Need PhotoChoppers for Jerry's design invitation

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JWBirch

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I could use the help of some avid and skillful photoshop users. Jerry has extended an invitation to design a ballistic vest duty knife here

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=647262&page=6

...but I feel that it's really just a matter of moving some parts around, in which case Photoshop will do the heavy lifting for us. SHBA this, Dumpster Mutt that, BATAC the other... It's there, just need someone to stitch this FrankenBusse up for us.

Marsh will be contributing as well, and for that matter, anyone with field experience is welcome to PM or email me or Marsh with design input.

Thanks folks!
I'll find out from Jerry if it's ok to post our FrankenBusse's here.
 
if you can post the pictures with a description of what you want done to them, I know there's at least 5 guys on here who could do almost anything and make it look good.

I know what I like in a knife, but I don't know what the parameters your looking for regarding "tactical vest knife". you'll have to be fairly specific, length, height, type of grind, height of grind, tip type, edge geometry (wide curve, small belly, straight edge), type of handle, type of guard (single, double, small, large) etc etc etc.
 
Thanks LVC, will do. I'm looking forward to it. I just need to find out from Jerry if it's OK for this to be a forum adventure, or if it needs to be kept offline for the time being.
 
I'm not entirely sure I am following what you have in mind, but it seems that if you took the best features of an HG55 (top) and combined them with the new SRKW Vexillaris (3rd & 4th down), you might have your animal...Maybe? :)

DSC_3827.jpg
Image credit: dfcrane

Maybe move the talon hole/guard to the blade side of the choil on the HG55 with no vertical CBT, put a bit of downward curve in it like the flipper guard on an XM-18 (5th & 6th knives down) but less curve than this example, and move the guard & choil down past the ricasso into the handle, take a little length of the blade (with minimal edge length lost due to sliding the choil back) and a bit off the handle, blend the handle styles of these 2 knives together somewhat to ergonomically melt into the hand with a bit of palm swell around the middle tube fastener, and thin the stock down to the requested thickness (.170"-.190"). Just a thought, but I don't have Photoshop, so I can't try to express my thought with an image chop, sorry. Rat? ...a little help?? :D:thumbup:

I did also notice that a modification to the skull crusher butt of a Meaner Street was mentioned and perhaps one more like this in the pic below might serve well for a hole punch to start your wall cut (might take some stress off the tip of the blade for repeated wall stabbings?) as well as a possible glass breaker.

CupidGanza_76b.jpg


If these ideas aren't what you are looking for, then I hope that they help in some way to get the creative thoughts flowing on your project... :thumbup:

 
Not a photochop but maybe the blade to start on:
busse-shiva-rex.jpg


It's the Shiva Rex, details here: LINK

From what I understand these were designed for stabbing. You may want to beef up the thickness and put a bigger quillon/front guard on this. As for needing it to be grippy you can always use`ToolDip' over the handle or get it rehandled with horse stall mats. I know a few guys who do the chopping contests use this stuff.
 
We're going to take this one off line with JWBirch.

We will work up some designs and see if we can't hit the mark.

Thanks all,

Jerry :D
 
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