Need suggestions for cleaver handle repair

Joined
Jul 22, 2019
Messages
24
I recently picked up another nice pre-Civil War Wm. Beatty and Son meat cleaver, this time a OO (7" blade). I already have a #1 (8" blade) and #2 (9" blade). Unfortunately, this OO cleaver has splits in the handle. The handle should probably be replaced, but I would like to try to save this 150+ year old handle if I can. To date, I have only cleaned and sanitized the cleaver blade and handle, and you can see that the handle is a little dried and cracked. I'm thinking about injecting some CA (super glue) into the cracks to prevent any further splitting, and eventually using some Bondo Wood Filler epoxy to fill the large split(s) prior to sanding and boiled linseed oil. I also want to soak the entire handle in BLO for a few days to let the wood soak it up and expand. Should I glue and fill after I soak, or will the BLO interfere with the CA and Bondo? I use all of my cleavers, so I want to be sure that the handle is solid when I'm through. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Kfhwpgo.jpg
[/IMG]
LwWwOd1.jpg
[/IMG]
XszzaOR.jpg
[/IMG]
xsQ1NRO.jpg
[/IMG]
 
I can't see the pics but if you want to save the old handle then I would recommend filling it with deep running clear epoxy (casting resin). Google epoxy plus live edge to get some ideas. You could devise ways to do it scales on or scales off.
 
I shrunk down the photos, maybe they'll post now.
pwRr8gT.jpg
jAvOtT7.jpg
jAvOtT7.jpg
pwRr8gT.jpg
WdP50BT.jpg
Nice cleaver! That's not as bad as I was expecting to see from your description. Can you close the crack with clamps? If so I'd use an epoxy as was suggested already. Close it up and sand and BLO to your hearts content!
 
Negative on the clamps...I tried a couple of different sizes of clamps, but there was barely any closure of the split. I'm afraid if I put any more pressure on the handle it will split somewhere else and maybe worse. I applied some very thin CA to the large crack and a few of the hairline cracks just to stabilize them. Now the handle is soaking in BLO for a couple of days. Once the handle comes out of the BLO, I plan to gently degrease the insides of the split with a little alcohol or acetone, and then use Bondo Wood Filler (dries medium brown) to fill the split. After sanding, I'll apply more BLO and then finish it off with some Renaissance Wax or Butcher Block treatment (beeswax and mineral oil). I'll give the blade a light cleaning with 0000 steel wool and mineral oil to remove any rust but still preserve the patina and character, and then use the belt sander to put a nice convex edge on the cleaver.
 
Yours is probably the smarter approach, FortyTwoBlades...since the BLO may inhibit the filler from bonding and filling 100%- I'll try to degrease before filling. I guess that I'm hoping the BLO will re-moisturize the handle wood and cause it to swell a little, thus making the split a little narrower and requiring less filler. Purely for aesthetics! These Beatty cleavers are awesome, and the way that they have held up for over 150+ years is almost amazing. Great steel, and the wood is very nice. Two of my Beattys have almost mint condition handles, this is the only one that has some cracks and splits.
 
I'm curious, how were you able to date it to pre-Civil War?
That is exactly what I want to know!
Florida Jim I got a nice one recently and I wanted to share a few photos. I'd love to be able to date it! It says "CHESTER PENNA" instead of PA which I find interesting and have rarely seen anywhere else. Also there are five number 2's stamped into the handle. Wish I knew what they meant! Model number perhaps? Not sure if you can see them all but here's the 2's.
15735100630484996587663153931952.jpg
A few other pics;
LONyAH7.jpg
3GVm2Ex.jpg
zfQaofT.jpg

I couldn't agree with you more about these. Beautifully made tools!
If you could share how you dated yours it'd be much appreciated!
0PIJYhB.jpg
 
Last edited:
That is exactly what I want to know!
Florida Jim I got a nice one recently and I wanted to share a few photos. I'd love to be able to date it! It says "CHESTER PENNA" instead of PA which I find interesting and haven't seen anywhere else. Also there are five number 2's stamped into the handle. Wish I knew what they meant! Model number perhaps? Not sure if you can see them all but here's the 2's.
View attachment 1230462
A few other pics;
LONyAH7.jpg
3GVm2Ex.jpg
zfQaofT.jpg

I couldn't agree with you more about these. Beautifully made tools!
If you could share how you dated yours it'd be much appreciated!
0PIJYhB.jpg
There is chance that QMC stands for U.S. Army Quartermaster Corps. However, tools tend to be marked USQMC
https://bladeforums.com/threads/lewis-axe-co-lewistown-pa.1577671/page-2#post-18064090
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/original-pre-early-ww1-s-army-m-1977610138
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-quartermaster-corps-army-1853482305
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/army-issue-teaspoon-american-silver-1991390976

original-pre-early-ww1-s-army-m_1_fce25d696062d075735de2f8f9a37e95.jpg

vintage-quartermaster-corps-army_1_efc94eb86e8cb686169399264766bfa3.jpg

army-issue-teaspoon-american-silver_1_81f239d76fb329d78f073b680c1d199f.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thank you for that! Someone, perhaps you even, suggested that before. Could that help date it somehow? I am pretty ignorant when it comes to the minutiae of military history .
Also I figure the odd abbreviation for PA may help as it's not seen very often. I think I have seen it on one other cleaver online. Thanks for the link.
 
Thank you for that! Someone, perhaps you even, suggested that before. Could that help date it somehow? I am pretty ignorant when it comes to the minutiae of military history .
Also I figure the odd abbreviation for PA may help as it's not seen very often. I think I have seen it on one other cleaver online. Thanks for the link.

