Need some dissassembly Info on Gerber Covert Folder

pwerfel

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Jul 14, 2009
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Folks,

was given a gerber fairbairn applegate covert several years ago.. There is some rust in the liners that I wish to remove. I have taken every single screw out of both sides of the handle and cannot get it apart.

It almost seems as if the spacer is glued to both sides of the handles.

Any ideas?

Best
P
 
if you have every screw out then it should come apart. the rust might be holding it together. i reground one last fall for a member but i never took it apart.

if you are not able to get it apart, send me an email with your number and i'll give you a call. talking would save us some typing. rje196021@gmail.com
 
If this is the one with the FRN handles (Fiberglass Reinforced Nylon), it wouldn't surprise me if the the spacer is glued or epoxied in. I have one in black FRN (can't seem to find it at the moment), and both the handles and spacer are synthetic. Don't see how rust could make that stick together.


David
 
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i have seen rust stick recessed cut scales in place before from the rust expanding. if they are epoxied in place, the handle can be stuck in boiling water to loosen up the epoxy or glue.
 
Some questions:

1. Did you encounter any Loctited threads, when removing the screws (especially the pivot)?
2. Is the blade removed yet, or still bound between the handles?
3. I'm still assuming yours is the synthetic handle (not metallic, in other words)?

Reason I ask is, I found mine and might attempt disassembly of it. Hoping not to create any new issues (stripping screws, etc.) in the process. Mine is clean, essentially new & unused, so there shouldn't be any rust issues to (possibly) get in the way of disassembly. Should be obvious if the handles are glued or otherwise stuck to the spacer, once the screws are out. From what I can see, there's only one pair of screws positioned to possibly penetrate the spacer (one screw head seen on each side) near the butt of the handle on the spine side, just forward of the lanyard hole. No other hardware appears to be holding/stabilizing the spacer, which itself extends more than half the length of the handle, from the butt forward. This further makes me believe it's glued/epoxied/heat-welded in place. All other screws appear to be holding liners to the scales (five short screws on each side; two of those also secure the pocket clip), and the ends of them stop short of the blade well, inside. And, of course there's the pivot screw.

Here's a vendor pic from knifecenter; this one looks just like the one I have:

GB5785.jpg



David
 
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Thanks for all the info..

Boiled the knife for 15 minutes and the handles are not going anywhere.... Oh well...


Best


Paul
 
Thanks for all the info..

Boiled the knife for 15 minutes and the handles are not going anywhere.... Oh well...


Best


Paul

After looking at mine, I'm not surprised. Looks like it was built to stay together. However the spacer is bonded to the handles, I don't think any non-destructive means will separate them.

Might be worth a call/email to Gerber's customer support. They might be able to suggest how the liners can be cleaned up. Might even be able to send it in for a factory refurb, though I don't know if warranty will cover it. Might charge a small fee, but it couldn't hurt to ask, anyway.


David
 
Called gerber warranty, told them the knife is 12 year old. at that time the 120 was high end for a folder. He said to mail it in, they will get rid of rust on liner or replace the knife.

Mailing it on Friday and will let you all know

Thanks

P
 
Called gerber warranty, told them the knife is 12 year old. at that time the 120 was high end for a folder. He said to mail it in, they will get rid of rust on liner or replace the knife.

Mailing it on Friday and will let you all know

Thanks

P

Good deal. That is great customer service. Hope they can restore the knife for you...
 
Called gerber warranty, told them the knife is 12 year old. at that time the 120 was high end for a folder. He said to mail it in, they will get rid of rust on liner or replace the knife.

Mailing it on Friday and will let you all know

Thanks

P

I understand the 'high end' characterization of this knife. I have never really used mine for anything; it was one of those that I bought years ago, due to some aesthetic appeal more than anything practical (for my uses). After digging mine out and re-examining it though, there are many things about it that seem well-done (strong detent keeping the blade secure when closed, good 154CM steel, excellent edge grind, good ergos, very 'solid' feel). Nice knife in-hand, and one of the few of theirs that's still USA-made.

It's good to know that Gerber still provides first-rate support for it (hopefully, assuming it's to your satisfaction). :thumbup:


David
 
Can I redirect this discussion a bit? I took my Covert Folder apart all the way, after ten years in my waistband, and it didn't go back together quite right. If I tighten the caps on the main pivot point enough so the blade doesn't rattle, the side-lock spring can't move out and get behind the base of the blade and lock the knife. Looking in at the threaded metal bushing, the axle if you will, that the caps screw into on each side, it seems not to be centered perfectly on the side of the knife where the side-lock is located, one side of the bushing sort of disappearing under the hole in the handle, so that, naturally, the more I tighten the cap on that side, the more the blade torques around sideways until it is drawn down so far that it gets in the way of the side-lock spring. I mean the tolerances there are very tiny. You'd think with so few pieces it'd be impossible to reassemble it wrong. But an hour and a half of frustration and I quit, glad just to have it working at all lock-wise and despite the new play in the blade. I've sent an inquiry to Gerber, but this is imposing on them, I know. Checking over what I wrote, I wonder if I switched the bushing around (it only goes in one end first, microscopically wider than the other end) and put it in from the other side, that non-centering might be away from where it can drag the blade out of being perfectly aligned in the handle so the side-lock slips out and locks the opened blade properly. But, reading that over, it doesn't seem that it would help, and I think I already tried it. Thank you.
 
And now I'd like to retract that redirection. As I just explained in an email to Gerber cancelling my warranty inquiry, I saw that all you people had been disassembling and reassembling your knives. Without any plan in mind except to check everything, like that bushing being left or right handed (it turns out it isn't, and goes in either end first), I eventually put a flat-blade screwdriver in and forced the spring over behind the blade, plus a spot of grease, worked it a few times like that and now it mostly goes over on its own. It only ever just caught the edge of the blade, I think, so that forcing it all the way across with the screwdriver seated everything, ground off any burrs I'd caused, and now it's nice and tight again. Sorry for the trouble. Like I said to Gerber, obviously I had never really gotten to know my knife, which is partly what training is for. The other part is to learn to control your day-dreaming, also known as panic.
 
Checkout STR video on his blog that he showed fixing a lock of the same Gerber. The spacer IIRC is part of one of the handle slab.
[Youtube]lQ_alRnX324[/Youtube]
 
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