Need input on sharpening 3V!

Joined
Jul 26, 2003
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388
Hi, I'm interested in 3V and was wondering if anyone had one and had ever sharpened it. I know that it is known for being very tough and holding a great edge but would like to know how it sharpens.
Thanks!
 
First when you are dealing with high alloy steels life is a whole lot easier if you use diamond sharpeners. Once you have that nothing is really difficult to sharpen.
 
The CPM steels are very fine grained and do best with the smoothest edge possible.
After using an extra-fine diamond hone-1200 grit, finish with Hard Arkansas stones. The surgical black grade is about 2000 grit and the translucent grade is 6000 grit I believe.

Last use a strop for the wire edge. The best way is to glue some hard, smooth leather to a block of wood. I use CrO rouge on this.
 
I'll defer to Shgeo as to the best way to sharpen 3V, but I've been able to get a terrific edge (push cuts well while still slicing aggressively) by sharpening with fine diamond (red DMT) and finishing with just a couple of light strokes on medium ceramic to cut off any burr.
 
Actually, I got my ideas on sharpening CPMs to such a fine grit from posts by Jerry Hossum. Since then, I have found that it makes a long lasting edge on the other tool steels that I use as well.
 
CPM-S30V like all of the CPM high alloy steels is relatively difficult to machine and thus sharpening time will be greater than other cutlery steels for similar extent of blunting. In regards to technique, same as any other steel, hone to the desired grit finish with the widest and most aggressive stone available to minimize burr formation and required applied force.

CPM-3V can be worked readily with plain waterstones, but much of an advantage is seen with Diamond abrasives compared to simple steels like 52100. It will readily take a high polish with suitable fine abrasives [CrO], capable of push shaving fine hair above the skin, as well as readily developing a coarse edge if finished with a rouger stone.

-Cliff
 
It will readily take a high polish with suitable fine abrasives [CrO], capable of push shaving fine hair above the skin, as well as readily developing a coarse edge if finished with a rouger stone.

Being able to push shave at a high polish, or taking a course finish with a rough stone is an attribute of any steel. The performace is releated to geometry, edge finish and edge alignment. The Steel type is not relavent. There is no cutlery steel that has such a course grain structure or large carbides that it can not take a polished edge so as to shave hair.

Cutting performance is an attribute of geometry, not steel type. Steel type will effect wear resistance, impact resistance (though so will geometry to a much greater extent), corrosion resistance, etc.

As to sharpening:
In regards to technique, same as any other steel, hone to the desired grit finish with the widest and most aggressive stone available to minimize burr formation and required applied force.

Exactly.
 
The many faces of Chad :

Being able to push shave at a high polish, or taking a course finish with a rough stone is an attribute of any steel.

Several of the steels the Japanese use don't take well to very coarse edges mainly as they are *very* brittle and the edges tend to fracture instead of getting cleanly cut. Even if a coarse edge is applied, they are not overly functional with it because the microserrations break off too rapidly. This is why natural waterstones are prized by the master japanese craftsmen as they are softer and "flaky" and thus can produce finer edges. Note that their sharpening tolerance is very extreme, far beyond simple shaving.

On the opposite side, very soft steels don't respond well to high polishes as they develop burrs very easily and again even if a quality high polish is obtained, it isn't functional as it will bend far too readily. These steels tend to work best with a slightly more coarse finish. With large microteeth, the edge can continue to cut well even if slightly deformed as there is more overlap between the cut path of the individual teeth. At a basic level, the larger the teeth the directly larger they can be deformed and still be well enough aligned to continue cutting.

Of course it depends as well as what is being done, it might be that the task is so edge specific you would go with a less than optimal edge anyway and thus put a coarse edge on a really brittle steel (but in some cases, see below, the limitations can be so severe that this isn't possible). But steel can have an influence both on the ability to take an edge of either type, and how functional it will be in use.

Aside from steels, and moving on to blade materials in general, Titanium and Ceramics are two which respond very poorly to coarse edges. Titanium tends to oxidize and smooth out micro-serrations and Ceramics tend to just break apart. With Missions Ti I even went to using very coarse belts (100 AO) and even bastard files and could not gain any increase in slicing aggression or edge retention. In general you were better off giving it a higher polish regardless of the type of cutting. See the review for more details.

Cutting performance is an attribute of geometry, not steel type. Steel type will effect wear resistance, impact resistance (though so will geometry to a much greater extent), corrosion resistance, etc.

Chad, it is bad enough that you are quoting an arguement I had made as if you presented it [as an arguement to me which is really kind of odd] at the very least get the details correct. Here is an example of how you do it correctly :

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=175966

Note this thread is over two years old. It was also not the first time that I made such edge modifications so quite frankly I don't need you to tell me how geometry influences cutting performance, especially when you can't even get it correct when I layed it out for you years ago.

