Neighborhood Pigs Downunder

[coote]

Howdy... First of all... sorry Doc that I didn't wish you a happy birthday at the appropriate time.

We are well into winter down here now. And although there seem to be fewer animals about, once again we have feral pigs visiting the neighborhood.

Today went to check my traps set at a neighbor's place near the head of the valley that I live in. I had to re-set the platform-trigger leg snare shown below. It was possibly triggered by the strong winds blowing the spring mechanism (a branch with a bungee cord attached). Only the trigger is shown below. I covered the platform with soil and leaves, then laid the noose on top of the platform.

I started getting serious about trapping pigs at this location after my neighbor had his lawn pig-ploughed:

I had several traps set for quite a few nights before we finally caught one. This pig provided some of the nicest wild pork that I've eaten in my long hunting career. I don't see many wild pigs carrying fat, but this little beauty had some.

Back in May I had a number of traps set on another neighbor's place. On this property, I had maybe 15 home-made traps set along quite a long route on the side of a steep hill. One day it was raining when I was heading out for my daily trap-check, so I decided to leave my rifle at home. Just in case I had to dispatch a big pig, I took my spear.

Right at the furthermost end of my trap line I was confronted by one of the biggest boars I've experienced close-up. It was alive and well...with one front leg caught in the noose of a spring-up snare...which looked pretty darn flimsy attached to this pig (The cord used was 4mm Danline three-strand polypropylene film rope with a nominal breaking load of just over 300 kg).

The boar lunged at me and clacked its tusks. As I approached it with the spear it turned quickly to face me head-on no matter what I tried. At one stage it grabbed the spear-shaft in its mouth and chomped it hard enough to almost sever the cord binding which helps to hold the steel shaft in place. Although I stayed fairly calm, I was well aware that if the snare cord broke I could be in big trouble.

Eventually I managed to get a spear thrust into the top of the shoulder and down into the boiler room. Before I started to butcher the pig, I thought I should check a nearby snare on the same game trail. I figured that if this pig had a companion then it might be caught also. It was. Another huge boar the same color and about the same size as the first. The second pig was caught in a simple rope neck-snare. I dashed back the few yards to retrieve my spear, but when I returned to the second pig a few seconds later, it had died by choking itself.

I now had a lot of pork to deal with. And the weather was not ideal. The animals were too big to haul up into a tree, so I skinned them on the ground, cut the meat off the bones on the top half of the animals...then rolled them over and did the other side. I guess it was less than a mile back to my vehicle and it was all downhill...but it was wet, the ground was slippery...and my heavy frameless backpack full of meat swung around and made it hard to balance. (The pork had a reasonable flavour, but it was fairly chewy... So I cooked up most of it to freeze for dog tucker).

For the first time ever, I used a pulley to help pull one of the pigs around the side of the hill to get it to a place where I could work on it.

Here's the first pig:

Here's the second one:

Here are the tusks:

 

[SALTY]

Always good to see a BK2 earning its keeps. Thanks for sharing.

 

[James w]

Nice man always nice to see your traps work

Just have to ask was there a Becker at the end of the spear?

 

[BeeKayNutCase]

Coote! Great to see you brother! Man I love your posts. Always a fantastic read..

I'm just over the ditch from you but it's funny how different things are over here. Trapping here almost always ends up with an endangered animal on the end of it, never something feral that you want, like a rabbit, fox or goat.

We don't see many piggies around the coastal areas, they prefer the Inland a lot more. Most guys just head out with armoured dogs and knives when hunting for them rather than trapping. But I really like your style. Especially with the spear! Awesome!

Do you use the BK2 for the skinning and butchering? If so, muchos kudos. Not exactly the first knife I'd grab for such tasks. I'm also curious, are you on the north or south island? I'd love to see some of the south island around the fjords. Looks beautiful.

Anyway, good to see you're still around Coote, I look forward to more 'Pig Trapping with Coote' threads. Brilliant stuff!

Oh, by the way, that has to be the BEST display stand for a knife that I've ever seen! Choice bro!

Springy..

 

[zzyzzogeton]

Great job, coote.

On an equipment note, how about a pic of the spear head. Home built or commercial?

Would in help protect the cord if you added a layer or 2 of electric fence wire over the cord wrapping, so as to reduce the chance of a bite through?

 

[DavidCAndersen]

Came to this thread expecting a BK9-HH

 

[coote]

The spear.... no, there was no Becker tied to the end of a stick. Although I have given the matter a lot of thought, I haven't come up with a simple way of fastening an 'ordinary' knife to a stick that pleases me.

