Need whittler advice

kamagong

kamagong

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Jan 13, 2001
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I want to craft a ball-in-cage this summer and I'm thinking of picking up a whittler. I have a couple of stocks that I've used in the past, but I think I want something a pointier blade. I'm leaning heavily towards the Queen Half-Whittler. I am a bit torn though because there are two variations. The first option has winterbottom bone handles and 12c27 blades. The other has pearl scales and D2 blades.

Here are my thoughts on the subject. D2 holds an edge longer, but it is more difficult to sharpen, especially with Queen's out-of-the-box obtuse bevels. Plus pearl is a more fragile material. I've been known to drop a knife or two in the past, and I can just picture myself dropping a pearl whittler and watching the scales shatter into a million tiny pieces.

On the other hand 12c27 blades take a beautiful edge. Compared to D2 it is a breeze to sharpen, however it doesn't stay sharp as long. From my experience 12c27 responds better to stropping though. And then there is the winterbottom bone. To be honest I don't find it that good-looking. It doesn't even compare to Queen's goldenroot bone, much less pearl.

What do you guys think?

- Christian
 
I personally would go for D2 version. If pearl gets into million pieces, there are many knife makers in forums who can rescale your knife... let's say some nice bone or horn :D

12c27 is still plenty for whittling. Mora and Helle uses them in their knives and its proven bushcraft steel, so it should hand whittling very well too.

- Jani
 
oh my...that winterbottom bone is yooooooogleeeeee! :D

(of course that is a semi-professional opinion) :p
 
That would be a bit of a quandry for me as well. The smaller D2 blades on my Queens have always come sharp and ground thin. It has only been the main blades with a cold chisel edge grind. But I've never been a big fan of pearl handles. That's why I've haunted eBay looking for whittlers I could afford. I haven't caught many, but I have nabbed a few.

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Nicely done. Is that pine? I tried it once and did not like it. I don't know if it was the grain, or maybe my blades weren't sharp enough, but I had a hard time. I got so frustrated that I had to set aside the project that I was working on or I would have probably cut myself.

Those three balls in the cage are pretty cool. I'm not quite that ambitious. I think I'll stick with one for now.

- Christian
 
No, that one is made from a piece of basswood I picked up at Hobby Lobby. Here's anothe made from the same stuff.

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Pine is generally a lot harder to work with. The basswood is soft but fine grained. You have to keep your edge really sharp to avoid splitting with pine (at least with the lumber scraps I was using).

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You DA Man Jack!

I am further along than my picture shows, but not much. It's my first (Bass wood) and I left the ball area too big and had to take a good bit of time correcting that before I got back on track. I have a hard time finding the time to pick this back up, but your pics have me motivated. I will try to finish this weekend.

Christian, I like the 1095 on my Tidioute #25 Jackknife and the size shape of the blades. I have not had to re-sharpen yet.

4819892918_2ae395eeb6_b.jpg
 
Christian, while you are brooding over the dilemma(D2 can be tricky&those WB scales are not pretty)why not consider a stopgap?

A Böker (Germany) Appalossa Bone Whittler just got dropped off by the postman at mine.After washing and oiling inspecting etc I'm really pleased with it. Carbon blades all came sharp, no rub or play, no gaps I can see. Nice serpentine shape 3.5" no splitback it's true but tapered spring looks well.Inexpensive but very decent knife all round. Bökers are un-sung heroes in my book:thumbup:

Regards, W
 
Honestly?

Both are beautiful knives but.....
picture.php


Neither.
The knife is too small to use it comfortable for whittling, and the joints are not sturdy enough for the pressure of whitling.


I presume you want a Wharnciffe main blade?
If so, then...

Look at a Great Eastern NF Sleeveboard, Wharncliffe Main, Steel: 1095, Size: 3"
The main blade is thick and the secondary is a copping
I do not have one, but it might fit what you want

Or a Great Eastern NF Wharncliffe, Steel: 1095, Size: 3". This a jack with a main Wharncliffe and a secondary clip


I use a Queen Half Congress for whittling, I like the large sheepsfoot which is not too long, the Spear is swedged to make a strong useful point, and the 4" size is comfortable
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Or look at a Queen Whittler
It has a very strong main blade that is not too long for whittling
picture.php
 
You may want to give Eye Brand a look as well. I just picked one up and love it.

EyeWhittler1.jpg
 
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