remove the metal.
Which will take you some time even on a coarse diamond. If your stone is the fine diamond. Then get a coarse stone. Something like a Norton coarse SiC stone which is used for rebeveling -- more metal removal. Plus, the Arkansas won't do much on this steel. DM
 
Hi David, thank you for help! just checked Bucks website again and it says 2 dots is between 1981-86 which year did the 440 stop and start the 425? If it is the 425 is it the same blade other than the steel where you are talking about thickening near the edge?
Thanks again
Kenny
 
In the time frame you state were the 4 dots (2 dots on each side). The use of 425M steel "officially started" with the first year date codes. But the 110 followed a different pattern. That steel began being used on the 110's with the 4 dot stamp. Still, us collectors get picky over Big details like this. We have found 425M steel being used before the date stamp on 100 series knives. Judging by the full hollow grind and spacers in (1981). You're welcome. DM
 
Ok, there were several items going on with the 110 during a short time. If your 110 has 2 dots, (be specific) one on each side of the 110. Is what WE call a 2 dot. Two dots on each side of the 110 WE call a 4 dot. Lets establish this first. DM
 
Have a 1985 Buck 110 which I would guess has the 425 steel if I am correct . 2 dots either side> question is ,what is the best way to sharpen these knives . I bought the knife new 1985 and never sharpened it .It is still not bad but when I went to sharpen in wow is it tough to get an edge. What is the routine for this . By the way I am using a Smiths diamond stone then a arkinsaw fine stone

Thanks

Welcome to the Buck forum!
I am flat stone challenged when it comes to sharpening any blade. Have never been able to consistently hold the same angle through the process.

Finally went to the Lansky clamp system quite a few years ago and that solved my sharpening problems. And added diamond hones when those became available.

The lansky lets me keep the same angles on both sides of the blades. Some times I will use a leather strop to finish the edge. fwiw..
Works for me.
 
pheasant, think nothing of it. I probably misread. Now back to your original question. Your blade is 425M steel. It has a full hollow grind. A new coarse diamond stone should sharpen it easily. Use a sharpie and make a mark on the bevel edge, this will help you notice when you're rubbing it on the bevel's edge. Light pressure should be used. Thus, it takes time to fully apex the bevel's edge. Once you work up a burr, flip it over & knock it off. Then apex that side, working up a burr. Flip it over and knock it off. By now it should shave hair. DM
 
Yes, the sharpie will work wonders because you can see exactly where you are or are not working the edge.

I know David will disagree, but some of us feel that the 425 as Buck heat treated it, was a bit more difficult to sharpen than, say the current 420HC. (more difficult, not impossible) But, part of that was also the way Buck made the knife near the edge, I think.
 
Ken, water or soapy water will work with a diamond stone. You will have to work on it a while using a fine stone. A coarse stone would cut down on your time investment.
One can pick up a coarse/ fine SiC stone at ACE Hardware for 8$. Use mineral on it. DM
 
Well, 425 or 440C, those old Bucks were a b*tch to sharpen, at least on carborundum or Arkansas stones. I wore out more than one carborundum stone trying to sharpen my and my buddy's Bucks, though once you got an edge it would last a long time. Much prefer today's 420Hc; diamond hones work best on these steels.
 
I don't get it. I've never wore out one SiC stone sharpening Buck knives. My Norton stones must be thicker. DM
 
Have a coarse /fine carbonundom stone also a fine smith diamond stone. Tried it it with the course stone like Dave said went to the fine diamond and then got an old belt of mine and started stropping. Came out I would say not to bad (not great ) but I could see where practice would help me . I better practice on some junk knives though. Kind of got addictive working on it , can see where you you guys get joy and relaxation out of doing this. Just dont want to ruin the knife.
 
CJ Buck commented on here quite some time back, to the effect that one could over sharpen a blade.

I have caught myself honeing a blade probably way longer than I needed to.

Sometimes hard to tell when to quit. On blades I have already sharpened a few times its pretty easy to tell. On blades with a factory edge, or ones I have never sharpened before, it does take longer to get "my edge" on one. I don't let anyone sharpen my blades for me.

Consistency, I think, is important.

fwiw...

ps... I have fussed at son in law some about bearing down so hard when he is sharpening. I don't think that much pressure is necessary either.. jmho..
 
Pack, I agree. If you can lighten up on Son-in Law. At least you have one that will go deer hunting with you and probably even help you.
Pheasant, good. Just keep working at it. Technique matters a lot. The edge coming off your fine SiC stone should shave hair. Use a light touch. DM
 
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