need some help or im trading it

budazz

budazz

Joined
Feb 27, 2013
Messages
273
got a bk4 in a trade (was wanting a 9) but any way i sanded it up real nice buffed out all the tool marks from the factory started working on a natural patina and realized it was pretty dull after all of that...i cant get this thing to sharpen worth a crap..not that its not a great knife i just cannot sharpen a recurve blade of this magnitude...tried lansky sharpener tried flat stones tried sand paper..i cant get the motion right..should i take it to a professional and have them do it? or any one have a different method i can try? i think i may be better off with a straight blade :(
 
Try a Norton India round edge slip stone and/or a ceramic rod. :thumbup:
 
I always tell people that trade knows his shit.
Just the other day, he opened my eyes to the wonderful world of reusable rabbits.
 
you need some determination and perseverance

by the way, what kinda sharpness are you expecting?
 
Mathias888 said:
you need some determination and perseverance

by the way, what kinda sharpness are you expecting?
Click to expand...

nothing insane just a 20 degree decent working edge
i did some playing last night after trade said get some round stones and glued some sand paper to some wooden dowels and it worked pretty good thanks Trade for the idea.
 
I use a finger-grinder... you know, the kind with half-inch wide belt out the front..
Handheld cheapo... works wonders om any recurve...
Plusside is that you automatically get a nice convex grind...
 
that steel eagle with the mini in it is pretty cool...im a becker man for fixed blades and i already have one in the 7 inch mark
 
Here's something I rigged up to convex the edges of my recurves.

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The dowels are drilled for a 20degree angle. For a V grind I don't use the leather and just the sandpaper and dowel. For a convex I use the leather covers.

For a V grind I hold the knife 90 degrees and slide it from top to bottom in slicing motion.

For a convex grind I do the same thing but pull from bottom to top and angle the blade depending on how thin I wish to make the edge.
 
That is about as interesting a sharpening set up as I have ever seen! Very cool! I just use an Idahone... I have a worksharp ken onion, but I am not sure I am too pleased with it yet.
 
budazz said:
nothing insane just a 20 degree decent working edge
i did some playing last night after trade said get some round stones and glued some sand paper to some wooden dowels and it worked pretty good thanks Trade for the idea.
Click to expand...
I end up using one brown Sharpmaker rod in a kitchen-style sharpening-steel motion for my machetes, lawnmower blades, and other big blades. I had never thought of gluing up dowels with sandpaper - great idea!
 
Depends on what needs to get done. If I need to fix a really damaged edge I'll start with 150 and work my way up to 2000. If I have just lost a working edge but there are no pits or chips I'll do a 400, 600,800, 1000, 2000. If its got a working edge but I want it a little sharper and I just need to hone the edge a little I'll just do a few passes of 1000 and 2000.
 
That is a very cool set up TBL. I think I need to swipe that. :thumbup:
 
Sounds like you've got it figured out now! :thumbup: I've used sandpaper over an old strip of leather, sandpaper on a dowel and then my flat stones for the belly and tip. You should see the curls you can pull up using it as a draw knife with a nice razor edge.

TBL said:
Here's something I rigged up to convex the edges of my recurves. .
Click to expand...
That is pretty cool. I'm going to squirrel away one of those pictures back in the archives for when I have a work space someday.
 
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