I have a Cold Steel Bushman which fits nicely on a stick (because of its strong hollow handle)... and I've used it several times when I've caught pigs in an area not suitable for firearms. But the spear I used on this particular occasion was one I made after a couple of close encounters with feral goats on my trapline. I figured that I could throw a spear with a good chance of success because sometimes the goats might be just a couple of metres away. But I didn't want to throw my Bushman spear because I might damage it on a rock or something. And while I could carry a rifle (and I sometimes do).... I can work faster if I don't always have to be taking good care of the gun when stopping to work on a trap. I can just drop a spear on the ground instead of looking for a safe, dry place to place the rifle. And it doesn't matter if the spear has rain falling on it for hours... or if it slides down a rocky hillside.

I never did get close enough to a goat to confidently throw the spear, although I had fun practicing. The point is made from a saw blade and it is welded to the steel shaft.

Anyway the spearhead is modelled on an arrow head... which isn't ideal for a thrusting spear because it can be difficult to pull from the animal for a second thrust. I've since made another spear with a more leaf-like blade which should be much better.

The reason I had cord retaining the spear head is so I could undo the cord and pull the spear shaft out of the hole in the wooden handle. My new spear has a steel shaft which is epoxy-glued into the handle. Future spears may also have a steel ferrule at the join to avoid splitting, although a tight cord binding is fine for the job. As suggested, a layer of wire wrapped on top of the cord would provide great protection.

Here is the spear I used (the shaft is a bit bent after its last use):

You guys have a lot of native critters in Australia, and I imagine it would be quite difficult to set a primitive trap that would catch only target animals. The only protected species that I am likely to encounter in my area are our flightless weka birds. These weigh up to about two and a half pounds, and there are heaps of them around. They don't get caught in pig neck-snares, but there is a chance they could catch themselves in a spring-up leg snare. So I keep this in mind when setting spring snares, and I will do things like cutting notches at the mating parts of the trigger to make them less sensitive. And generally I set the spring mechanism to only have enough lift to tighten the snare... rather than lifting the noose a long way off the ground.

Hunting pigs with dogs happens alot over here. While it is wonderful to work with good dogs, and it can be heaps of fun (and a great way to exercise instead of going to the gym)... it can also be expensive if you use electronic tracking gear and have vet bills. Even registering and feeding dogs can cost a lot. I like using traps. You can make a rope snare for very little money and it is hunting for me 24 hours a day.

No... I generally don't use my BK2 for skinning and butchering. Although it works pretty well for the job the way I do it. You know those butchery pictures showing perfect cuts of meat all labelled with their particular names? ... well that isn't how I do most of my pig butchering. I sometimes save a whole leg for roasting or giving away, but generally I bring the meat home already cut from the bones (why carry the bones home). I cut the meat into casserole-sized chunks and freeze it in labelled bags. And generally I don't keep pig skins.... so I just remove them quickly. When making my initial cuts into the skin, I sometimes won't try to insert the knife under the skin in the traditional way.....I just grab a pinch of skin in my left hand, then slide my knife down behind it like I'm peeling a potato. A sharp BK2 does this as well as any sharp knife.

I've had my BK2 for about a year and I love it. But I don't use it all the time. It is a good tool to have when I am going for a walk and might set the odd trap. It is a great chopper and peg-hammer that is also a good knife. I think I have sharpened it just once. I am reluctant to sharpen it because I don't want to shorten its life!! (pathetic, eh). But it will probably outlast me.

I'd love a BK9, but they cost quite a bit down here... and the companies that sell them cheaper in the US sometimes won't ship directly to NZ. When I bought the BK2 I had to get it posted to a shipping company in the US who then forwarded to me. I don't need a BK9, but I would enjoy owning and fondling it... and playing with it in the bush. It is hard to justify the expense right now, but one day when my wife tells me it is time to get something that I want, then I may dig out the credit card. I think the BK9 would make a great pig-trapping companion.

I live at the northern end of the South Island. So it is quite a distance from our fiords... but nearby we do have the Marlborough Sounds which are a great place to be:

 

[cold one]

Great post as always, been awhile since you posted. I quite enjoy reading and getting a glimpse into life over there especially on the hunt. Judging by the size of tusks you had your hands full, exhilarating I bet, good job!

BTW, about what does a BK9 cost over there? You can't not have a 9.

 

[coote]

I have recently seen a BK9 "on special" for NZ$219... reduced from $259. On Amazon there is one on offer for US$97 (which is equivalent to around NZ$138). But that Amazon store won't ship directly to New Zealand, and if they did it might add an extra forty bucks.

