Need Some Help On a Folder!!

L6steel

L6steel

Joined
Sep 23, 1999
Messages
5,855
<img src=http://members.aol.com/it14/ebay/hunter.jpg> This is how far I've gotten on my first folder. It's 100% ats-34, even the spacer. I like integral bolstered folders so I milled the frames from 3/16" stock. The blades are hollow ground 1/8".
Heres the back of the knife.
<img src=http://members.aol.com/it14/ebay/hunter2.jpg>
I went ahead and sanded the springs and all flush, even tho I should have asked first if you're supposed to do that before or after heat treat. One question I do have is, are you supposed to cut the choils in the blades before heat treat or after?? I started to cut them before, but it seems like it would put the edge under some stress when quenching. Also, since the frames are ats-34, I am going to have them heat treated too. Should I round off the bosters before I send them to heat treat? Thanks for any tips, praise, or critisism you might have that will help me make the next one better. I will post some pix when it's finished. I'm torn between stag and mammoth ivory for the handles, what do you think??Take care!! Michael


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http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
"Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"

[This message has been edited by L6STEEL (edited 02-25-2000).]
 
L6,

Looking Good.
biggrin.gif


I have not made any slip joint folders but it looks like you are headed in the right direction.

You can round off the bolsters before or after heat treat. It might take a minute more if you do it after it is hardened.

You might have to sand everything flush after
it is hardened anyway.

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Barry
Jones Knives

Do you hear that?
That is the sound of inevitability.

[This message has been edited by BARRY JONES (edited 02-25-2000).]
 
Wow! This will be one heavy knife. It looks really good for a first try. I wish that my first one had looked so good. Ats is an air hardening steel, so stress is not really a big factor. I don't know who is going to do the heat treatment, but most commercial heat treaters use atmosphere controlled ovens. It really doesn't matter if you polish the parts or not. But, ats is alot easier to sand when it is soft. If you use a commercial heat treater, do as much as you can before heat treatment.If not, sand to about 150 grit. Makes a nice finish with no heat treatment pits. Be sure to slightly bend your spring before heat treatment.
 
Thanks Rocket!!! I would never have thought to bend the springs. I guess I'll go ahead and finish it as much as possible before I send it to heat treat. Thanks Barry!! Take care! Michael

------------------ http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!


[This message has been edited by L6STEEL (edited 02-25-2000).]
 
Thats great! You'll get no help from me on the tecnical aspects od folder construction but when I looked at your pics my artistic side says mammoth or mastodon ivory, or even walrus!
Do you intend the scales to be flush with the bolsters or to swell slightly?
I never thought about it but do you work the scales on a folder just like you would on a fixed blade, that is, do you fix oversized scales on then then work them down or do you
work them to the proper size then attach them?-Guy T.
 
wow, looking good. that mill comes in handy doesn't it! good idea to make the whole thing out of ats-34, now i know who to ask what to do when making a folder.
 
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