Need suggestions for a Skeletonized Combat/Utility Fixed Blade

TT2Toes

TT2Toes

Joined
Apr 16, 2002
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Going nuts trying to find what I want in a bare bones, skeletonized, combat utility knife. Ideally what I want has to be 8" - 9" total, no scales or handle material, just bare metal (Teflon or other coating is OK). A Nylon sheath with liner is preferred.

For example, the Colt Combat Commander, 8.75" total, is the perfect size, weight, and blade shape (see pic below). Problem is, I don't like the chisel ground serrated spine on the back of the blade. I have this knife, and my thumb keeps slipping onto the serrations (over time my thumb's gonna be forked). A plain spine, or clipped with a false edge is what I want - - BUT I CAN'T FIND ONE.

To top it off, the knife is for work in and around salt water, so stainless steel is mandatory. The cost has to be under $50, cause I'm bound to drop it in the ocean and lose it eventually.

HELP! Anybody with a suggestion that will meet my needs - - PLEASE POST.

Thanks all.
TT2Toes

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Why not just grind the serrated portion off of the Colt?

It shouldn't take more than a few minutes with a rotary tool or belt sander, and would look great if done correctly.

You may also want to consider finding a knife with most of the attributes that you like and simply removing the scales. The handles on the Becker line, for example, are held on with a couple screws and easily removed. These won't work because you want stainless, but many fixed blades use similar construction.
 
As was alluded to in the June issue of 'Knives Illustrated' magazine, Greg Gutcher Sr., owner/operator of Sullivan's Holster Shop, sheath maker for Randall Made Knives (RMK) is going to be offering a line of skeletonized knives based on RMK designs, as made by knifemaker Rick Schuchman (Scar knives) soon...

Per a conversation I had with Greg on Thursday last, the first model is based on the RMK model 15 'Airman', in a single hilt configuration, and I believe that the 1st run of 250 pieces is pre-sold.

(You may want to check with Greg on this next week at (813)236-8791, as the shop is closed this week (7-14/18) for a well deserved vacation)

Obviously, other designs that come to mind are the RMK #18 sawtooth/no sawteeth option grind (a double edged spearpoint design), and the R.W. 'Bob' Loveless 'Chute' knife grind, both classic designs.

Hold your breath buddy, good things are coming!

Mel
 
I think the suggestion by Fishbulb of grinding down the serrations makes lots of sense. Especially in this case where you are simply seeking an inexpensive user.
Of course if you were willing to accept something other than a skeletonized blade there are plenty of good choices.
 
frank k and enkidu: How about an ArcLite?
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Blade edge is a bit short of what I'd like (3.125" vs 4" or more). But worth considering. Thanks for the suggestion.
fishbulb and averageguy: Why not just grind the serrated portion off of the Colt? . . . consider finding a knife with most of the attributes that you like and simply removing the scales.
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I am afraid that grinding this puppy down even close to the full width of the spine would alter the function and make it un-usable. There'd be about 3/8" of the blade width lost in the grinding. This is because the chisel grind for the serration section is pretty agressive - - see pic. Alternatively, I have looked at blade blanks, sans scales, but all are drilled for scales and not skeletonized. The drilling placement for handles isn't conducive to converting to skeletonized. Plus, I really don't want to make a project out of this - - just hope to find what I am looking for and buy it!
nozh2002: They are not under $50, but have a look: Busse Assault Shaker (INFI steel). . . Boker Beluga (X15T.N.) dive knife
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Thanks Noz, the Shaker is too small for my intended use (2.5" blade, 5.5" total)and I'd be cryin' tears if I lost a Busse in the drink. There's an 80-85% probability that this knife will end up in the watery depths of the blue Pacific. I did look at the Beluga too, but it is too big.
Melvin-Purvis: . . . Greg Gutcher Sr., owner/operator of Sullivan's Holster Shop. . . offering a line of skeletonized knives based on RMK designs, as made by knifemaker Rick Schuchman (Scar knives) soon...
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Thanks Melvin. I am intrigued. Will have to keep on eye on these developments - - though I suspect this would blow the price cap I am working under.

Thanks all for your help. Guess there's a blade niche that still needs filling.

TT2Toes
 
If you gonna drop it the sea you should put a buoyancy aid on the lanyard. I know www.chisco.com does some for sunglasses and wallets made out of ?low density foam. Kayaking/canoeing specialists may stock small buoyancy aids though I bet you could make one yourself.
D.
 
Here's some general spec's for what I am trying to find.
Blade: clip or drop point, stainless steel, about 3/16" thick
Edge: single plain edge, 4" or greater
Total length: 8"-9"
Handle material: none, skeletonized
Cost: $50 or less
Close match: Colt Combat Commander. (below) Just not close enough.
donn: If you gonna drop it the sea you should put a buoyancy aid on the lanyard. I know www.chisco.com does some for sunglasses and wallets made out of ?low density foam.
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 Thanks, but the size knife I'm using would need a good size hunk of foam to float it. I'm afraid that a buoy'd get in the way of working with the knife. Also, I've been tossed by enough waves to know that sometimes you don't want that knife on you when a ton of ocean comes crashing down. Ergo, a reason to shed the knife before the spin cycle gets full momentum.

