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Need tips on reassembling a Spyderco Military

Joined
Jan 22, 2004
Messages
267
I want to take apart my Military to clean up and polish the pivot area. I've already tried flushing the area with water and oiling, but it still has a gritty feel. Mainly I just need to know how to adjust the pivot to get the smoothest action and keep the blade dead center like it is now. Thanks
 
If you are comfortable with the fact that it voids your warranty, I have done MANY. I just have to say that to be fair to you. It is really rather simple. I have taken them apart, done blade swaps, cleaned, lubed, etc.

The main thing is ho have a good set of Torx bits. The smaller ones in the handle are T6 I believe. The pivot is a T8 or T10. I'm not home, so I'm going off memory here. :-)

Make sure your bits fit right and disassemble. I take and put right side parts in a right hand pile, left side parts in a left side pile. Really easy to disassemble.

Reassembly isn't tough. I take my blade all the way to snug. So it will barely open/close. Then back off very, very slowly. You will eventually f'ing that "sweet spot" of good pivot, and smoothness. With the Millie, the Torx that holds the blade stop pin in, also has a bearing on pivot. Don't overly torque on the blade stop pin Torx. If you do, the blade pivot will be mother difficult to dial in.

Good luck, and be patient. It's not that tough once you do one.
 
Thanks. Didn't know about the blade stop pin. The knife is usable as is because speed is not an issue for me, usually. I just want to get rid of the sand in the pivot feel:barf:
 
Thanks. Didn't know about the blade stop pin. The knife is usable as is because speed is not an issue for me, usually. I just want to get rid of the sand in the pivot feel:barf:

Have you thought of cleaning it with the pivot backed off? You really shouldnt have to completely tear down the knife to flush the pivot. You could just back it off so that there is a good amount of wiggle and then flush it out. Also i eould refrain from washing any folding knife in water as to prevent corrosion. And if you are going to use water i would follow it up with something that will displace the water to avoid complications later on. Lighter fluid would be my first choice instead of water for cleaning. I dont think that is effective on displacing water though.
 
I do a Millie assembly beginning at around 10:00 into this reveal video. Includes tuning of pivot, stop-pin, blade & scale alignment, etc. I had honed the blade washer/bushings prior during the build/work. Be careful not to take off too much material from the washers.

Spyderco Military Ti G10 Michael Walker:
[video=youtube_share;FQl1BaPNRVM]http://youtu.be/FQl1BaPNRVM[/video]

Unless you have specific reason DO NOT separate the two halves on a Millie, Para, etc. Just rotate the scales around the lanyard tube (lanyard tube is press flanged or flared tightly at factory). Also, the blade & washers can be removed by only removing the pivot screw & pivot bushing. Each knife responds individually to how it's assembled. If you have any problems PM me, and I'll do what I can to help you out.

Hope this helps ;-)

Regards,
Chris
 
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