Here is a quote, from me, from that thread :

"... the steel and heat treatment make no effect at all on the cutting ability of a particular geometry (*minor* effect on surface friction only) and only a very small effect in regards to edge finish and to see the latter you have to be working at very fine polishes (below the grain size of the steel) and at very acute angles. "

The critical part is "of a particular geometry". With some steels specific geometries may not be obtainable [consider time, abrasive requirements or steel properties as mentioned in the above] or functional at those geometries as they can be with other steels.

In the *years* since I made that statement I have found a few exceptions to the "very small effect", so I would change it slightly to :

"Cutting ability in general is mainly controlled by geometry and is little influenced by steel or heat treatment. The material properties of the steel influce mainly how functional the blade will be at that geometry, specifically does it have enough strength, toughness and wear resistance to hold that geometry without suffering excessive deformation, fracture or wear [or corrosion].

There are a few exceptions to this general rule, as always. Some steels may be so brittle that they do not respond well to coarse edges, neither taking them well, or being very functional in use as the teeth snap off readily. other blade materials may suffer related problems with high polishes, being difficult to apply due to lack of stiffness which also leads to very quick blunting.

In extremes, if the users tolerance to sharpness is *very* high, differences can also be noted among the various steels in ability to take various finishes. It takes very extreme viewpoints to notice such behavior however, and for most such disparity is not a factor. For more information check posts by Jeff Clark on the "sharpness" and sharpenability of various steels."

There are also further complications as to how steel can influence cutting ability at a particular geometry, specifically how the steel breaks down in use, for example see :

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=226263

This was a year ago Chad, try to keep up.

-Cliff
 
Note that their sharpening tolerance is very extreme, far beyond simple shaving. - Cliff

What type of tolerances are we talking about here? Are they applied to special knives or special steels? Just curious.
 
Here we go again. :yawn:

To sharpen CPM3V:

1. Go to the store
2. Buy you a 12 pack
3. Get out your Sharpmaker and start drinking.
4. When you finish the 12 pack, you might be done (assuming that you have your fingers!)

Seriously, get a diamond sharpener. I worked on 420V for a long time and it never did get too sharp until I got a diamond sharpener. I have one 3V blade and it takes a wicked edge, but with a regular stone-it takes forever.

Daniel
 
panella :

What type of tolerances are we talking about here? Are they applied to special knives or special steels?

The standard they have for sharpness is simply very high. They will even reject steels for use because they can not get sharp enough. This doesn't mean they can't be made to shave hair, there are simply much higher levels of sharpness. Some of the more coarse gained steels (large aggregrated carbides can be up to 100 microns) can not take really fine polishes and at low edge angles, the finish will be dominated by the nature of the steel. Example :

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=214104

With a really low edge angle (<10), this custom ATS-34 blade had an edge which showed large (relatively) microteeth which would not go away with refining the abrasive because the teeth were formed due to the grain structure of the steel, not the abrasive tracks. This would be one of the steels rejected for ultimate sharpness but those with extreme tolerances. They will apply such edges to all manner of knives.

Daniel :

... with a regular stone-it takes forever.

I have done a lot of sharpening on a Spyderco Military, using it for various comparisons of edge retention. The honings were not light touchups, but complete removals and reapplications of secondary edge bevels. Using a 220 grit waterstone it took less than a minute to remove the secondary edge bevel (0.1 to 0.3 mm wide), then two minutes on an 800 grit waterstone, two minutes on a 1000 grit, and then one minute on a 4000, followed by a few passes on CrO. Total time is eight minutes.

The critical part is the 220 hone, on a much easier to machine steel like 52100 you can ignore this, and even the 800 grit hone and skip right to the 1000. However with steels like S30V[*] you need to do the primary sharpening with a really coarse stone, waterstone is fine, though diamonds will make life easier. In comparisons against VG-10 (same edge geometry), the VG-10 blade was consistently faster to hone, but only talking about on average 4-6 minutes for VG-10 vs 7-9 minutes for CPM-S30V.

If Diamond abrasives are used the times are reduced and go much closer together.

[*] note S30V is not alone in this regard, much of the high carbon stainless steels (ATS-34, VG-10) and various high alloy tool steels (D2, M2, etc.), also need very coarse hones for the initial sharpening to allow it to be completed in a sensible time frame.

-Cliff
 
Cliff -

Thanks. I must be getting smarter reading all the posts because I understood your explanation and it makes sense.
 
I can only comment from the point of view of an ordinary user with no special love of or aptitude for sharpening [or "polishing" as the Japanese stylists are wont to say.]

In the field when your time is limited, diamond makes life alot easier. In the shop or at home when you have time and patience, stones and patience will eventually work.
 
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