Need Spyerdco Sharpmaker Advice

Centuriator

Centuriator

Joined
Jun 7, 2020
Messages
462
My main "problem" is that I've always been a "if a little is good, more is better" kind of guy.

I think I've been "bearing down" too hard on my SharpMaker rods, and I'm particularly concerned with the diamond rods. I've been taking it easy, but it feels like I'm scraping my blade against a concrete block.

I know I need to NOT apply too much pressure, but how much is too much?

I have the complete set of rods: Diamond, to what comes with it, to extra fine.

Suggestions and advice are welcome. Thank you.
 
Centuriator said:
My main "problem" is that I've always been a "if a little is good, more is better" kind of guy.

I think I've been "bearing down" too hard on my SharpMaker rods, and I'm particularly concerned with the diamond rods. I've been taking it easy, but it feels like I'm scraping my blade against a concrete block.

I know I need to NOT apply too much pressure, but how much is too much?

I have the complete set of rods: Diamond, to what comes with it, to extra fine.

Suggestions and advice are welcome. Thank you.
Click to expand...

Hi
You can get longevity on your sharpmaker cbn/diamonds if you stick to under 1/2 pound of force on the flats of the triangles, thats all you need.


You can see actual sharpening here
Cutting off the edge (esp a LOT) to get a reflection is optional
Here you can see the Doctor demonstrate the technique
He also shows how you can get a 15 degree microbevel by wedging
You can see a demonstration of ultra light short finishing strokes , 5-10 grams
Spyderco Sharpmaker Cubic Boron Nitride Rods : first look - Cliff Stamp

More copy/paste reading material below ;)

Efficient grinding reprofiling with sharpmaker 1-3 minutes * 10 steps = 10-30 minutes total to drop angle from 20 degrees per side to 15 degrees in half degree steps , Reprofiling/Sharpening CPM 3V? - Page 2 - Spyderco Forums


For more detailed/advanced sharpmaker debugging steps see Sharpening Curriculum / Trouble sharpening super blue - Spyderco Forums

See Diamond vs CBN rods grit - Spyderco Forums and CBN Rods - Spyderco Forums

So the spyderco sharpmaker cbn SP204CBN rods/stones are about same grit as diamonds, 400 mesh , or 40 microns or P360 or J400

Apparently CBN rods aren't any harder to damage than diamonds , just use them dry with high force :)

see CBN Rods - Page 7 - Spyderco Forums
Diamond rods inferior to CBN rods? - Spyderco Forums

a quote light force, 1/2 lbs but small contact area meant the pressure was high 10-20 psi this translates to 226.8 grams , this is on the flats not the corners of triangles
 
Go easy, and learn the sharpie "trick," and be patient. You are not going to do anything fast on a sharpmaker, except mess up your knife.
 
image.jpg Like cutting the sticker off an apple (amount of force needed)
Gentle like on a third date
 
bucketstove said:
Hi
You can get longevity on your sharpmaker cbn/diamonds if you stick to under 1/2 pound of force on the flats of the triangles, thats all you need.


You can see actual sharpening here
Cutting off the edge (esp a LOT) to get a reflection is optional
Here you can see the Doctor demonstrate the technique
He also shows how you can get a 15 degree microbevel by wedging
You can see a demonstration of ultra light short finishing strokes , 5-10 grams
Spyderco Sharpmaker Cubic Boron Nitride Rods : first look - Cliff Stamp

More copy/paste reading material below ;)

Efficient grinding reprofiling with sharpmaker 1-3 minutes * 10 steps = 10-30 minutes total to drop angle from 20 degrees per side to 15 degrees in half degree steps , Reprofiling/Sharpening CPM 3V? - Page 2 - Spyderco Forums


For more detailed/advanced sharpmaker debugging steps see Sharpening Curriculum / Trouble sharpening super blue - Spyderco Forums

See Diamond vs CBN rods grit - Spyderco Forums and CBN Rods - Spyderco Forums

So the spyderco sharpmaker cbn SP204CBN rods/stones are about same grit as diamonds, 400 mesh , or 40 microns or P360 or J400

Apparently CBN rods aren't any harder to damage than diamonds , just use them dry with high force :)

see CBN Rods - Page 7 - Spyderco Forums
Diamond rods inferior to CBN rods? - Spyderco Forums

a quote light force, 1/2 lbs but small contact area meant the pressure was high 10-20 psi this translates to 226.8 grams , this is on the flats not the corners of triangles
Click to expand...


Thanks!!! Excellent stuff.
 
I don't have the coars rods just the medium, fine and ultra fine but I imagine it's not much different in technique, I always open the angle a little since using the sharpie it doesn't hit the entire edge when I try to hold it vertically might just be the way I'm holding it, I pretend like I'm slicing a layer off of something and then I ease up on the pressure towards the last strokes and they come out nice and sharp
 
I use my Sharpmaker with a piece of rubberized shelf or drawer liner underneath the base, to keep it from sliding. Used as such, I only use one finger atop the end of the base to keep the unit from tipping when drawing the blade down the rods. If you find you're having to really hold the base down with a full hand or much pressure, you're using too much pressure against the rods. For the very last finishing passes, you also want to reduce pressure even further, so the unit won't even slip or slide much or at all, on just a bare tabletop or counter surface. To get a feel for it, it's good to practice touchups in this manner, so you can adjust your touch to the best finishing pressure.

I've even seen suggested here before, and I've tried it myself, to use some cylinders/dowels like 'wheels' underneath the base, so you can see how little pressure is needed for the final touches. If the unit 'rolls' to one side or the other during these final passes, it's more pressure than you ideally want. I used wine corks as the rollers under mine, when I tried this.

The Sharpmaker is at it's absolute best as a 'finisher' sharpener to be used with finesse. Although it does provide aggressive diamond or cbn rods for rebevelling tasks, it must still be used with a pretty moderate touch, as the system isn't set up ideally for heavy grinding tasks and will create more issues than it solves, like loss of angle control due to tipping or rod movement, or extreme burring or rolling of the edge, if pressure is too heavy.
 
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When you can barely hear the faint hiss of the blade and feel the feed back you’re there. Like any cutting tool let the abrasive do the cutting. To much pressure will defeat the effectiveness.
 
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