Need ideas on how to put wood scales on a Kabar.

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TheEdge01

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Apr 3, 2015
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A manager at work wants me to put black walnut scales on an old Kabar. The original stacked leather handle was ruined when he got the knife, so he attempted to put a wooden handle on it years ago. I haven’t received the knife yet, and I’ve never seen one without the stacked leather. I’m assuming it will have to be a through tang design or something similar. If that is the case, I only have black walnut material suitable for scales, so if there is a way to make those work, I’m open for suggestions. Thanks
 

You can see the inside tang profile at around 5:20.

Depending on how thick your scales are, you could possibly cut a channel into the inside of each to fit the tang. That said, I'd just buy a re-handle kit from Ka-Bar. It's only $7. That's assuming it's a USMC Ka-Bar. If it's one of the other stacked leather handle knives, you may still be able to find a leather washer kit, but you'll likely need to do some additional shaping and contouring.
 
Drew Riley said:

You can see the inside tang profile at around 5:20.

Depending on how thick your scales are, you could possibly cut a channel into the inside of each to fit the tang. That said, I'd just buy a re-handle kit from Ka-Bar. It's only $7. That's assuming it's a USMC Ka-Bar. If it's one of the other stacked leather handle knives, you may still be able to find a leather washer kit, but you'll likely need to do some additional shaping and contouring.
Click to expand...
It is an old military style Kabar. He actually wants the black walnut scales instead of going back with stacked leather. My scales are about 1/4 in thick so I should be able to channel them out. Is there a hole to add a pin for a mechanical connection or would I need to drill one out?
 
At 1/4" thick, your handle cross section is only going to be 1/2" at its thickest point. That seems pretty thin for that size of a knife. You could maybe add a center liner that's around the same thickness as the tang and do something similar to a take down style handle construction. Even then you might want to thicken the cross section up just a bit.

There's no hole in the tang of a USMC Ka-Bar, so you'd have to drill one. You'll likely need a carbide bit, or at the very least a quality cobalt bit to drill through it. Don't make it any bigger than you have to, as this will be a potential weak spot. Make sure you put a backer under the tang while drilling to minimize blowout.
 
Drew Riley said:
At 1/4" thick, your handle cross section is only going to be 1/2" at its thickest point. That seems pretty thin for that size of a knife. You could maybe add a center liner that's around the same thickness as the tang and do something similar to a take down style handle construction. Even then you might want to thicken the cross section up just a bit.

There's no hole in the tang of a USMC Ka-Bar, so you'd have to drill one. You'll likely need a carbide bit, or at the very least a quality cobalt bit to drill through it. Don't make it any bigger than you have to, as this will be a potential weak spot. Make sure you put a backer under the tang while drilling to minimize blowout.
Click to expand...
Awesome! Thank you for the help. I’ll post some pics when the project is finished.
 
TheEdge01 said:
It is an old military style Kabar. He actually wants the black walnut scales instead of going back with stacked leather. My scales are about 1/4 in thick so I should be able to channel them out. Is there a hole to add a pin for a mechanical connection or would I need to drill one out?
Click to expand...
If you have some Micarta in tang thickness you can make frame handle , it will be stronger and would look more cool ..........
bp7Bzsp.jpg
 
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A suitable piece if wood will not be expensive at all.
Why not just buy a handle block and drill it to fit over the tang?
 
the pummel is put on one of 2 ways with the most seen way a blind pin or the more rare tang welded right to the steel pummel in a circle (looks rather fancy ) i think teh walnut with micarta spacers will be the best route for you to take that way you dont have to remove the pummel. if you plan on its removal then i say order a nice block and drill it out for the tang use a round file and guide to make the handle grooves and be done with it
 
That's what I would do too, if you were willing to replace the pommel. And you can bevel each wood spacer to recreate the grooves in the leather handle.
 
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