Need to invest in sharpener to handle things from Opi no.2 Espada XL, no need for mirroredges but quality edges on various shapes/serr, foolproof?

Hashishiin

Hashishiin

Joined
Dec 29, 2021
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Also getting a budget benchstone so I can learn to hand-sharpen on stuff like SAKs, Opinels, Mora, Douk-Douk, Buck, whatever. Appreciate a rec for a good stone that won't break the bank. Bonus points if I can sharpen super-steels on it, even if it takes a while. I want to be able to do this by hand.

I am not a sharpening genius, and was so happy the first time I made a knife (an MAM Inox sheepsfoot) shave via the Sharpmaker. I realized the Sharpmaker can ultimately dull an edges geometry, and am seeking a true method of sharpening. I intend to buy some loupes to observe my work better, as I'm scared to sharpen anything more than a RAT. However, while I learn what I'm doing, I want a guided system to help me out.

I've been looking at the KME, perhaps. What is good? I will be wanting to sharpen some large and heavy knives is my problem, and I don't know which of these systems can hold the Espada XL, or something of that sort. What would you give someone who is not concerned about beautiful aesthetic mirror edges, but just wants to be able to sharpen all kinds of knives at different angles, maybe reprofile, make edges thinner in the future, stuff like that? Dragonfly to the Ontario SP-1, you know.

I'm just barely understanding a microbevel, like, that is the separate more acute angle that comes on, say, any Spyderco, right? There's a BIG microbevel on Moras, and no microbevel on an Opinel or Douk-Douk. This is just to demonstrate where I'm at in all this, haha. Thank you for anyone helping me out, I swear if you live near LA I will pay you to spend a day teaching me to sharpen 😂 I'm still debating if I will prefer steels like Maxamet or 10V when I learn, or if I will just like easy to sharpen steels like Cruwear and the classic 420HCs and such.

Anyways - what's the most versatile sharpener for a working, quality edge on everything from a fat chopper, to a thin slicer, to a hawkbill or reverse-S plainedge?
 
My vote always goes to Wicked Edge. You can buy adapters for sharpening scissors and chisels. You can get a Tormek small knife holder to help with tiny blades. Plus it doesn't require electricity to operate it.
Plus, Wicked Edge has their own forum where you can buy aftermarket stuff to spruce up your vise. You can learn how to put two or three WE vises inline for larger knives and swords.
My WE130 has added stainless steel micro-adjusters with stainless steel quick-release locks, stone covers, stone stops, and ball joint covers.

WE130-4a.jpg
 
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000Robert said:
My vote always goes to Wicked Edge. You can buy adapters for sharpening scissors and chisels. You can get a Tormek small knife holder to help with tiny blades. Plus it doesn't require electricity to operate it.
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This really might be it for me. 15-30 degrees possible, can handle knives up to 15", can handle all the thickness that I require, can take upgrades to it, can take that Tormek holder you mentioned for my smaller blades...
This seems like it could be exactly what I've been looking for. Seems pretty straight-up, seems like it functions.

Do you use this?
 
Hashishiin said:
This really might be it for me. 15-30 degrees possible, can handle knives up to 15", can handle all the thickness that I require, can take upgrades to it, can take that Tormek holder you mentioned for my smaller blades...
This seems like it could be exactly what I've been looking for. Seems pretty straight-up, seems like it functions.

Do you use this?
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Yep. I added a photo of mine sharpening my Buck 301. I recommend the Pro Pack 3 because it has some attachments included. That's what I started with and then added the other attachments and stuff as I could afford to. With the WE130 you can do asymmetrical edges also. here's a photo of me using the Tormek small knife holder in mine. The tinier blades like a sheepfoot in a slip joint knife is the main weakness of the WE. But it's pretty easy with the Tormek holder.

Buck-2a.jpg
 
000Robert said:
Yep. I added a photo of mine sharpening my Buck 301. I recommend the Pro Pack 3 because it has some attachments included. That's what I started with and then added the other attachments and stuff as I could afford to. With the WE130 you can do asymmetrical edges also. here's a photo of me using the Tormek small knife holder in mine. The tinier blades like a sheepfoot in a slip joint knife is the main weakness of the WE. But it's pretty easy with the Tormek holder.

View attachment 1826700
Click to expand...
Dang... it looks good, but that is a thousand dollar difference, which is intimidating!
 
