Need Recomendations On Buying a General Purpose (Multipurpose) Machete

Ogien

Ogien

Joined
Jan 30, 2012
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233
Hey guys, I've decided that I want/need a good, all around most multipurpose, machete. By multipurpose I mean it's primarily for clearing brush but can be used for other tasks and be fairly easy to carry.

I'm looking to spend as little money as possible and I'm likely to search eBay or Amazon or other websites for it. Not too many knife stores with knowledgeable people in my area.

So I'm thinking that a standard design, the first thing that pops into one's mind when the word machete is mentioned.

I need it to be able to clear through brush and some tree limbs but also be useful for defense as well as other miscellaneous blade related activities.

This will be my first REAL machete. What I mean by that is that I've had cheapies before when I was a teenager, they would bend and dis-shape upon striking the thinnest branches. So now you know what I don't want.

So having said all that, what would you guys recommend? I don't mind a longer machete but I don't want it to be sword like to the point where it's unwieldy for more detail oriented tasks like chopping food or whatever else. I'm not really going to use it to prepare food with it, that was just an example of a detail oriented task more or less.
 
The typical "all-around" pattern in the "Latin" or "Bush" pattern. It's the classic machete shape, as it were, and the most typically selected length is 18" because it affords excellent reach and chopping ability without becoming an entanglement. in dense brush. For an inexpensive model to start, I suggest either an 18" Tramontina "Bush" machete, or an 18" Condor Eco-Survivor. The Tramontina does not come with a sheath, but will fit any generic, commonly available 18" machete sheath. The Condor comes with a heavyweight nylon canvas sheath.

The Condor comes from the factory with a nice thin and polished convex edge on it, and the injection molded handle is EXTREMELY comfortable. Tramontina machetes typically come with grinds that run out near the tip (meaning the last 2 inches are simply as stamped and completely unground) a slightly rounded tip, and scales that sit proud of the tang. However, with elbow grease, they are a damn fine machete. While you can find stock models for cheaper elsewhere, I offer Tramontinas with the handles sanded flush with the tang, the spine squared, edge ground, convexed, and polished, and the tip reshaped to fine. Either would serve you very well indeed.

Once you play around with a quality 18" Bush/Latin pattern you may find that you start finding particular targets, situations, or preferences that will guide you towards a more specialized or tuned-in pattern.

Hope that helps! :)

Ogien said:
Hey guys, I've decided that I want/need a good, all around most multipurpose, machete. By multipurpose I mean it's primarily for clearing brush but can be used for other tasks and be fairly easy to carry.

I'm looking to spend as little money as possible and I'm likely to search eBay or Amazon or other websites for it. Not too many knife stores with knowledgeable people in my area.

So I'm thinking that a standard design, the first thing that pops into one's mind when the word machete is mentioned.

I need it to be able to clear through brush and some tree limbs but also be useful for defense as well as other miscellaneous blade related activities.

This will be my first REAL machete. What I mean by that is that I've had cheapies before when I was a teenager, they would bend and dis-shape upon striking the thinnest branches. So now you know what I don't want.

So having said all that, what would you guys recommend? I don't mind a longer machete but I don't want it to be sword like to the point where it's unwieldy for more detail oriented tasks like chopping food or whatever else. I'm not really going to use it to prepare food with it, that was just an example of a detail oriented task more or less.
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Can you put an edge on what ever you buy, or should it come sharp?
Do you care what handle material? Plastic, micarta, or wood?
I'm thinking you want a 14"-16" long blade. If you get an 18", it should be thin.

As cheap as possible? Tramontina comes to mind, then Marbles. But, you should look at Imacasa, Condor, and Ontario just so you see what's available.
Condor machetes come very sharp and they have nice sheaths, ready to go out of the box. Tram's, Imacasa, and Ontario's will all need a good amount of work on the edge's just to have a cutting tool.
You should also use the search function to read other threads about machetes. There's lots of info already discussed on other threads.
 
foxx said:
Can you put an edge on what ever you buy, or should it come sharp?
Do you care what handle material? Plastic, micarta, or wood?
I'm thinking you want a 14"-16" long blade. If you get an 18", it should be thin.

As cheap as possible? Tramontina comes to mind, then Marbles. But, you should look at Imacasa, Condor, and Ontario just so you see what's available.
Condor machetes come very sharp and they have nice sheaths, ready to go out of the box. Tram's, Imacasa, and Ontario's will all need a good amount of work on the edge's just to have a cutting tool.
You should also use the search function to read other threads about machetes. There's lots of info already discussed on other threads.
Click to expand...

Personally I think you need the longer length (16"-18") in order to get a good feel for the tool class, as the dynamics of a machete only start to "speak" to you loudly when you cross the 16" line. Once you've learned how to listen to the tool tell you how it wants to be used, then smaller and longer models start to become more viable. If you don't know how to throw the snap of the blade a 14" or 12" machete (of average thickness--i.e. anything less than 1/8") will be nothing more than a thin knife in your hands and won't chop well because your technique isn't developed enough. If you haven't learned control and proper safety, such as how to predict the likely path of travel the blade will follow during a deflected blow, a longer blade (20"-24"+) will be dangerous, cumbersome, and unwieldy. Once you learn how they move they become terrifyingly efficient.

