Need help with forge normalization and heat treat of 1095 and 5160

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Jun 19, 2024
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I have tried to heat treat a batch of 6 knives three times now (4 of 1095 and 2 5160).

All threes the have come out too soft (around 50HRC).

The first time, I normalized targeting 1550 to 1575F and hardened the 1095 at ~1450F and the 5160 at ~1500-1525F. I used a thermocouple and hand held IR thermometer gun to monitor temp. Soak times once at a semi-steady temp were a minimum of 5 minutes and up to 10 min. I quenched in parks 50 for about 10 seconds and then went straight to 1" thick AL plates in a vice to prevent warping. I used anti scale powder and cleaned up with a wire brush and water. Hardness testing was done with a set of hardness files.

The second time I went through the process I put a 2.5" diameter, 1/4" wall, 10.5" long pipe inside the forge centered between the two burners. I drilled a hole in the forge and through the center of the pipe and ran a K type thermocouple so the tip was in the center of the pipe. I watched the temp via a thermocouple but I am not sure how accurate it is. The IR gun read lower then the thermocouple.

I think I screwed up the second time by not normalizing and getting straight to hardening. Can you confirm that I would need to normalize again?

The third time I tired just heating to nonmagnetic and then air cool for normalization, then heat again to nonmagnetic and then quench in Parks 50 and then to the AL plates.

In all three cases I tempered in a toaster oven at 375F (verified with thermometers not trusting the oven settings) for 2 hours then turn off the oven and let cool to room temperature and then do that a seconding time.

I think that my problem lies in getting the steel normalized properly. Getting to the target temp in a forge and soaking for the right amount of time is very hard even with the pipe in the forge. I don't trust the thermocouple and IR gun to have an accurate temperature say to within 25 degrees F. And keeping the temperature inside the pipe low enough is hard. It rises to 1600 to 1700F with the propane flow as low as I could get it.

Any and all advice would sure be appreciated! I guess the real answer may be to get and Evenheat oven...
 
I don’t forge heat treat so I won’t comment on the normalizing process but when I heat treat 1095 I soak (at 1470) it longer. I use an oven so I can hold temps very precisely but my minimum soak time is 10 minutes for thin stuff and 12-15 minutes for anything between 1/8”-3/16” depending on thickness. I came up with those times by breaking several pieces to check grain so I’m not saying those times are correct for every application but they give me the best results with my setup. Shorter soak times weren’t hardening my test pieces all the way through. I also use Parks 50 to quench and have had better results when my oil was held at a cooler (90 or slightly below) temps. 1095 can be very sensitive to temperature variations in my limited experience.

Regarding your temp monitoring, IR guns are poorly suited for this application and I don’t trust them to provide an accurate temp. If you haven’t already, do an ice bath cal on your thermocouple and order/install one or two more so you can get another reading to compare with. I have an extra thermocouple in my oven for just this reason.

Files aren’t ideal for testing but make sure you grind off any decarb that might be present before checking hardness.
 
Make sure you get past all the decarb the normalizing process can build quite a layer on the outside. I did a DET anneal with 52100 and didn’t have the blade protected. Probably had a good .01-.02 thick layer of decarb I had to grind though which takes longer than you think to get through. Throw it in some strong acid for a few hours and the acid will chew through that decarb.

I found that anti scale coatings like noscale 2000 slows the quench of 1095 enough to make in come in 2 hrc points lower than no coating.

For 1095 (no anti scale) I’ve done 1475 for 15 min.
If you temper at 300 you should be around 64-64.5. You really need the longer soak times at lower temps since the transfer of heat happens slower vs higher temps.
 
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