I have a bit of cash pocketmoney that I've accumulated that would be fine to spend on cutlery. But having to convert the funds to US dollars... and having to pay shipping etc does make this quite a significant purchase. A ninety dollar knife is something I feel I could do if I could just walk into a store and make the purchase. The timing isn't right for a bigger transaction.

So for now I will just enjoy the posts on this forum and dream.

A BK9 is more of an obsessive want rather than a need for me. The desire to own one has probably sprung from the quest to have the one knife that can do all (which of course is nonsense, but I still seek the fabled blade).

Meanwhile I have plenty of knives that serve me well. Here is a photo of just a few of them:

The top knife is a NZ made 'Victory' brand and has a six inch blade. Excellent knife. The large homebrew semi-leuku style was made from a heavy saw blade and has a seven inch blade. The smaller home-made job has a five inch blade. The little blue knife has no brand name and it cost me about seven dollars from a local internet auction site. The 12 inch Tramontina is an exceptionally handy tool. But I still want a BK9. I'd even buy a 'bare' one and make my own sheath.

 

[coote]

Here's my latest pig spear. It has more of a diamond-shaped point so it should be easier to pull out... and less likely to catch up in the scrub. I also deliberately made the head quite small to make penetration a bit easier to achieve. The head doesn't have to be big if lodged in the right place because there will generally be a lot of movement and the head will slice around inside. There are two layers of tight cord binding around the end of the wooden shaft, and there is epoxy glue smeared over the binding as extra insurance. I could have made a fancier spear, but I'm sure the pigs wouldn't know the difference. And if I ever leave it behind up the hill or give it away, it won't be a big deal.

For the spear shaft I used some steel rod I got from our local recycling centre. In its last life the rod was part of the frame of an old camp stretcher bed. Nice and springy.

And here is the neck snare that captured the second big pig of the day. I got this rope from a company that supplies the fishing industry. It has a nominal diameter of 5mm and the breaking load is meant to be about 460KG. You will see that I have a double eye on this snare. I have had some snares fail at the eye. They appear to get 'sawn' through as the big animals repeatedly pull against the snare. Two eyes provide twice the bearing area and should take longer to abrade thin enough to the point where they give way. I always try to check my traps as soon as I can. Not only is this the humane thing to do, but it also gives the pigs less time to escape. The doubled eye assembly is made from one piece of rope nearly two feet long. I tie a bowline eye at each end of the rope, then double it over to make the eyes line up. I then tie my main rope to this doubled portion. Not that it really matters, but I prefer using a 'Dutch' or 'Cowboy' bowline because this version has the tail of the knot outside of the loop. A conventional bowline has its tail inside the loop.

 

[cold one]

Spear looks good, the shape of the tip should be an improvement for its intended use.

Quite a snare to catch hogs that size but for hunting there I bet it is better than setting up a hog pen/trap.

You still using that covert trail camera?

 

[coote]

I have made a successful pen trap before, but I prefer the lower-tech methods. If the landowner wanted a cage trap, I'd happily help him build it, but it is a lot quicker to set a few snares and I don't have to worry about hauling bait to the trap etc. Yep, still using that trail camera. I only just changed the batteries for the first time about two days ago. It is really economical to run.

We got these shots only a few yards from a friend's house. After the pig made an appearance, I set a Hawaiian style spring-up trap with a trip cord trigger, but the pig didn't oblige us by walking through it. The rabbits and wekas seem to mostly travel under the trip cord without triggering the trap. You might be able to see the trip-cord in the photo with the rabbits.

 

[tanglediver]

Came to this thread expecting a BK9-HH

I don't know what I expected! Here is one example of a boar spear I thought of while reading the thread. I am no hog hunter, but I can appreciate the potential danger!! Yes, (boar) size matters...
[video=youtube;AIXBIsx0NnA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIXBIsx0NnA[/video]

 

[Aikiguy]

Hey coote, thanks for the awesome thread. Always enjoy reading your posts. Those tusks look killer! Great looking spears as well. Thanks for sharing.

 

[cold one]

Cool pics, glad the camera is working good for you, mine will take about 35,000 pics before the batteries go dead.

Some beautiful country where you are, looks to be a great place to live.

Thanks for sharing with us.

 

[DOC-CANADA]

Howdy... First of all... sorry Doc that I didn't wish you a happy birthday at the appropriate time.

No worries, SC. Glad to see you're well and kicking and a constant worry to the NZ pig population. A little while ago, Phil and I got out on my birthday and did a video and Phil asked me that day if I had heard from you lately, so you see, you're still in our thoughts.

Are you using the nail trap trigger at all, anymore?

BTW, I had to get another computer and lost all my email addresses. If you get a chance, give me a shout at: 'primitive at cogeco dot ca' so I can update.