Hashishiin said:
Dang... it looks good, but that is a thousand dollar difference, which is intimidating!
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Yeah, the sticker shock nearly got me also. But when you see and feel the quality, the sticker shock will fade away. Getting the Covid money helped me out. If you are a military veteran you can get a pretty good discount. I didn't apply for it because I was never in a war and figured others deserve it more than I do. But most of the price is in the stones. Each pair of stone handles are actually two sets of stones. And like I said, the quality is just outstanding.
And the 50/80 stones should be a must have if you need to do some reprofiling. I was reprofiling chisels with my 100 grit stones and I thought my arms were going to fall off. The 50/80 stones save so much time and wear and tear on your arms!
 
I've only ever used a couple of guided systems, a Gatco diamond system and a Hapstone R2. Accordingly, my input is of limited value. With all of that said, when I researched systems in preparation for purchase, I looked at the KME, Wicked Edge, Edge Pro, TSprof, etc. I doubt you could go very wrong with any of them.
 
A couple of DMT's and a Norton Crystolon-India combo or pair in medium and fine. The stones can also be used on edge for recurved blades or just use the corners of the stones after they are dressed.

A small investment that will take you a long ways. The money you save can then be used for nicer knifes or stones a little later on.
 
I've had an Edgepro for 20 years and love it. However, it taught me what a sharp edge and a good bevel is. Now I seldom use it and prefer to freehand sharpen with DMT's mainly, sometimes waterstones.

I'm agreeing with the others who say how important it is to learn to freehand sharpen. It's a skill you won't lose, like a device.
 
For such a high-end sharpener (Wicked Edge), to me it makes sense to only buy its better model, which costs at least several hundred dollars or even more than $1k. I can see the value of it to people who run a sharpening business, those who have a collection of $10k knives or more, or those who have much money to spare. I have used Lansky sharpener and Spyderco SharpMaker but like several others in this thread, I am gradually turning to free-hand sharpening. If done properly, I believe free hand sharpening is more convenient and faster than any guided systems.
 
If you have room to dedicate to leaving a system set up just about any of these mentioned will serve you well. My issue with the Wicked Edge is that it was always a production for me to set it up. Couldn't leave it out. Sharpening became a session. Once every 6 weeks or so I would haul out the gear and the knives and sit down for a few hours to sharpen. Got old fast. Sold the WE.

Bought a KME - needs less bench space but not anywhere as accurate and refined as the WE, though got decent results. Still needs a session. The SharpMaker always on the bench and very easy to keep edges sharp with it after the more guided systems. I call it the SHARP KEEPER rather than the SharpMaker. Will always be ready on the bench. I'm selling the KME, after all.

Just recently acquired the WORK SHARP - KEN ONION with the Blade Grinding Attachment. This is considered the WORK SHARP ELITE. Less expensive then both the full KME and certainly less expensive than the Wicked Edge. I LOVE IT. It is the system I have been wanting but didn't know I wanted it. Can remain on my bench and get to sharpening within minutes. Flat grind/convex grind, 10° or much greater. All kinds of sizes from small pocket folders to machetes. Using it the first time felt natural and the results were impressive. No looking back for me.

I am not obsessed with sharpening - my target is whisper slicing through phone book paper. Some edges with a micro bevel, others not. My woodworking edge tools are polished and very sharp (not with the WorkSharp). My knives are sharp and toothy. I don't think the Ken Onion without the Blade Grinding Attachment would satisfy me. I needed that level of refinement. My 2¢.
 
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I am sorry if I am slow to reply to some of your responses, I'm trying to do some research, as well! I'm reading and appreciating you all, though.

RayseM said:
If you have room to dedicate to leaving a system set up just about any of these mentioned will serve you well. My issue with the Wicked Edge is that it was always a production for me to set it up. Couldn't leave it out. Sharpening became session. Once every 6 weeks or so I would haul out the gear and the knives and sit down for a few hours to sharpen. Got old fast. Sold the WE.

Bought a KME - needs less bench space but not anywhere as accurate and refined as the WE though decent results. Still needs a session. The SharpMaker always on the bench and very easy to keep edges sharp with it after the more guided systems. I call it the SHARP KEEPER rather than the SharpMaker. Will always be ready on the bench. I'm selling the KME, after all.