1899
BookReaderImages.php

https://archive.org/details/RussellAndErwinCatalogueOfHardware1899ToolsSection/page/n299?q="wm.+beatty"
1917
BookReaderImages.php

https://archive.org/details/WmFrankfurthCoHardwareCatalogNo5/page/n77
Assuming QMC stands for U.S. Army Quartermaster Corps(very iffy) that would mean your cleaver was made after 1912.
 
Last edited:
1899
BookReaderImages.php

https://archive.org/details/RussellAndErwinCatalogueOfHardware1899ToolsSection/page/n299?q="wm.+beatty"
1917
BookReaderImages.php

https://archive.org/details/WmFrankfurthCoHardwareCatalogNo5/page/n77
Assuming QMC stands for U.S. Army Quartermaster Corps(very iffy) that would mean your cleaver was made after 1912.

That's more like the time period I'm thinking of, late 1800's to early 1900's.

Steve Tall posted a link suggesting the Chester plant wasn't built until 1871.

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/wm-beatty-and-sons.1527628/#post-17542238
 
Untangling the Beattys-A Hundred Years of Edge-Tool Makers, Part I
By Beatty, Charles I.
https://www.questia.com/library/jou...ling-the-beattys-a-hundred-years-of-edge-tool

“Introduction

I have been collecting edge-tools with the mark "BEATTY" stamped on them for more than forty years, and as the collection grew and as the marks became more varied, the question arose as to who the Beattys were. The tools were marked with different initials. Some had the words "Son" or "Sons," and others included cities or abbreviations, like "Chester," "Philadelphia," "Phil'a," "Philad'a," and "Media," and the symbol of an eagle or steer was in some of the marks. It became apparent that there had to be a number of Beattys involved in the production of these edge tools, which must have occurred over a period of years (Figure 1).

In 1999, the Early American Industries Association published the Directory of American Tool-makers, and I assumed that this directory would straighten out all the Beattys and my collection could then be labeled showing who made the tool as well as when and where they did so. The copy of the Directory came, but it told me what I already knew- that there was some confusion about the Beattys. Thus, it came about that I became involved in a search to see if some semblance of a history of the Beattys could be written.

As my research progressed, I realized that the confusion with the Beattys was due in part to the repetition of first names in succeeding generations and was compounded by the ease with which the Beattys were willing to work separately or together. There are times when they shared the same mill and produced tools collectively, but sold their tools independently. Sometimes, some Beattys were employed by another Beatty, and in other years each Beatty had his own mill, producing and marketing his own tools in competition with a brother, nephew, or uncle. In addition, the Beattys would join together in partnerships making and selling tools. I believe that these different arrangements dictated the form of their businesses. I have organized this history by separating the stories of Thomas Beatty's three sons: William Beatty (1788-1842), Robert Beatty (1790-1858) and John Beatty (1808-1886). This first part will follow William and three of his children: William Penn Beatty (1828-1878), John C. Beatty (1817-1891), and Mary Beatty Ogden (born 1822), and their descendents who continued the business until the mid-1920s (Chart I).

Part two of this history will follow the careers of William's brothers, John and Robert, and William's son, T.F. Beatty. John made tools under the name, John Beatty & Co., and Robert, with his son Robert H. Beatty, formed Robert Beatty & Son. Thomas F. Beatty worked as T. F. Beatty & Co. As will become apparent, it is not possible to make a clean break when splitting the family history in two because of their intertwined relationships. The published records such as newspapers, directories, and such other records were very important historically in placing the Beattys in American history. The problem was determining if there were any primary sources that confirmed these statements, and since the business records of the individuals or partnerships are almost non-existent, the research had to be focused on governmental and existing printed records. Where there were differences between published and government records, I used the government records.

Most of the edge-tool makers' living descendants whom I was able to contact have very little knowledge of the business history of their forbearers. They did, however, have genealogical records, which I used when there were differences with the printed histories. To my regret, the genealogical records confirm that I am not a descendant of any of the edge-tool makers named Beatty.

Thomas Beatty

What I learned covers more than a century of edgetool makers named Beatty. The family includes brothers, sons, nephews, wives, widows, cousins, and in-laws all producing and marking the tools under the name of Beatty. Others were brought into the business as partners, probably for their special skills, but these relationships would last for very short durations. …”

Looks like a good read.
 
As you can see, there are quite a few links to info about the Beattys and their tools. Here's a couple more:
http://www.yesteryearstools.com/Yesteryears%20Tools/Beatty%20Axe%20Markings.html
https://www.davistownmuseum.org/bioBeatyson.html
https://www.appalachianaxeworksshop.com/listing/654588391/antique-meat-clever-w-m-beatty-and-son

Wm. Beatty and Son Chester Pa started around 1839, and ended sometime between 1870 and 1882. Some of their very early tools are even date stamped "1806". I am purely guessing that my three cleavers (No. 00, 1, and 2), all similarly marked with the standing steer Wm Beatty and Son Chester PA" or "Penna", are mid-1850s to mid-1860s. The 1899 ad (shown above) has similar Beatty cleavers but their blades are not stamped in the same fashion as the older cleavers.

As far as Yankee Josh's beautiful QMC cleaver, it could very well have served in the Civil War. Beatty cleavers are well marked...the "1" (above QMC on the blade) could mean it's a Beatty No. 1 (8" blade); and the "2" stamps on the handle could mean a Beatty No. 2 (9" blade). A measurement will tell you. I've never seen stamps on the handles, so it's probably a military marking
 
Back
Top