Need to pick up a sharpener!

U

unclerod

Joined
Apr 21, 2010
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This is a newb talking hear...I am looking pick up a sharpening system. My knife collection has been growing but my ability to re-sharpen has not really changed (still have a simple pull thru system that is probably meant for kitchen knives). My collection of blades varies in size from 3" - 10" blade lengths. I have seen the spyderco sharpmaker vids on youtube and it seems pretty straight forward, affordable, small and quick to setup and easy to learn/use which I like. I am wondering if I should be looking at something else because I do have some larger blades? What would you recommend for someone not currently interested augmenting grinds or reprofiling blade shapes, just wanting to put a sharp and good quality edge back on blades of various sizes after field use. Thanks
 
Depends on what you want. If all you want to do is get your knife really sharp then the Spyderco is the way to go. I have it and use it on everything from S30v, 154cm, 1095 and unfortunately with AUS8a steel. Very simple and straight forward. Get the extra fine rods as well. having said that I am sure that there are a number of people that will say Whetstones. This is also an excellent way to go but it takes a lot of practice to use stones. There is something to be said regarding a new skill. Plenty of YT out there to see for that.
 
EnduringEagle said:
and unfortunately with AUS8a steel.
Click to expand...

Out of curiosity, why 'unfortunately' with AUS 8?
The DMT sharpening system isn't something to disregard.
It's probably more user friendly than the sharpmaster, though the SM works beautifully with edge touch ups.
Hand skills are far more valuable, to me, than cheater systems. I do use cheater systems more often than not, but the hand skills are a must, IMHO.
 
termiteslayer said:
Out of curiosity, why 'unfortunately' with AUS 8?
The DMT sharpening system isn't something to disregard.
It's probably more user friendly than the sharpmaster, though the SM works beautifully with edge touch ups.
Hand skills are far more valuable, to me, than cheater systems. I do use cheater systems more often than not, but the hand skills are a must, IMHO.
Click to expand...
Not been happy with AUS8 steel. Loses edge quick and evidently it rusts faster than any of my other steels. Of course my 1095 are always wiped down with mineral oil.
 
Your new to this so KISS, the DMT aligner and SM are good but you have some larger blades and that will require larger stones. Learning to use bench stones with the sharpening aids available it easier than one thinks.

One of the easies ways with instant results would be to use a DMT aligner clamp ($10) and a two sided bench stone. Another way to learn without a guide is to buy a mora knife, it will probably teach you more than a guide and get your hand skill going from the start.

A norton oil stone (use with water) A clamp or mora and a few hours of carefully paying attention to what you are doing will take you further than you think. Add in a ceramic rod to smooth out the edge and you have a beginner set-up that will give you at minimal a shaving sharp edge. All for about 50 or less of your hard earned dollars.
 
Lots of people will piss on the Lansky setup (stones, not diamonds), but I've been using it for about a year on everything from 1095 to ZDP189 with what I consider great results and I'm a real fussy.
2 tips to make it work great, clamp it in a vice, use light pressure.
 
Big blades will not work with such systems.
 
I like the sharp maker, it is simple enought that a child could use it.
I also have a coarse DMT stone and an old Arkansas whet stone i use for scandi's
I had no luck what so ever with the lansky type sharpeners.
The pull through "sharpeners" will just destroy your edge.
 
I'd say paper wheels are the most practical sharpening system. A mere $39.99 from Woodcraft. It's fairly intuitive to use and you can likely make every knife in your kitchen hair popping sharp in under 30 minutes.

Absolutely perfect for people who sharpen knives on a daily basis.

Or if you're completely psychotic and won't tolerate any knives edges that can't pop hair at all times:cool:.
 
the spydie system is a good tool in any system .i ca'nt help but suggest you get a dmt combo blue & red diamond system. even if you do'nt need it now the fact you came to the forum indicates your interest will grow & diamonds are crucial to better results down the road. thanks for inquiring.
dennis
 
You make it sound so cheap, lets not forget the fact you need a grinder, the space to use it, and a oops for a beginner on power tools means by by knife.

Paper wheels and beltsanders are great for LOTS of sharpening but not for a new sharpener that doesn't know the ropes.
 
after years of sharpening by hand and by clamp type systems which were ok, i was introduced to the paper sharpening wheels back around 1991 and have used them ever since. i teach guys in person and over the phone to use the wheels and some guys get results the first time. guys who have trouble sharpening by hand can get shaving sharp edges in no time with the wheels.

i had a guy call me one day to get some pointers on how to use the wheels FOR THE VERY FIRST TIME. 15 minutes later he calls me back all excited and said for the first time after using all the diamond stones and other sharpeners, he was finally able to get a shaving sharp edge. this person lost vision in 1 eye due to an accident and was still able to sharpen on the wheels.

here is his first post after getting his first shaving sharp edge after talking to me for a few minutes. this goes to show how easy they are to use compared to hand sharpening. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=745323
 
i had an ez sharp which is similar to a lansky. the rods have a short reach and you need to move the blade in a clamp type system to do long blades which is a hassle.
 
i touch up serrations on the corner of the slotted paper wheel. for serrations that are too bad for touching up, i have stones made from a special compound a friend gave me for my dremel that work great. you can use a round file with sandpaper wrapped around it also.
 
Go with a reprofiling tool first like a DMT XC or even XXC, and then a sharpmaker. If you get a knife too dull you will be screaming at the sharpmaker to remake a 60 degree edge into a 40 degree one.
 
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