To my mind 16"-18" is the perfect middleground to learn the basics of the tool. Feel free to disagree, though! I'm not infallible by any means. :)
 
@FortyTwoBlades, yes that is very helpful. Thank you.

@foxx, yes I can put a fine edge on just about anything. If need be I can make it so that Machete will shave arm hair at the very least.

Going to look up the Tramontina and I expect that Marbles is going to somewhat more expensive. Condor I'm not familiar with so I'll be looking that up to as well as the Ontario.

I'm thinking you're right about a slightly shorter machete being a great fit all and I agree that a thin blade is probably preferable as the ones I've owned and bent were all quite thick and apparently made of crappy metal.

@fortytwoblades. I like the idea of a 16" as it should be long enough to cut through brush but not so long that it is uncomfortable to carry in a sheath or some sort. Not sure if the Machete's mentioned so far come with a sheath or not.
 
if you find yourself in woodland, suggest a strong chopper (like those with flat/square tips) that can take the place of a hatchet. if you're in tropical jungle, a lighter one with a pointed tip and sharp edge with recurve/belly that you can use for different things: skinning, chopping, whittling, slashing grass and vines, etc.
 
You guys ever hear or know anything about Martin Machete's which are made in Belgium? I'm only asking because there's an interesting WWII era machete on eBay that looks kind of cool but would obviously need a brand new edge made from scratch and I don't know if I'd want to damage a vintage machete. Then again, it was made with a purpose in mind so it would be silly not to use it perhaps.
 
hank_rearden said:
if you're in tropical jungle, a lighter one with a pointed tip and sharp edge with recurve/belly that you can use for different things: skinning, chopping, whittling, slashing grass and vines, etc.
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Now that type you've captured my attention with. I'd like something that can handle most environments, I'm not going to be in the jungle or even any place too far from civilization but the fact that it can be used for skinning, whittling etc. definitely sound interesting to me. Any makes that you like or would recommend that are on the inexpensive side of the spectrum?

Looking on eBay it would seem that Machete's, over all, are not all that expensive to start with so hopefully I can find something I like and not break my exhausted bank account.

brandonc said:
Cold Steel comes to mind for valuable machetes. They use 1055 carbon steel, which is very tough. Never go for stainless with a big knife.

http://www.m4040.com/Knifemaking/REVIEWS/FieldBladeReview-ColdSteelKuk.htm
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Now that's a mean looking son of a gun. I'm actually a fan of many Cold Steel knives but they bounce around in price from reasonable to way expensive. Will have to look that one up too.
 
I've seen/head about them but never handled one. They look quite nice from photos and seem to be worth around the $60 mark in very good condition when there's a couple of interested buyers duking it out.

Marbles' machetes are contracted through Imacasa, which is Condor's parent company. Standard Imacasas come in the roughest degree of finish (rough ground "edge" scuff marks on blade and handle, wooden scales not flush with tang) followed by Marbles' (pained blade, polished edge, unfinished scales) followed by Condor (theoretically ready to go out of the box.) All are fantastic quality. Marbles' models have optional nylon sheaths, but they do not come with the machete unless the vendor bundles them that way. Condor models come with either a high grade nylon sheath (only a few models) or a super high-grade leather one.

If you plan on doing much skinning or whittling with a machete that's where the 12"-14" models begin to shine. But until you get used to the dynamics of how to truly use a machete you'll most likely end up using it the same way you would a knife and experience sub-par results compared to what's possible. It'll still do a nice job, but your training wheels will come off later due to the tool not being as obvious in the way it wants to be used.

Cold Steel machetes are nice tools, but have abysmal over-ground, often mangled, hollow edges from the factory so you have to work the edge mack a bit to clean them up and get to the steel that hasn't been heat damaged. Also, since they're 1055 they have lower edge retention compared to the 1075 found in Tramontina and Imacasa/Marbles'/Condor so just bear that in mind. The Kukri Machete is a nice piece of work though I find the handle texturing to be a blister machine. Fix it by buffing it gently with some 400/600 grit sandpaper.

