Need Opinions On Battle of Kings Mountain Knife

peter nap

peter nap

Joined
Nov 27, 1999
Messages
3,745
This is the roughed out knife. It has:

9" Trade style blade

Striped Maple handle

Poured (lead and 50/50 bar solder) bolsters

1075 steel


It will get an iron butt cap
The Bolsters will get beveled to the blade on the sides.
The blade and butt cap will get a rust brown.

The insert section of the handle is a tight .54 fit.

The handle gets Aquafortis and oiled finish.

Suggestions please.

king1.jpg

king2.jpg
 
Kings Mt NC? I live 10 min from there.... Looking good. Different handle for sure.
 
The handle is like a plug bayonet without all the frill work on it. I posted the document I had a few weeks ago. Chuck felt that they were just whittling the back of their knife to fit the bore and I expect that's right. The problem I have doing that is that to have 2" fit in a .54 bore, I have almost no tang left.

I took the next best route and made a plain short plug handle. The tang is full length 5/16 rod completely embedded in West Epoxy. That should be strong enough for even the most fumble handed re-enactor. :footinmou
 
Don, that's gonna be real neat! Nice work. I didn't know they had plug stickers. Your bolster idea is great, too. It looks sharp, too. I wouldn't want someone coming at me with that blade! I really like your period work, fella.
 
Don, I like it but, I'm not sure about the back end there. The blade and everything looks great, but I'm assuming that end is to plug into the rifle barrel (I'm still working on my rifle knowledge)? As I said the blade and such look great, would make a great chopper. Looking forward to the finished product...and the WI axe. :D

George...what the heck is that on the botton of your signature???
 
That's right J. It goes in the barrel. I'm a little concerned about the back also. It needs to be rebated to go into the rifle barrel. That's the whole point. It is awfully long though.
The plug bayonets have a tapered handle that is nearly as long as the blade. They are very long, lean, elegant weapons with a lot of ornate fittings. This looks a little like a plug that didn't get finished.

I doubt that there were many of any at all, plug bayonets at the Battle of Kings Mountain. As Chuck suggested, I expect they just chopped away at the rear of their Rifleman's Knife, until it fit the bore.

The written mandate called for at least 2" of insertion in the barrel.

Now the question for everybody. Would it look better if I shortened the handle and brought the rebate forward?
 
Now the question for everybody. Would it look better if I shortened the handle and brought the rebate forward?

I think the thing that catches my eye more than the length (I'd want to be able to get a good grip on it) is the round shape and the transition from plug to handle. Perhaps a ring the width of the bolster at the back of the handle to break up that long expanse of wood? - Jim
 
Thanks Jim. I think I solved the problem.

I cut the rebate off and made the handle....normal handle length.

Then I re-cut the rebate two inches into the handle leaving a squared off shoulder this time.

I took a piece of the same wood and drilled a .53 hole into it and taper it just a hair.

This slips over the rebate. Tomorrow, after I get back from hunting, I'll dress this new section (shroud) down to match the rest of the handle. Instead of putting a cap on the butt of this new section, I'll use a stud that the 5/16 tang screws into.

To use it as a bayonet, just unscrew the stud, slip the shroud off and stick it down the muzzle.

I expect I'll use a spacer to make the joint look like it belongs.
 
Looks good to me Peter, only thing is I believe I'd have used pewter for the bolster instead of lead, but that's only a mild health concern. I look forward to seeing the finished product, the sleave idea sounds good.
 
The lead is a period thing Will. The expensive knives used pewter , silver and even gold but the cheaper knives, especially the turned handle, trade knives, used lead.

I'm trying to stay as close to what it could have been, as possible. I'm stretching it with the shroud but I'm sure something like that was done at some point.

If this one turns out the way I want, I may sell it (or trade it for a lock). I've been throwing the idea around of selling just enough to make one hobby or the other self supporting.

This would be my first knife sale if I do. I've gotten some requests from
reenact ors for a Kings Mountain Knife, so I guess it's a good place to start.
 
Hmm, kinda figured that was the reason for the lead, but if your trying for real authenticity, how bout for the sleave whittel it out? Make it look like a rifleman took his penny knife and carved it? Maybe out of a differant wood. Don't know, might not look right, just an idea. Make sure to show the finished product though!
 
I thought about that Will. The only problem would be that no one would want it. These fellows want to be authentic as long as it's fancy or unusual. Look at the powder horns they use. I have 25 or so original horns. None are fancy at all.

Look at what you see at a modern get-together. :eek:

Besides, I wouldn't like the knife. There's a very fine line between rough and rustic.
 
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