Just recently acquired the WORK SHARP - KEN ONION with the Blade Grinding Attachment. This is considered the WORK SHARP ELITE. Less expensive then both the full KME and certainly less expensive than the Wicked Edge. I LOVE IT. It is the system I have been wanting but didn't know I wanted it. Can remain on my bench and get to sharpening within minutes. Flat grind/convex grind, 10° or much greater. All kinds of sizes from small pocket folders to machetes. Using it the first time felt natural and the results were impressive. No looking back for me.

I am not obsessed with sharpening - my target is whisper slicing through phone book paper. Some edges with a micro bevel, others not. My woodworking edge tools are polished and very sharp (not with the WorkSharp). My knives are sharp and toothy. I don't think the Ken Onion without the Blade Grinding Attachment would satisfy me. I needed that level of refinement. My 2¢.
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I have the same goals as you - whisper slice through paper, different edge types, nothing too insane. Just good sharp knives. I was thinking there has to be a way to get the edges I want without spending a thousand. I appreciate this input.

Also, to the thread, I don't mind spending, say, a solid two hours every six weeks. Of course, I say that now, never having done that.
 
Guy McVer said:
The Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker, right?

Can you please elaborate on this? Thanks.
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I still do not 100% understand it myself, but... you know how the microbevel has its own little area, that dulls, and then gets cleaner and finer with the SM? Well, what about the steel above that? The actual shoulders of the grind coming down? The sharpmaker does not "make a new edge", it just refines the one that already exists.

I understand how this works, but not how to explain it very well. Look this up and you'll see people explaining it far better than me, I just had this explained to me not a week ago. You CAN give the knives a true sharpening with the Sharpmaker, but you have to figure out angles and such. Again, my understanding is lacking, my explanation even more so.
 
Alberta Ed said:
Get a set of DMTs and an angle guide, and learn to sharpen freehand. That's basically all you need.
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I am wanting to do this simultaneously, just that, if it takes me a while, I want a way to have good edges regardless. I guess the angle guide would help a good amount though. Got to pull the trigger on the DMTs
 
sharp_edge said:
For such a high-end sharpener (Wicked Edge), to me it makes sense to only buy its better model, which costs at least several hundred dollars or even more than $1k. I can see the value of it to people who run a sharpening business, those who have a collection of $10k knives or more, or those who have much money to spare. I have used Lansky sharpener and Spyderco SharpMaker but like several others in this thread, I am gradually turning to free-hand sharpening. If done properly, I believe free hand sharpening is more convenient and faster than any guided systems.
Click to expand...

It just depends on how much you want to spend on the Wicked Edge. You don't have to buy the granite base or the very nice rolling storage case. You don't have to buy the scissor or chisel attachments either. I just started with the basic Pro Pack 3 with the aluminum base and rolling storage case, and then added more as I could afford to. But the quality is very obvious as soon as you open the box.
 
The Sharpmaker will work to maintain the secondary bevel as long as you are contacting the whole bevel.
 
RayseM said:
If you have room to dedicate to leaving a system set up just about any of these mentioned will serve you well. My issue with the Wicked Edge is that it was always a production for me to set it up. Couldn't leave it out. Sharpening became a session. Once every 6 weeks or so I would haul out the gear and the knives and sit down for a few hours to sharpen. Got old fast. Sold the WE.

Bought a KME - needs less bench space but not anywhere as accurate and refined as the WE, though got decent results. Still needs a session. The SharpMaker always on the bench and very easy to keep edges sharp with it after the more guided systems. I call it the SHARP KEEPER rather than the SharpMaker. Will always be ready on the bench. I'm selling the KME, after all.

Just recently acquired the WORK SHARP - KEN ONION with the Blade Grinding Attachment. This is considered the WORK SHARP ELITE. Less expensive then both the full KME and certainly less expensive than the Wicked Edge. I LOVE IT. It is the system I have been wanting but didn't know I wanted it. Can remain on my bench and get to sharpening within minutes. Flat grind/convex grind, 10° or much greater. All kinds of sizes from small pocket folders to machetes. Using it the first time felt natural and the results were impressive. No looking back for me.

I am not obsessed with sharpening - my target is whisper slicing through phone book paper. Some edges with a micro bevel, others not. My woodworking edge tools are polished and very sharp (not with the WorkSharp). My knives are sharp and toothy. I don't think the Ken Onion without the Blade Grinding Attachment would satisfy me. I needed that level of refinement. My 2¢.
Click to expand...

LOL! One foot by one foot is a lot of space?
 
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