Doc

 

[coote]

Nice that you are still thinking of me occasionally Doc. Please give my regards to Phil. I saw your demo of the portable spring up trap that you credited to an Aussie guy. I'm pretty sure the guy concerned has a YouTube channel called FPS Outback. Here is the link to his video on the trap:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7wYxe5S308

Yes... I am still using variations on the nail trap theme.

Here is a rough diagram of a wire toggle trap that is kinda related to the nail trigger. I hope you can follow it. For simplicity, I've shown a small loop on the trip cord, but in reality I make a big loop so that the loop knot does not catch on the butterfly loop when the cord gets pulled. That way the trip cord is less likely to foul the main noose as it lifts. I also have shown just one snare on the ground.... which can work.... but sometimes I will use two snares to halve the distance that the spring mechanism needs to lift to tighten the nooses. I'm happy to explain further if my explanation isn't clear enough.

Below is a mechanism that I currently favour. It uses a smooth wooden toggle which is attached firmly to the main lifting and snare rope. The toggle in the diagram looks like it is tied directly to the spring cord... and that will work. But generally I have the toggle on a separate cord which I attach to the lift cord with a sliding 'grip' knot like a prusik loop or a an icicle hitch so I can easily adjust its location. If you haven't played with an icicle hitch yet, I can recommend it. It really grips.

While I've had success with trip-cord triggered leg snares, I would generally prefer to use a platform triggered leg snare if possible because:
Only a small noose is needed therefore the lifting device doesn't need to travel far, and
If any animal of a reasonable size steps on the trigger it is extremely likely to get caught, and
One of these traps with a six to eight inch noose can catch any game animal from a rabbit to a big hog. (One size fits all).

I do get a few misses with leg traps though, and I am not certain why. Sometimes something small like a hedgehog with tiny legs might crawl over the trap and just get flicked aside. Also, I'm thinking if a small critter like a rabbit or baby pig has more than one leg in the noose when the trap fires, then the noose won't instantly tighten around one leg, so the animal can fall on its side and maybe kick the noose off.

The trip-cord traps are good for allowing small animals and ground birds to pass under the trip cord without firing the trap. If I'm after a pig that visits at 2 AM, I don't want the trap sprung by a possum at midnight.

With the trip cord traps, you can have a really big noose.... but you have to ensure that the lift mechanism has enough travel to tighten the noose and hold it off the ground a few inches. I kinda like using two nooses... one on either side of the trip wire. I'd generally make these nooses maybe eight inches square. Or maybe six or eight inches wide across the trail.... and ten or twelve inches in length along the trail. It doesn't take as much 'lift' to close these small nooses. Plus I'd prefer the animal to have just one leg in a noose when the trap fires, and the smaller the noose the more likely it will be there is just one leg in it.

If a big pig has its nose to the ground it might trip the trap with its head before stepping in a noose. But if he is trotting along the track with his head in the air, he may hit the trip cord with his chest... and probably have at least one foot in a noose. This uncertainty about where the pig will have its head makes me choose a platform trigger where possible. But where there are a lot of small critters I will often use a trip cord and hope for the best. I am also likely to set more than one trap (I currently have about five spring-ups and five fixed snares set on my neighbour's place).

The problem of having enough lift to close a really big noose can be eased by having the lifting mechanism terminating in a ring or thimble. The noose cord is separate to the lifting cord, but it is anchored to a peg directly under the ring... and it passes through the ring. This method means that for every foot of lift, two feet of rope will be 'tightened'. The peg would have to be really substantial to hold a big animal on its own. I would generally use a stout peg...and tie the noose rope to it... but the tail end of the rope would be extended to tie on to a strong tree or heavy drag nearby. There is a video showing how some Hawaiians make this sort of spring trap for pigs using a big noose here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BIe7xJidIQ

As you can see, I really like this subject.

 

[cold one]

Those are some pretty cool drawings, I like the second setup, looks easy enough to setup. I'll have to save a copy of that for future reference.

 

[nutoknives]

Post brought me back to a day long gone
50 Bucks a Man
End of night , Largest Bagged got the pot, cruel yes but a way for a few bucks
Lost more than I won
Ok with me
Always a way to help a Brother and he got a smile, crabs who knows what but usually 500 or more
Yeh a little different here

 

[coote]

Here's a photo of the double-leg snare I caught the most recent pig with. It corresponds with the sketch in my earlier post... the sketch that shows two nooses. I think it is important to have that stick in between the two nooses, with the nooses laying right up against the stick. This helps to ensure that the animal isn't standing on the rope when the trap fires.