Need opinions on making a sheath for a rubber coated folding saw (pocketboy/gomboy)

[Joe R.]

Will be getting a saw similar to the picture above shortly and plan to make a sheath for it.

Really like the pancake wetmolded look but am concerned the grippy rubber handle will make it too much of a chore to slip in and out of the sheath.


I was thinking of two possible solutions:

1)wrapping the saw with something thicker than saran-wrap (like duct tape) prior to the wetmolding process to give it a bit more room

2)stitching the leather a little bit farther away than usual to give the sheath more give​

What do you guys think, am I asking for trouble?

 

[Horsewright]

Not made a sheath for a saw but have done several for knives with similar handles. It does throw off the space time continuum some. I've found that your #2 has worked the best for me. Here's another thought. Build it roughout. With the grain side against the saw you'll have a little more slip. Retention on such a shaped object is gonna be friction so looks like you'd have plenty of that with the handle material.

 

[nme705]

looking for somthing like this?

 

[Joe R.]

... I've found that your #2 has worked the best for me. Here's another thought. Build it roughout. With the grain side against the saw you'll have a little more slip...

Thanks for the idea, hadn't considered that. Really don't like the look of having the flesh side out though, so maybe lining it would be worth looking into.

looking for somthing like this?

My first choice would be to make a hard sheath made by wetforming thick veg tan leather around the saw. I like the pancake sheath look made from two pieces of leather (one front one back) with a nice saddle stitch all the way around.

However, if the consensus is that a friction fit sheath wouldn't be the best idea for this rubber-gripped saw, then I will opt for a sheath with a flap.

Very nice sheath by the way:thumbup:

 

[wicekleather]

For saws i like doing this type

Before molding you should place traingle of thick leather in place like in picture (beetwen handle and blade)

Thanks that molded sheath will be widder . I always do about 8-10 mm widder in upper part.

 

[bradlox]

i use those saws at work , never thought of making a sheath for one now i might have to !
i have recently been making bees wax dipped sheaths and am convinced its the way to go . i think the wax might help prevent the rubber (very grippy rubber in my experience ) gripping too much .
its a bit of a learning curve with the wax dipping shrinkage has to be planned out , imo my friction sheaths have worked out great stood the test of time even in tropical climates .

 

[Omega Leather Works]

i use those saws at work , never thought of making a sheath for one now i might have to !
i have recently been making bees wax dipped sheaths and am convinced its the way to go . i think the wax might help prevent the rubber (very grippy rubber in my experience ) gripping too much .
its a bit of a learning curve with the wax dipping shrinkage has to be planned out , imo my friction sheaths have worked out great stood the test of time even in tropical climates .

Beeswax and leather are like chocolate and peanut butter, a natural combo. I have tried a few different finishes and I still like an emulsion of wax and coconut oil best. Low gloss, great protection and just plain nice.

 

[Joe R.]

For saws i like doing this type....Before molding you should place traingle of thick leather in place like in picture (beetwen handle and blade).....Thanks that molded sheath will be widder . I always do about 8-10 mm widder in upper part.

That is what I wish to achieve! Great tip about the leather wedge idea to enlarge the knife prior to the molding process.

Did you mold the back too, or did you just leave it flat?

i use those saws at work , never thought of making a sheath for one now i might have to !
.... i think the wax might help prevent the rubber (very grippy rubber in my experience ) gripping too much...

I will be ordering a Gomboy 240 probably this week, so will probably receive it during the Christmas rush. Not an ideal time to start a project.

You should make yours now to see if the wax dip will be enough...then I can copy it

Beeswax and leather are like chocolate and peanut butter, a natural combo. I have tried a few different finishes and I still like an emulsion of wax and coconut oil best. Low gloss, great protection and just plain nice.

Yep, easy to maintain too.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

I would mold only the top layer. Molding both would be too much retention imo. The folder sheaths I've made are molded on one side and the knives click (for lack of a better... Um... sound) into place and cannot be shaken loose unless you hurt yourself trying.

Interested to hear what others do, but that's been my experience.

 

[wicekleather]

I would mold only the top layer. Molding both would be too much retention imo. The folder sheaths I've made are molded on one side and the knives click (for lack of a better... Um... sound) into place and cannot be shaken loose unless you hurt yourself trying.

Interested to hear what others do, but that's been my experience.

I always do exactly the same way Back part is flat.

 

[Joe R.]

Well, I finally received my saw (decided to wait for free shipping promotion) and was a bit surprised at how thin the blade is with respect to the handle and how much it protrudes. It feels a bit delicate.

I'm throwing an idea out there and would like to know what your thoughts are...how about adding a few welts to the sheath to beef it up a bit (like "a" or "c" pictured below).






top view (looking down into sheath), not to scale, yellow depicts stitching

 

[Joe R.]

Anyone know if its been tried before or have opinions on its necessity?

 

[harronek]

How much of the saw do you want covered by the sheath .
Do you want most if not all of it enclosed , or just enough to retain it and a lot of saw visible ?
Looking at the picture of it I can't see there being to many problems making a sheath for it .
My advice would be don't over complicate and overthink things .
I've made a small Folder sheath with a built up welt like in picture C , but it was just an exercise in fun and turned into a test of hand stitching because there was about 6 or 7 layers of leather .
Keep it simple .

Ken

 

[Joe R.]

Hi Ken,

Right now I'm leaning towards the "c" type with most of the saw covered, up to about the 9" mark. Undecided yet about having a cover flap.


I've never had this type of saw before and am thinking it will most-likely live in my pack, so would like a bit of blade protection. I do want the ability to belt-wear it if the need ever arises.