Need help with putting handles on the Kill Devil

Huntsman Knife Co. LLC.

Huntsman Knife Co. LLC.

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Hey guys,

I picked up two of the Kill Devils in the Ganza and while I absolutely love the design I've never liked cord wrapped handles. I had planned on making scales for them but I was disappointed to see that they only have a single hole drilled in the handle. I'm doing one in Koa for myself and one in Canvas micarta for my father.

So here is the dilemma, I want to make a nice strong handle for each hawk and Im concerned that one pin will not provide enough strength and the handle may eventually come off. However if I drill another hole Im pretty sure I will void the warranty which I definitely don't want to do.

Will handle scales bonded with G-Flex and a single pin be able to stand up to hard use? I guess on the bright side if the handles ever do come off you can just re gule them but I would prefer for that not to happen.

Id love to hear some advice from experience Hogs, Rats, and Dogs!

photo-2184.jpg
 
Not speaking on warranty cause thats way above my no-pay grade, but the hawks with handles do have other holes in em:thumbup:

I would guess they were done prior to heat treat, but they are there regardless. So not sure how much damage putting another hole would actually do??? Sure it weakens but not sure if its enough to matter?????

One more hole of same size at top where tang get wider again would probably be all you need once epoxy sets.
 
Make your own micarta-wrap handle! :D
http://www.cliffstamp.com/knives/forum/read.php?7,4239

I haven't tried it myself, but I think that a MR hawk provides a perfect test-subject as it has the milled handle-section to hold the micarta in place. Just extend the wrap down over the lanyard-hole and rivet-it like a Res-C handle.

You can choose any cloth color or multiple colors in layers, etc.! Wrap it to whatever thickness you desire, including varied contours, and/or custom-grind as desired! As a DIY project it'll be messy, potenitally toxic, may result in failure... but success would be awesome!
 
c.g,
Did you really just post a link to that idiot's website? :eek:

ETA: To make this post somewhat productive, you could possibly make the handles wider, and extend it around the edges and put pins there. Just a thought (not the greatest).
 
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If you use a good epoxy (like West Systems G-Flex) it should be good with one pin. Plenty of competition cutters are done with just the epoxy and one lanyard hole, I've seen a Winkler parang done with just one pin, and all of the Res-C blades rely upon epoxy and the lanyard tube.
 
I have read somewhere that modern epoxies perform so well that those pins are really just tradition and aesthetics anymore. don't take my word on it :p but here's another idea: hidden tang. yeah, the handle will have to be a bit wider than the steel, but I think you can make it work. Seems like this is one axe that would be perfect with the Basic grips. Big slot of rubber with a hole at the end.
 
Just a quick thought, and I may be wrong.
If you don't strip the coating the resin will only
be as strong as the bond between the paint and steel.
 
resinguy said:
Not everyone would agree with your assertion that Cliff Stamp is an idiot.
Click to expand...

OK, maybe not everyone...

Let's not get into a flame war here; it's been done before and anyone interested can search that name here at BF (or google if they like) and form their own opinions. This will be my last post in this thread on the matter.
 
I think Im just going to go ahead and do the handle with a single pin. Im using Gflex and judging from the epoxy wars thread and the huge amount of surface area being glued Im beginning to think the scales will be fine. If I do break them off I can always go back and drill a hole and re glue.
 
I agree, you should be fine.
Maybe rough up the area a bit
to give the resin something to grab.

Good luck and don't forget the pics.
 
Thanks for the advice guys! Ill rough up the bonding surface really well. I should get both done this weekend. Can't wait to try mine out!
 
uyotg said:
I have read somewhere that modern epoxies perform so well that those pins are really just tradition and aesthetics anymore. don't take my word on it :p but here's another idea: hidden tang. yeah, the handle will have to be a bit wider than the steel, but I think you can make it work. Seems like this is one axe that would be perfect with the Basic grips. Big slot of rubber with a hole at the end.
Click to expand...

You sir are a genious! I'd have probably bought one with a basic grip.
 
CollinAshmore said:
If you use a good epoxy (like West Systems G-Flex) it should be good with one pin. Plenty of competition cutters are done with just the epoxy and one lanyard hole, I've seen a Winkler parang done with just one pin, and all of the Res-C blades rely upon epoxy and the lanyard tube.
Click to expand...


AFAIK, the Res-C handles are a press fit, no epoxy used.
 
There is no epoxy used with Res C handles. Ive taken off several and I can assure you they are held on with black magic and a single stainless tube.

Seriously, there is not way you could ever get a Res c handle to come off in one piece. I still can't get the handle off my Scrapper 4 even with the tube removed. Black magic is the only explanation.
 
So no interest in the linen-mache micarta-wrap method? :(

My other suggestion was going to be horse-mat, but that's a fr cry from stabilized wood or micarta ;)
 
I was thinking about something shock absorbing like leather or rubber but I have it cord wrapped now and I'll try it out first to see if it needs any. awesome either way. This might be the push I needed to make some scales for my skelly warden
 
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