Need Opinion from Others

J

J Lensmire

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 30, 2021
Messages
209
Something looks a bit off. I reshaped the blade, did I take too much height away? Do you think it should be an 1/8 or so taller to match butt of handle? Also, handle is 4.5” while blade just under 4”. Probably need another .5” or so on blade.
Please let me know what you think.
Thanks

IMG_1188.jpeg
 
I'm not a hunter...though I spend a lot of time in woods. It looks fully functional to me, but, again, I can't speak to processing deer.

And, I'm not so sure you'd want it longer for that, however.

To me, it looks like a good multi-purpose knife. How you decide to dress it up aesthetically probably won't make it more useful but for the eye appeal.

I'll let the guys who actually do this comment further, but it looks like a nice effort to me as someone who appreciates what goes into it.
 
Thank you, sir. I know my brother-in-law likes the thinner parer I made for skinning deer. That’s why I’m in a bit of quandary. Something just isn’t looking quite right. I removed some belly because it definitely was to tall, originally. I guess some nephew will have another “test” knife.
 
Better pin placement would help a lot.

Try to copy a Bob Loveless dropped hunter blade, there are some subtle differences.

The butt end doesn’t always need to have rounded features on the profile.

Hoss
 
DevinT said:
Better pin placement would help a lot.

Try to copy a Bob Loveless dropped hunter blade, there are some subtle differences.

The butt end doesn’t always need to have rounded features on the profile.

Hoss
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I disagree, that butt looks great! I bet it's comfortable. I wish all knives were rounded at the top butt end.

I agree about pin placement maybe be more conscious of where they should go?

Without seeing it in person and holding it, it's hard to tell?

Is the index finger and underneath good?
I usually like less detail for where my fingers go....because everyone s hands are different sizes
 
Functionally it sounds fine.
Pins can be placed a little higher than center. I think the rear pin would look better a little higher and a little further forward. I also think that it would look better with more of a drop-point spine profile with a gentle curve for 3/4 of the blade length rather than being straight and then diving for the point from half way or later. Might have looked more conventional if the cutting edge and ricasso line were parallel to a line running from tip to apex of butt. The blade currently looks like it tapers in depth from the ricasso to the point. While continuous curves are good, I like having a little down angle of the edge, otherwise a drawing cut tends to make the edge disengage and slip. Good example is comparing the Skookum Bush Tool with Rob Evans Bush Tool.
 
Being picky, id maybe get rid of as much ricasso as possible and move your mark up and over parallel to edge

*again, still a great knife!
 
Crag the Brewer said:
I disagree, that butt looks great! I bet it's comfortable. I wish all knives were rounded at the top butt end.

I agree about pin placement maybe be more conscious of where they should go?

Without seeing it in person and holding it, it's hard to tell?

Is the index finger and underneath good?
I usually like less detail for where my fingers go....because everyone s hands are different sizes
Click to expand...
Again, look at Bob Loveless, Steve Johnson, and John Young knives and see what the back end looks like.

Hoss
 
I definitely like the Loveless Drop Point. I need to continue practicing maintaining the shape of its handle while finishing the shaping of material. As far as pin placement, drilling without a drill press and trying not to drift can be a challenge. Thanks for all the constructive advice.
 
First three things I see:
Biggest visual issue - Pin at butt is too close to the end. It should be the same distance as the front pin is from the front.

Smaller visual issue - Front curve of the handle is going the wrong way. It should curve back from the spine to the finger grip area.
Matter of taste - The ricasso looks a tad wider than needed. This may be optical because of the above issue.

None of these affect use, but they immediately caught my eye.
 
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DevinT said:
Again, look at Bob Loveless, Steve Johnson, and John Young knives and see what the back end looks like.

Hoss
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I prefer the lamb skinner type.... Thomas Lamb's influence.
I wonder if most people think it's wording of Lamb Skinner means the animal?

*I'll look up Steve Johnson and John Young. I'm not familiar with them, Thank You.

The Loveless Lamb handles are very rounded looking. I never held one.
 
Finish out your ricasso and blade before you put the handles on.

Blade scratch pattern is vertical, ricasso is horizontal and I see not as finshed.

clean up the green scum

Edit to add, if your breaking the spine isn't drastic, sometimes, you can thin down the whole handle and spine some amount until you gt it back.
Hand sand it. It takes forever, but you can see your progress exactly.
 
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J Lensmire said:
Something looks a bit off. I reshaped the blade, did I take too much height away? Do you think it should be an 1/8 or so taller to match butt of handle? Also, handle is 4.5” while blade just under 4”. Probably need another .5” or so on blade.
Please let me know what you think.
Thanks

View attachment 2650246
Click to expand...
I like the size and shape, looks useful.
My humble opinion though is I might change a few things.
Pin placement, rear pin up a bit.
Top of the handle scale curve needs to be moved forward to match lower, or reversed so it extends beyond the lower.
Move plunge line rearward 1/8" or 3/16 to make a smaller choil.
Don't let grind line extend into spine.
Flatten the blade grind out more, the main section looks flat but the tip looks convex.
 
I don't think the blade being taller would necessarily be an improvement, unless it meant the grind line didn't go past the spine.
Unless intentional, primary bevel grinds that break past the spine are no bueno and always make a knife look hanky to me even if everything else is cool.
 
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Again, thank you all for the honest feedback. I liken this to photography, I know when I see a great photograph, but how do I get there? When I try taking an artistic picture, it’s flat, non-inspiring. This feels the same.
Hoss, I’ll definitely try my hand at the Loveless style handle.
Crag the Brewer, maker’s mark placement has changed on a number of knives and still trying to determine “best” for me.
Stacey, pin placement has been a challenge. I always think of having a lanyard, but then go against it. But thanks for “rule of thumb” concerning distance of rest pin vs front pin.
Jesse/Forrest/Lorien, breaking the spine is problematic for me. I get so focused on thinning the edge or straightening the plunge grind that I forget about the spine. On this particular example I know during the reshaping, I took things too far.
0-10, final clean-up goes without saying. I don’t consider this example finished, but again, thanks for the comments.
I’ve got much to learn, but isn’t that life.
Thanks again
 
J Lensmire said:
Again, thank you all for the honest feedback. I liken this to photography, I know when I see a great photograph, but how do I get there? When I try taking an artistic picture, it’s flat, non-inspiring. This feels the same.
Hoss, I’ll definitely try my hand at the Loveless style handle.
Crag the Brewer, maker’s mark placement has changed on a number of knives and still trying to determine “best” for me.
Stacey, pin placement has been a challenge. I always think of having a lanyard, but then go against it. But thanks for “rule of thumb” concerning distance of rest pin vs front pin.
Jesse/Forrest/Lorien, breaking the spine is problematic for me. I get so focused on thinning the edge or straightening the plunge grind that I forget about the spine. On this particular example I know during the reshaping, I took things too far.
0-10, final clean-up goes without saying. I don’t consider this example finished, but again, thanks for the comments.
I’ve got much to learn, but isn’t that life.
Thanks again
Click to expand...

I don't know if you mentioned steel type? Or when you ground it....pre or post heat treatment?

I'm a big advocate for grinding After heat treating.

Yes, it takes longer, but it also takes longer to screwup.

If you are having issues with grinding into the spine...?

If you were grinding 63-64HRC steels, you 'd have plenty of time to notice, before anything happened..... Haha, it seems like All day, even.
 
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