Need help sharpening my 0560

jfindon

jfindon

Joined
Dec 12, 2006
Messages
967
I decided to finally try sharpening my 0560 with my KME sharpener, and after suing the Sharpie method I think I finally figured what the factory edge was. Problem is I've been sharpening with my coarsest stone for what seems like forever and there are still two spots on the blade where the very edge of the bevel has sharpie on it. I'm not sure if I should just keep hitting those spots until all the marker is gone and then going for the burr or if I did something wrong.

If I rest the stone on top of the blade and put my angle cube on top of the arm the angle comes to about 23.7 degrees which I thought was pretty steep for a factory edge unless I'm not doing it right. It's set to here on the KME itself:

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Is what I did with the angle cube the proper way to get the true angle and is my KME that far off with its system?

Here is what the knife looks like, you can see one of the spots in the main focus area. There's another spot heading toward the tip of the blade.

ij7sELr7SNILk.jpg


Thanks for any tips. Hopefully I didn't mess this knife up yet.
 
Keep working the coarse stone until you grind the mark away. Then go to a finer stone. Working up a burr and grinding it off at each step. I don't have experience with your device. DM
 
Ok, that's what I was thinking but I wanted to make sure before I sit here with the coarse stone for hours grinding too much away. I probably sat here for about an hour and a half last night.
 
I had one spot on the belly of my 561 that just stayed on forever. Took a long frigging time but I finally got it. A stubborn apex seems to never go away, but it is all in your head. Don't think about the time, just keep working and it will die eventually.
 
It's pretty easy during a full reprofile to grind the full edge unevenly, meaning you don't get to the apex along the whole edge at the same time. When I measure your edge bevel, the spot with the Sharpie ink remaining is not as wide as the other parts, so you just didn't grind as much metal off that part, which is what the ink is telling you. As you reprofile, try to watch the edge bevel to keep it even on both side for the whole length. But you do need to grind off that ink to reach the apex. If you don't you'll have a dull spot on your edge.

The 0560 has obtuse blade/edge geometry. An edge at 23.7 dps (47.4 degrees inclusive) is a little obtuse. I took my 0560 to 30 degrees inclusive (15 dos), and the edge bevel is very wide and the width of the edge shoulders is very wide, about 0.051 at mid blade. By comparison, my new Mini Rukus with a factory edge has edge shoulders of 0.020. My Sebenza is 0.017. So the 0560 is never going to be a high-performance slicer.
 
The ZT is Elmax.

So I was just doing the other side and noticed the angle in which I determined the first side was totally different on this side. Where I said it was 23.7 degrees wasn't even getting the entire edge of the knife, so I wound up figuring it was around 19.3 degrees. I'm guessing it's possible that the knife was that unevenly ground from factory and that I should bring both sides to 19 degrees now? That's a lot of wasted time on the first side if that's the case, guess I should have checked that first :(
 
Virtually all factory angles are going to be uneven. I haven't really found one yet that didn't need to be reprofiled.
 
I'm right in thinking I need to get that 23 degree side down to the 19 degree side though right?
 
I have a KME and I always look to see if one side is steeper than the other and usually use the black marker to find the angle of that side and then make the other side match it...hope that makes sense.
KME now has great diamond hones (Gold Series) and they'll remove the excess metal a lot quicker. I've spend what felt like the better part of a few hours re-profiling an edge before and after using the Gold Series hones I won't ever go back.
Good luck!
 
jfindon said:
I'm right in thinking I need to get that 23 degree side down to the 19 degree side though right?
Click to expand...

I am usually happy to keep the factory angle on most folders, unless the edge is really bad to begin with. 40 degrees inclusive (about 20 per side) should be just fine. You look to be doing fine with it so far.
 
I'm not familiar with the KME but from the looks of it I'm guessing it's a guided rod system, like a Lansky? Try this for the tip, move the clamp away from the tip towards the pivot. Doing that will lower the angle going into the tip so that you get a flatter angle and should cover the entire bevel at the tip, without changing the bevel at the belly. Just a thought.
 
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