I stopped in a small gun shop yesterday and was surprised when I noticed they had a few Schrades left. I picked up a 97ot and 807UH. After getting home I was fiddling with the 97ot and went to pull the pick out and the top of the pick came off. When I put it back together it has a snug fit but as soon as force is applied it comes apart. How did they originally fasten the two parts together and what would be a good fix? I was thinking a drop of super glue but thought I would check to see if anyone has a better idea.
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Need help with a Buzz Saw Trapper
- Thread starter philw
- Start date
textoothpk
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I'm sitting here with my own 97ot examining it, Phil. I wonder if a touch of superglue or expoxy and then a little gentle crimp with some very slender pliers, at the narrow section of the brass, would do the trick. This is my favorite modern schrade, as I have told these other guys time and again, my constant companion when going afield.
Good luck with it, let's see if a better idea is posted here.
PhilS
Good luck with it, let's see if a better idea is posted here.
PhilS
Codger_64
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Congratulations on the finds! I think every one that we acquire before the available supply is diluted with WIP's, new production and knockoffs is a good score for our collections and use.
I don't own one of those Buzz Saw 97OT trappers, so I can't examine the pick to see how it was originally assembled, and we don't currently have a former factory rep on hand, or copies of the manufacturing process sheets to tell us for sure. If I were designing the process myself, they would be comoulded onto the pick shaft which would have dimples or grooves to prevent just such a detachment. Economics may have dictated a seperately molded head though, so a cynoacrylate adhesive would be required for bonding the head to the shaft.
In either case, the "Super Glue" (Methyl cyanoacrylate, C5H5O2N) would be my first choice for reattachment. Why doesn't it set up in the tube? Because it has an inhibitor in it. In a fillet (enclosed space) the glue is very slow to cure because the inhibitor is restricted from (a) evaporating (b) reacting with atmospheric moisture to deactivate it. That is why there is a seperate activator made. The best source I know of for both the activator and the cyanoacrylate is a rearview mirror repair kit available at all auto suppy stores and of course the big "W".
Just remember that the strongest bond involves the least glue. After using the activator, dip the tip of the pick shaft in a drop of the glue then insert it fully and immediately. This well be way less than a drop, and should give a complete and undetectable repair bond in an hour max.
Did I confuse you enough? Tell me if I am wrong here guys. As I said, I don't own one!
Codger
I don't own one of those Buzz Saw 97OT trappers, so I can't examine the pick to see how it was originally assembled, and we don't currently have a former factory rep on hand, or copies of the manufacturing process sheets to tell us for sure. If I were designing the process myself, they would be comoulded onto the pick shaft which would have dimples or grooves to prevent just such a detachment. Economics may have dictated a seperately molded head though, so a cynoacrylate adhesive would be required for bonding the head to the shaft.
In either case, the "Super Glue" (Methyl cyanoacrylate, C5H5O2N) would be my first choice for reattachment. Why doesn't it set up in the tube? Because it has an inhibitor in it. In a fillet (enclosed space) the glue is very slow to cure because the inhibitor is restricted from (a) evaporating (b) reacting with atmospheric moisture to deactivate it. That is why there is a seperate activator made. The best source I know of for both the activator and the cyanoacrylate is a rearview mirror repair kit available at all auto suppy stores and of course the big "W".
Just remember that the strongest bond involves the least glue. After using the activator, dip the tip of the pick shaft in a drop of the glue then insert it fully and immediately. This well be way less than a drop, and should give a complete and undetectable repair bond in an hour max.
Did I confuse you enough? Tell me if I am wrong here guys. As I said, I don't own one!
Codger