Need opinions on this blade.

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Bayou Custom Knives

Bayou Custom Knives

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Dec 20, 2010
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I HAVE JUST FINISHED THIS KNIFE AND WAS LOOKING FOR SOME FEEDBACK ON THE BLADE SHAPE.
I WANTED TO TRY SOMETHING DIFFERENT THIS WEEKEND AND THIS IS THE SECOND TYPE I HAVE MADE.
I CUT THIS FROM 1080 BAR STOCK AND HEAT TREATED IT MYSELF.
THE KNIFE IS 7 INCHES OVERALL WITH A 3.25 INCH BLADE.
THE HANDLE IS FLAMING BOX ELDER BURL SECURED WITH 3/16 INCH BRASS.
PINS.
SORRY THE PICTURES ARE NOT VERY GOOD, IT IS HARD TO TAKE PICTURES OF MY BLADES BECAUSE I LIKE EM' SHINY
MY WIFE LIKES THE BLADE SHAPE BUT I AM ON THE FENCE ABOUT IT .
THANKS FOR ANY OPINIONS OR WAYS I MIGHT IMPROVE .
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I see nothing wrong with the profile. The grind lines are a little uneven but that will improve with each knife. I say build what you like. With the exception of very few knives no matter the shape, materials, steel, etc. any knife will have people who like it and people who dont. By the way I wish my second knife looked that good. Keep up the good work.
 
Thanks darrin , i still have to cleanup the blade a little and put the final sharpening on it but i think it turned out pretty well. I just wasnt a fan of the blade shape.
 
Wharncliff blade style. Lot of folks love that style. Looks like you did a fine job. I give it a thumbs up.:thumbup:
 
Yeah...wharncliffes are really sweet. I love the blade shape. The wharncliffe blade has been around for centuries.:thumbup: That should tell you how useful and popular that blade shape is.
 
There is room for improvement but it has character. The handle material looks especially nice to me. I'm not a fan of Wharncliff blades but they seem to be pretty popular these days. You did a nice job.

LonePine
AKA Paul Meske, Wisconsin
 
A knife to be proud of, fine lines- stunning wood. Only comment from a functional standpoint. I think the top rivet should be closer to the butt of the knife. This is a section that with use might get wet or try to warp away from the steel in time, so needs to be held most secure. The owner may drop the knife or bang the butt end so a rivet closer to the butt might prevent a separation. It’s not a complaint- just think about that when deciding where to put rivets.
 
milesofalaska said:
A knife to be proud of, fine lines- stunning wood. Only comment from a functional standpoint. I think the top rivet should be closer to the butt of the knife. This is a section that with use might get wet or try to warp away from the steel in time, so needs to be held most secure. The owner may drop the knife or bang the butt end so a rivet closer to the butt might prevent a separation. It’s not a complaint- just think about that when deciding where to put rivets.
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Thanks for the comments , i was supposed to put a lanyard tube on the end but i forgot to drill the hole before heat treat and my regular bits wont cut the metal so i just left it out. :o
 
I make mistakes like that too! (grin) Not a mistake really- just a change in plans. I do have a hint for this particular issue. It is possible after heat treatment to use the torch on the steel where you want to drill, by annealing that section – take the hardness out of that one small spot- heat that one spot to blue- let cool slow and it will drill. We want the handle softer anyhow, and any stress created there should not be an issue. I have not had the handle warp or other problems. That may not be a by the book suggested method – unsure, only know it works. Your knife still looks fantastic!
 
I must say that I am not usually a fan of wharncliffe blade (I find they often look flimsy) but this one looks solid. I'm not a fan of the blade geometry, I believe a full flat grind would look better, and slice better, but I'm not a knife maker and have no idea if it would really be possible on a blade such as this (it makes the tip too weak perhaps?)
 
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