TT2Toes
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I think I remember hearing that CRKT was going to make a biger series of their KISS fixe blades, but I haven't been able to find them on any of the sales sites. I have the smaller stiff KISS and it seems like a nice knife for what it is.

Why is having a skeletonized handle so important?

Also, it would appear that removing the material down to the full thickness of the blade would not be required in order to keep from cutting yourself on the serrations. Just dropping the spine enough to clear the sharpened part would give you (in effect) a dull false edge.
 
Thanks, but the size knife I'm using would need a good size hunk of foam to float it. I'm afraid that a buoy'd get in the way of working with the knife. Also, I've been tossed by enough waves to know that sometimes you don't want that knife on you when a ton of ocean comes crashing down. Ergo, a reason to shed the knife before the spin cycle gets full momentum.

I was gonna suggest you learn to tie a decent knife lanyard, and then you went and mentioned this. I had been thinking you were maybe just cuttin' bait on the gunwale of a fishing boat or something. You're talkin' major Mother Nature, huh?

Is it possible that you could still use a knife lanyard, and maybe *sheath* it when you're working in rough seas? Seems to me that having a knife out at all when you are subject to this "ton of ocean...crashing down" is a bad idea, lanyard, buoy or nothing.

I believe that Nantucket Knotworks has some cool knife lanyards you might find interesting.
nantucketknotworks.com

---Jeffrey
 
Thanks folks. This "ideal" knife I'm looking for is to do work in the splash zone of tidal/inter-tidal areas of California's North coast. This is a rough coastal area, very rocky, prone to big and fast waves, and a fickle mother-nature. The demands are multifunction; from surgical cutting on ocean molluscs, to chipping/knapping hard material, to pry-bar applications, to harassment deterrant. The slime and stink factor is pretty high, and I've found that no matter how tight a handle fits a blade, the stink gets inbetween and stays. Also, the added girth of a handle actually detracts from the versatility of using the blade to pry things. These are the main reasons I prefer a skeletonized handle.
peacefuljeffrey: I had been thinking you were maybe just cuttin' bait on the gunwale of a fishing boat or something. You're talkin' major Mother Nature, huh? Is it possible that you could still use a knife lanyard, . . . having a knife out at all when you are subject to this "ton of ocean...crashing down" is a bad idea, lanyard, buoy or nothing.
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Good point, and when working on a boat or stable platform over water, I do use a lanyard connected to my wrist. Unfortunately, in this situation, jettison capability is a prime consideration. If I get tumbled, I don't want the blade swinging wild from my wrist. Good, bad, or indifferent I gotta take whatever mother nature offers and go where the critters are.
fishbulb: . . .it would appear that removing the material down to the full thickness of the blade would not be required in order to keep from cutting yourself on the serrations. Just dropping the spine enough to clear the sharpened part would give you (in effect) a dull false edge.
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I choke up on the knife for close work requiring maximum control. For a while I used a couple layers of cloth adhesive tape over the serrations to protect my thumb. They got wet and sandy, and lasted about 20 minutes. I prefer to have the full 3/16" width of the spine to push against with my thumb, and the blunt edge comes in handy when I need to swing the blade to chip or knock off something. May sound picky, I know, but I am looking for the right (or better) tool for the job.

Cheers,
TT2Toes
 
Take a look at a Timberline Zambezi. It would be about $80.00 or so. I know that is more than your budget but I think it would fit the bill nicely. 1st it is 440c stainless 2nd the handle is easily removed leaving a fully functional knife. 3rd it will lock into the sheath with or without the handle scales. It could pull double duty as a dive knife without the handles if you wanted or survival knife with them attached. I have one that has a 6" blade but I think they make one a little smaller. I have been very pleased with mine.:)
 
You might want to check out CRKT's new Hammond ABC knives. They seem like great knives and I've found them for fifty bucks.

:footinmou oops, just realized they have serrations on the back too. Still might be worth a look.:rolleyes:
 
Here's a little different idea

Skip the production knives, and take a look here: www.kitknives.com

and here : www.texasknife.com

They have quite a selection of stainless fixed blade kits. Pick the blade that you like best, and just don't put a handle on it. Plain and simple.
They aren't really skeletonized but some do have extensive amounts of hole in the tang.

The TC4 and SG4 on kitknives both look like they might serve you pretty well minus scales. And texas knifemakers has too many kits to mention, spend a little time there and I bet you'll find something you like. Most are around $20-$40 too.
 
Take a look at the Del Rio Skinner at www.texasknife.com I'm flipping through the catalog right now

Hows this match your specs.
10" OAL with 5" Blade, Flat grind with false edge. 3/16" Thick.
Not skeletonized, but the handle shape looks like it offers pretty good retention.
Only $19.95 and they have sheaths that are supposed to fit it.
 
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