:)
 
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^^
can't recommend any brand but you have alot of them when you image-google jungle/survival machete. anything from a golok-style to one that looks like a spartan kopis, to kukri-style blades.

in southeast asia, farmers use a right-side chisel grind for their goloks for ease of sharpening and maximum sharpness. they don't chop hard wood a lot but slash through jungle foliage often. they make the chisel grind bite into the target by backhanding the blade at vines and grasses. for chopping an upright piece of wood, chopping is done 45 degrees downward from right to left. the recurve near the handle is good for carving during carpentry; whereas the entire blade can be used as a hand plane by holding the handle with your right and pushing the blade forward with the left holding the blade spine (if you want to use it as a draw knife, hold it in reverse with the handle in your left hand and pulling the blade in with both hands.)
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
If you plan on doing much skinning or whittling with a machete that's where the 12"-14" models begin to shine. But until you get used to the dynamics of how to truly use a machete you'll most likely end up using it the same way you would a knife and experience sub-par results compared to what's possible. It'll still do a nice job, but your training wheels will come off later due to the tool not being as obvious in the way it wants to be used.

Cold Steel machetes are nice tools, but have abysmal over-ground, often mangled, hollow edges from the factory so you have to work the edge mack a bit to clean them up and get to the steel that hasn't been heat damaged. Also, since they're 1055 they have lower edge retention compared to the 1075 found in Tramontina and Imacasa/Marbles'/Condor so just bear that in mind. The Kukri Machete is a nice piece of work though I find the handle texturing to be a blister machine. Fix it by buffing it gently with some 400/600 grit sandpaper.

:)
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I agree with you, I first need to get the basics of the Machete down before I start thinking about multi-purpose things. Taking on too much at once will result, just like you said, in me handling it like I would a large knife and that's not what I want to do. I want my machete to really shine primarily at dealing with tree limbs, branches and brush. Everything else can wait since I've got a very large (by most folks standards) knife collection and they are in all sorts of shapes and sizes.

In other words, perhaps I need to focus on learning to use a machete for what it was initially intended and later I can think about multi-purpose things.

The idea of having a machete that is as efficient as you guys claim they can be sound very appealing to me and that's what I need to learn. I'm use to working with a variety of tools and I understand what it means to listen to what the tool is telling me so I think I can hear what the machete is telling me after some practice.
 
If you want it to mostly be tackling tree limbs, branches, and brush then between 16"-20" is usually best. There are some exceptions at either end of the size spectrum, however. The Tramontina bolo at 14" is one example. The extra tip mass helps make the dynamic mimic that of a longer blade without such a swell. It also concentrates the mass to shift the sweet spot forward towards the tip. This comes at the expense of the point, however, so even with reshaping you still have a fairly obtuse tip geometry.
 
Any opinions on the following machete?

Tramontina Brazil bush machete 18" blade 1070 carbon steel machete

The thing about this one is that it looks quite presentable, it's in the length range that you guys are recommending and it's fairly inexpensive so I would think it's perfect for learning on since even if I damage it somehow I won't be out a whole lot of cash.
 
That's one of the ones I recommended, actually. It would do great for ya'. :)
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
That's one of the ones I recommended, actually. It would do great for ya'. :)
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Thanks FortyTowBlades, that's all I needed to hear. Going to order it right now, it looks like what I had in mind anyway and I'm looking forward to getting acquainted with this tool. Thanks.
 
happy swinging. my last advice: don't swing more than 30 degrees in any direction. focus your 'ki' on the edge sweet spot to transmit the cutting force, even if the blade travels a scant 12 inches. a light grip is used whereas body mechanics from your hips, stomach and shoulders will provide the cutting force (similar to the principle of cutting with a katana.)
 
hank_rearden said:
happy swinging. my last advice: don't swing more than 30 degrees in any direction. focus your 'ki' on the edge sweet spot to transmit the cutting force, even if the blade travels a scant 12 inches. a light grip is used whereas body mechanics from your hips, stomach and shoulders will provide the cutting force (similar to the principle of cutting with a katana.)
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So never swing directly straight down? I've never cut brush w a Katana but have had the opportunity to do some practice with one along with cutting through those wet mats that simulate a human neck
 
Ogien said:
Any opinions on the following machete?

Tramontina Brazil bush machete 18" blade 1070 carbon steel machete

The thing about this one is that it looks quite presentable, it's in the length range that you guys are recommending and it's fairly inexpensive so I would think it's perfect for learning on since even if I damage it somehow I won't be out a whole lot of cash.
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I own one and would choose to take it in a tough spot, over any other blade I own. Cost me more to ship it than to buy it, and its been through the wringer.

Moose
 
Moosez45 said:
I own one and would choose to take it in a tough spot, over any other blade I own. Cost me more to ship it than to buy it, and its been through the wringer.

Moose
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That is one hell of an endorsement, I'm glad I bought it. Even if I overpaid I still think I got a great deal. I'll just spit it out, I paid $19.99 on eBay and shipping was included in that price. I think that is a price that would be hard to beat.

I'm guessing that this machete doesn't come with a great sharp edge out of the box so I'm suspecting that I'll have to spend some time sharpening it before using it?

Here's a question, how sharp is a machete supposed to be? Make it sharp as a knife? I'm thinking that such a fine edge would bend upon impact with hard plant matter but I could be wrong. Or should it be sharp like a meat cleaver which goes through bone and meat with a duller edge but with far more mass pushing it onward.
 
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