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Recommendation? Need help with liner lock

Matt Rochester

Matt Rochester

Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Messages
1,864
I am assembling a liner lock I've been working on. I set the pivot pin and everything was good. Peened a little bit and still good. Finished peening and now it is very tight. I'm sure it's an issue with things not being flat and parallel but anybody got any tips to loosen it up? Am I bett off just drilling the pivot out and starting over?
RAl4ELt.jpg
SvXlCl2.jpg
 
That’s a bummer... I don’t have any good answer for you, but if you’re okay with the look and you end up drilling out the pin, you could replace it with a barrel pivot with screws. That way you can make small adjustments with the torx head and get it exactly as tight/loose as you like it. Hope you can get it all lined out-knife looks great.

Jeremy
 
T
gudspelr said:
That’s a bummer... I don’t have any good answer for you, but if you’re okay with the look and you end up drilling out the pin, you could replace it with a barrel pivot with screws. That way you can make small adjustments with the torx head and get it exactly as tight/loose as you like it. Hope you can get it all lined out-knife looks great.

Jeremy
Click to expand...
Thanks buddy. I'll look at those. It seems a lot more forgiving.
 
UPDATE: I was able to get it loosened up but have another problem. I don't have enough clearance for the detent when the blade is closed. Once it was peened it is binding when closing it. I guess this is another measurement I forgot about. I will have to take it back apart and taper the lock a little more.
 
Are you opposed to using them? I’m thinking even if you use .005 silicon bronze washers it could help with the binding and detent issue.
Then your backspacer is going to have to be remade of course.
Hopefully more experienced people may have more advice.
 
Yup-washers are good. I am using .010 bronze washers on my current build. There are nylatron ones, too-never used them before.

Jeremy
 
Looks like the back corner of your bolster/liner area is pinched in just a little bit? Are you sure everything is still flat and parallel? For peening slipjoints, I normally cut some "U" shaped shims out of an old beer/soda can, and slide them in between the liner and blade on each side before peening. When the knife starts to tighten up, I remove the shims and it rarely takes more than a couple taps after that to get things where I want them. If you use washers, you probably won't need shims. Just stop peening when the knife starts to tighten, and work back and forth a few times to break the washers in.
 
BTW, I really like that pattern. Also, if using washers, it's not an issue, but I'd relieve the liners next time, as you're likely going to have some rub marks around the tang area. Also, you need to relieve the g10 behind the detent. That's why things are binding there.

You can see an example on this Michael Walker:
600px-WalkerLinerlock2.jpg
 
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