Need Help With An EDC Design

G

Grant D

Joined
Apr 10, 2015
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27
Hey guys, I just recently got good with forging and making blades from Hitachi Blue #2 and would like to start making my own line of EDC fixed blades out of it. I made a prototype just recently and I like the feel of it, sharpens real easy, and holds an edge extremely well! However I wanted to ask around on what makes a EDC blade better than the rest and what you look for most in a EDC knife? Size, weight, balance, etc. Thanks guys! ;)
 
EDC for me is usually a knife that doesn't get in the way when carried but is big enough that I can do most tasks with it, blade usually over 2" long but under 5", and the handle would probably be able to fit the full compliment of fingers or close to it. FFG is probably the best grind for all-around use, being great at slicing stuff, a boon when you have a fixed blade for general use. I like personally like a drop-point for general tasks, as it has a good range of both cutting with the tip and stabbing through like materials while being easy to maintain and simple.

But then again, I'm still waiting on my first EDC fixed blade so I have yet to carry one and use one. I'm just going off of what my folding knives are like and how I use them.
 
For me a good edc is purpose built. You design the knife for functionality first. Dont even worry about what it looks like. Just draw it up with all the details you think make a good knife which for me would be a full flat grind or a hollow grond without too much "scoop" to it. It would have a choil. Lashing points if applicable to type of knife as well as a very ergonomic handle. Basically just get e function with all your favorites on paper. Then look at ways to make it pretty. Anyone who tells you looks arent important is either only i to knives as a tool or they are kidding themselves. A tool that looks as good as it works is a tool you will readily reach for and want to do so.

The problem is today so many are too focused on looks and have left purpose to the side. I cant tell you how many knives looked killer yet the little things creep up that bug you and you question ehy they did it. One thing i really like to do when working on sexing up a design is to work with easily manipulated materials like clay. Taking clay and squeezing it in your hand and studying the various grips patterns you can make and all the variables that make themselves apparent right down to how hard you squeeze the clay to what shape it is before you squeeze it can give you ideas that will help you think outside the box yet keep you in the scope of reality on what your hand is going to like the feel of. Of course the imprint you will leave on the clay would need to be simplified as to make it accessible to all hands not just yours. That is unless custom grips were your claim to fame and you took a mold of each customers hand to make the ultimat in personalized ergonomics.

As for materials In a custom i am more worried about what the maker is comfortable working with. Some makers use certain materials so long that i worry having them step outside that comfort zone may compromise the end result. My biggest piece of advice is to stay away from anything overly aggressive. If it looks like it belongs in a bud k catalog then it will appeal only to a small scope of people and they usually dont have money. I am not saying that to be insulting. Ite just what i see. Last advice is even if you NEVER plan on offering a mirror polished blade ar least learn how to do it. I hve not problem with tumbled or acid washed finishes as long as it isnt only because that is the limitations of the maker. Id rather a maker tell me its not worth the hassle yet with the skills to do it than to say its beyond heir pay grade as it to me is one of the fundemental skills of a good maker whether they use it or not. And i figure if they wont put the time into polishing a blade what other silly things are cut from their skill set because they simply present a challenge. If knifemakinfpg was easy we would all be knifemakers. And even if i am having a neck knife made it feels good to know that maker is capable of a lot more as you feel you are in good hands. Sorry for te random nature of my advice. Knda was just letting ideas fall out.
 
It needs to be easily carried so a sheath that can be converted from one form of carry to the other is nice. The Izula sheath is pretty good in that regard.

As for knives. I really like semi wharncliffes. Something akin to Gossman's UNK design. I would also keep it as light as possible.
 
Wow, thanks for all the feedback and help guys! I will definitely keep this in mind. Also I'll post a picture of my design once it's finished. Thanks again, really appreciate it! :D
 
PURPLEDC

Thanks man! I agree completely, making a knife that's functional is very important, and is often overlooked in my opinion for looks. There are many great looking and functional knives out there. For starters Murray Carter makes a great working or EDC blade, I've held a couple before and they feel great and look pretty darn nice. On another note the skill set of a Knife Maker or Bladesmith is very important. Many are biased against my work because I'm a little younger than most Bladesmiths out there making custom knives. Even though I have a good bit of experience. I can do really nice satin, mirror, and acid finishes. I enjoy the hand polishing the most out of the process next to forging, so I'm quite comfortable doing most finishes on knives. Anyways If a knife performs well for what it's designed to do, feels good, and looks nice, than I really think that is all that matters. Also thanks again for your time and effort with your reply. It is deeply appreciated.
 
KingMC

Thanks for the pointers, I really appreciate it and I will definitely keep them in mind! ;)
 
I have been carrying this Dozier Design KABAR model 4062. It's a folder but it's awesome. Consider it's dimensions when designing your blade design. I would probably suggest an 'open' style grip, much like the RAT Izula.

I also prefer a four finger grip with a blade length of between 3 and 5 inches. I also prefer thin but aggressive jimping on the spine and no, or only a very mild swedge.
 
Blade length of 2 and 3/4 inches, OAL of not more than 6 inches.

That's actual cutting area, not just what's in front of the handle scales.

I'm not a big guy, so I'm going by what works for me.

Other than blade length and overall length, there aren't that many features I want on a knife. A set of handle scales that are nicely rounded at the edges, and made of a material that offers good grip.

I used to be into knives with lots of angles and notches, but then I tried to cut things with them. Keep it simple, and pay attention to the heat-treat.

A sheath that gives you a couple of carry options would be good, too. I realize that's not "the knife", but IMO, even the best knife in the world will sit in a drawer if the user can't carry it comfortably.
 
Thanks! Also I agree with the keep it simple aspect, don't want a knife to be boring but don't want it to be overkill. I'll be ordering some kydex soon and start playing around with some designs.
 
Do yourself a favor for right now concentrate on the knife aspect and leave the sheathing to someone else....alot of very good inexpensive choices in leather plus you won't be beating your self up over it
 
While all the above posters are correct, if you actually want to sell it to a relatively broad market it has to look finished and also sexy. What I mean is that you should really build 5 seperate knives. Build one, do a pass around, compile the feedback into the next design. Repeat.

That gives you the basic design. Then pep it up with one or two unique elements. They can be functional or design.
 
Hey guys just wanted to once again say thanks for all the advice! On an unrelated note just saw none other than Steely Dan in concert at the Palms Pearl Theater in Las Vegas, just wow! ;)
 
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