need to pimp my Razier

hardheart

hardheart

Joined
Sep 19, 2001
Messages
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I got this knife in a trade a few years back. It was already worked on by Oupa, who added some Australian copper to the scales. I didn't particularly care for that when I got it, and proceeded to disassemble the knife. Well, I thought I had lost it, until my friend found it while I was grinding on my M2 blades (slowly but not so surely thread on this board) Went ahead and popped the scales off the liners, and am looking to do a few things.

I'm going to order up some wood scales to put on the M2 blades, from the not too distant Texas Knifemakers, and figure I'll get something for this as well. Maybe a colored and stabilized burl. Don't want to go back with screws (and the holes in the liners were apparently untapped, which is unfortunate) so I'm thinking of a few pins. The epoxy would probably do most all of the work, but in which holes do you think the pins need to be for some level of function? I don't think I need to pin all of them, but maybe I should. Has anyone added mosaic pins, one or two would look nice, I'm guessing you don't actually peen those down. Do they just epoxy in?

Also, I'd kind of like to color the liners gold, can I do that with heat? I've seen some nice blues, so I might go with that if I see a wood that I think will go well with it.
 
Oh, this one isn't M2, I''m cutting a few blades out of HSS hacksaw blades. This is ATS-34, it was sitting in a cabinet where I was grinding.

Yes, those are CF bolsters, can't remember exactly the scales are, I believe bone. I emailed the maker when I first took the knife apart, it was just a little pricey, though the scales are a considerable amount of work on the folder.

This should be fun anyway. I think I will go with a blue color, should go better with stainless hardware, and nickel silver pins. Brass screws in this size probably aren't going to be easy to find. Especially metric, the sizes on the holes don't match up to standard measurements.
 
I trhink you're going to have a tough time using pins on that. I mean if you could expoy everything together nice and tight it could work I guess.. I think you would want to look at your original scales and go from there to decide where the pins should go in your new scales.
Also cannot tell for sure but I do not think the pin size you would use are big enough to be mosaics , although maybe Texas has really small mosaic pins ?

What are the liners made of ? if they are steel you can mirror them or give them a satin look and then gently heat them to a gold but it wont last long (pocket wear) , if they are titanium you can polish them up and then heat them to an array of colors , if they are bead blasted I would leave them beaded and then heat them , it seems to last longer and wear better that way.
I like that maker's style , I have a CRKT Prowler , pretty neat knife. :thumbup:
 
Well, it will have screws at the pivot, stop pin, and a couple of standoffs, but that still leaves another 4 holes in the liners that had screws. Pins probably wouldn't be necessary, but it would be more decorative. I was going to drill a larger hole for a mosaic. I might skip pins through the liners and the epoxy, for serviceability. It wasn't exactly easy taking this thing apart.

The liners are Ti, and I just found the clip, which is heat colored gold, blue, and purple :D
 
Hmm Ti liners , you can heat color or anodize those for a unique look.

Please post pics of your finished product :D
 
b3_1.JPG

just bought this piece yesterday, stabilized and dyed box elder. Should be just wide enough for the scales. Gonna split it into quarters by thickness, should give me 2 pairs of scales. I'll use the other for a small fixed blade. Also ordered some new hardware from Texas Knifemakers Supply. Going to get new screws locally, one of the benefits of being absolutely surrounded by industrial work.
 
Wow , that's going to make some badass scales :eek:
What will you finish it with ?
 
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