Need help with a Gayle Bradley Air

M

MajorLonghorn

Joined
Jul 6, 2012
Messages
367
Last week I decided to carry my Gayle Bradley Air after an extended hiatus. I have no idea what got on it, but when I deployed the blade I noticed several rust spots. I looked online and it seemed like white vinegar would get rid of it. I soaked the blade in vinegar for awhile and while it seemed to remove to rust, it still left some marks where the rust was, and it left a patina to boot.

I then tried CLR at my wife's behest, but it seemed to do nothing. I contacted Spyderco, explained the situation, and asked them if they could re-finish the blade. They said they could not re-finish it, but they suggested that I try Flitz.

I went to Lowe's looking for Flitz, but the closest thing I could find was Brasso. I took it home, worked it into the blade, and polished it off at first with a cloth, then with a polishing wheel Dremel attachment. At best it took off some, but not all, of the patina. I'm now at a loss. Any helpful suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

815612fae163d2d06ecc374e1e732f67.jpg


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
It's pitted. Only way to get rid of the pits, short of replacing the blade, is to regrind the blade.

They don't look too bad, so you probably won't have to remove too much material. Check with Josh at Razor Edge Sharpening and Regrinds if you want it done. He does fantastic work. It'll even cut better afterward.

For the future though, M4 isn't a stainless steel. Wipe it down with your oil of choice before storing to avoid the issue you've experienced here.

If it was mine, I'd have the regrind done. It's a light use knife anyway, so it'll be better off. What it loses in structural integrity due to the regrind will be greatly offset by brilliant slicing ability with the thinner stock.
 
Yeah I figured it was pitting at this point. As an alternative to re-grinding, do you think forcing more of a patina would help mask the pitting? If so, what method do you guys think would yield the best results?
 
MajorLonghorn said:
Yeah I figured it was pitting at this point. As an alternative to re-grinding, do you think forcing more of a patina would help mask the pitting? If so, what method do you guys think would yield the best results?
Click to expand...

Yes and no. If you force a dark patina you won't notice the pitting as much from a visual standpoint, but it WILL make the pitting worse to the touch.

If a regrind isn't an option, I'd probably aim for an even white vinegar patina. Lots of ways to do it.

I like wrapping the blade in vinegar soaked paper towels. Press it to ensure full contact and then let it sit until you start to see a bit of rust in the paper towel.

It's just micro-fine surface rust and will wipe off. Usually takes 20-30 minutes. Never done M4 though. Times may vary.
 
Simple to take most of it away. Muriatic acid and fine wire brush, wear gloves and do it outside with only the blade. Rinse it well and oil it.
 
I would try rubbing it with 00000 steel wool from Lowe's or Home Depot. It won't fill any pits but it might polish the blade enough so you' don't notice them anymore. I used this on my boy's SS .38 Special cylinder that was all blackened with powder burns. Cleaned it right up. Would be interested to know if it works for you.
 
You should be able to find Flitz or Mother's Mag Polish at an auto parts store like Autozone, etc.
 
Whatever you decide, remember to oil it and keep it in a cool, dry place. Garage is one of the worst places to keep a knife. My wife accidentally left my Izula in the garage, didn't find it for three month. Corroded beyond repair.



Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
 
I would start out with 00 steel wool and go to town on it , then move to 0000 steel wool. After that do a forced patina in hot vinegar.
When you're done , coat the blade with some mineral oil. Let us know how you make out. Good luck,:thumbup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top