Need some high end sharpening/stropping advice, K03 with diamond stones & Gunny Juice.

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zanemoseley

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Nov 23, 2014
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Recently got a Tsprof K03 and love it but need some guidance on really getting top quality results and help develop good habits. I've already done some 15 degree edges on a Benchmade mini Griptillian and a Henckel chef knife that came out pretty darn nice, currently working on reprofiling and sharpening/polishing a Henckel santoku knife to 10 degrees.

I've got the Venev Orion diamond stones in 80, 150, 240, 400, 800, 1200 and 1500. Last night I ordered the Edge Pro 2300 and 4000 grit Matrix diamond stones and 6000 grit tape with a blank. I also ordered 1 micron and .25 micron Gunny Juice Poly Diamond Suspension. On the previous blades I started trying to strop with Dialux on a cowhide strop on aluminum backer for the K03, I hated how hard the Dialux was to apply, seemed more at home on a powered buffing wheel. I think the Gunny Juice will be more user friendly and probably a higher quality product.

Currently the santoku has been worked up to the 1500 grit Venev stone, been using a magnified inspection lamp to try and make sure I get the last grit lines out before moving up. Should I just continue with the 2300 & 4000 grit stones as I've been doing with water to lubricate? Then go to the tape with no lube? I was thinking of using water with the tape (like wet sanding) but a video I saw on Youtube the guy didn't use water on tapes.

I've still got 2 brand new leather strops and ordered a nanocloth strop to try as well. I read with the Gunny Juice you apply to the strop and let dry before stropping. With my previous attempts I had a bad time with the leather strop getting cut even with just downward passes, perhaps it was my technique around the heel and tip or too much pressure.

I've also seen where some people put a micro bevel on the edge with their last grit. I assume this is optional and maybe better suited to EDC style knives. Do you guys put micro bevels on any kitchen knives as well?

I realize I'm going pretty high on the final polish. Not really doing this for a business, just personal enjoyment so can take plenty of time on it. Thanks in advance for any advice you guys might have.
 
The Edge Pro stones use a different grit rating than the Venev’s and are actually coarser than what you already have. The 2300 is around 8 micron, the 4000 around 5 micron. The 1200 Venev is 3 micron, the 1500 is 2 micron. Here is a chart that lists all the various stones and their grit ratings. Unified Grit Chart
 
Thanks a bunch. I thought I was going in the right direction but not. My FEPA-F 1500 is 2.00 micron. I will keep my other order for the 1 micron and .25 micron stropping compound. I wish the stones would just be rated in microns. Luckily I was able to cancel my EP order.

Still open to advice especially on the stropping process.
 
If your leather strop was getting damaged or cut from trailing passes, there was most likely still large burr on the edge or it was being drawn towards the blade. Trailing strokes only should leave the strop untouched/perfect.

As mentioned the post above: Venev and EP stones use a different grit rating system. Unless you are going for a mirror edge, the Venev 1200 and then Gunny Juice 1 micron on a leather strop is more than sufficient for a nice working edge. Let the juice dry first.

A 15 degree angle is pretty acute for an EDC pocket carry knife. Easier to take damage and roll. 18-20 degrees per side is more the norm.
 
I've gone to a balsa wood strop with gunny juice. I think I get better results than what I did with kangaroo. Really light pressure is best for me
 
zanemoseley said:
I read with the Gunny Juice you apply to the strop and let dry before stropping
Click to expand...

SpaceGhost88 said:
Let the juice dry first.
Click to expand...
I don't have any gunny juice, so can't comment on how to apply it. But i have some other diamond spray and like all compounds/sprays applied to a leather strop less is better. I do one light spray then let it dry overnight then repeat, i have had good success with this method, but as i say Gunny juice may have a different method of application. Good luck.
 
Thanks guys. I wanted to try a balsa strop too but Gritomatic was out of stock. I'll try the new leather strops and nanocloth one with the gunny juice and see what I can do. I'll try to take my time more and use very light pressure. I can't imagine I'll have much of a burr on edge as I've got at least 3 hours in it so far. I'll try to report back after I've given it a go.
 
I found a pack of balsa wood pieces at hobby lobby for $14. They're 3/8 thick, and I just cut to size. Then I sanded the one side smooth with 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 grit sand paper. Checked them with a caliber to make sure they're the same thickness from one end to the other. It's easy to do, and I have enough strops to last me a couple of lifetimes. I did get usa made, kiln dried. I don't know if the cheap stuff would warp over time or not.

I used a small paint brush I had laying around to apply the gunny juice. That's the method he recommends. I only did one application, and it drys fast. Some leathers might absorb more???
 
I could try that. I'm keeping the aluminum backer off the leather strops I damaged to reuse. Might be able to find balsa online that is already the correct thickness.
 
I looked online too, but couldn't find the right size. I used a fine tooth saw to cut across the grain and a exacto knive to cut with the grain. I wasn't sure how it was going to turn out, but it's pretty easy to work with. I have a stone thickness compensator so I wasn't worried about that part of it.
 
I use these 1/4" x 1" x 36" balsa strips, sanded with 2000 grit. Cut them to 6" lengths and I don't even have to adjust the angle when switching over from my Venev stones, since they're the same height.

www.billandwalt.com

Balsa Wood 1/4 x 1 x 36" 1079 | Billandwalt

FEATURES: Ideal for all types of modeling projects such airplanes, boats, model railroading and miniaturesCuts easily with a hobby knifeUnfinished wood may be easily stained or paintedUse a Sealer to seal the wood before painting.
www.billandwalt.com www.billandwalt.com

I also bought some 3" x 1" bass wood to use for bench strops.
 
3D Anvil said:
I use these 1/4" x 1" x 36" balsa strips, sanded with 2000 grit. Cut them to 6" lengths and I don't even have to adjust the angle when switching over from my Venev stones, since they're the same height.

www.billandwalt.com

Balsa Wood 1/4 x 1 x 36" 1079 | Billandwalt

FEATURES: Ideal for all types of modeling projects such airplanes, boats, model railroading and miniaturesCuts easily with a hobby knifeUnfinished wood may be easily stained or paintedUse a Sealer to seal the wood before painting.
www.billandwalt.com www.billandwalt.com

I also bought some 3" x 1" bass wood to use for bench strops.
Click to expand...


+1 I buy them at my local hardware store or HobbyLobby. You get a lot more for your money if you make your own.
 
Had better luck this time, used the 1m Gunny on a new leather strop with aluminum backer for the K03 then the .25m Gunny on a nanocloth strop. Didn't cut either one but just used downstrokes. I noticed on one Youtube video a guy used down strokes for a bit then went both directions. What do you guys do? Really trying to not trash these new strops.
 
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